I have a new Wilwood dual master cylinder set up under my dash with new 3/16 brake lines. The system needs fluid and bled. Since the front and back brakes have dedicated master cylinders it seems the best solution would be to have 3 people, one pumping the pedal, one bleeding the rear, and one bleeding the front. If I went that route my number two would be my wife, who doesn't like my car. Number three would be my 5 year old son. So I'm not doing the three person bleed unless I call some friends in, which ain't happening today. So instead I bought one of those hand vacuum pumps to try to do the job myself. I can get fluid to the four corners but I just can't seem to get get air bubbles out of the system. I would not let the master cylinder get less than half empty so I don't think that is the problem. All my fittings seem to be sealing too. I've spent a couple of hours pumping that set up filling the plastic cup with brake fluid and putting it back in the master cylinder and there are still bubbles. I eventually tried hooking up my mini shop vac where the hand pump would be using an adapter to the clear tubing. This seemed to be pretty effective getting the brake fluid through the lines to the capture cup. The rear brakes only had a couple of bubbles after a few minutes. The front brakes were filling the capture cup but still had plenty of bubbles. I'm wondering if the flow is too fast and is causing caviation. I'm also wondering if I'm getting air stuck in high pockets in my brake lines. Anyone have good luck with these one person vacuum bleeders? Is the mini shop vac sounding like a bad idea? I'm thinking I'm going to have to finish bleeding pumping the brakes and putting people on the ends.
Never used them before, but maybe someone here will chip in about the little ball check valve bleeder screws. Just open, pump, close supposedly a one man job
It might be sucking air in the backs of the M/C pistons. Like electricity flow. it goes where there is the least resistance. I can't see what you have for linkage to the twin masters. If it is one that can still work one master if the other fails; I would try this: I bleed by myself. I open one bleeder, either a front or rear, just a 1/4 turn. Now push the pedal down maybe halfway, slowly, but then when you let the pedal come back up, do it super slow. Do that a few times before tightening that bleeder. Do them all, one at a time, as you listen for air bubbles. This always works for me, IF the pedal is released very slowly.
I have never had any luck using a hand bleeder.. It always seems to suck air in around the bleeder fittings once you crack them loose.. Either do the old pump and hold as you work your way around, or open all your bleeders and let them drain.
When the master is higher the brakes, I usually just gravity bleed them. Put a hose on each bleeder with the ends in a jar, open the bleeders and eventually fluid will run out into the jars, as each brake runs fluid, close it's bleeder. This works most every time they are good to go and I don't usually have to go back and re-bleed them. All it takes is four old jars, some hose, and a little patience.
I just got one from speedway and I have the same problem. I have an OT car that I have been having a lot of brake issues with. It seems like it sucks in air from behind the bleeder valve. I wound up doing it the old fashion way with better results. good luck.. it was really a pain in the tail.
When I use the Mytyvac(?) thing I take the bleeder screws out and wipe either neversieze or wheel bearing grease on them so they don't leak the vacumn around the threads when opening them. Then if/when I give up using the pump I just let them gravity bleed one at a time while I watch and have a beer.
Old thread but...... I used my oil changing vacuum tank made for inboard boat motors. It worked awesome! What the gravity guys don't talk about is cleaning up all those drips. Not to mention those drips eat paint (Dot 3). I seriously didn't spill 1 drop on my completely new system. The holding tank capacity far exceeds any hand-held vacuum pump I've ever seen.
I have had 100% success with this simple one man bleeder. A hollow golf tee type fitting sits in the bleeder hoe and the catch can hags on the frame via a magnet. Just pump slowly till no air and nip up the bleeder . It will work on a dual tandem master cyl set up too just do the far rear , near side rear , nip them up and move to the fronts. I
I've solved many a difficult bleeding job with speed bleeders. Heck, you replace your bleeders anyway don't you? May as well use speed bleeders.
That's my experience also. You can try wrapping the threads with teflon tape, and just 'barely' crack the bleeders.
I have used for several years a piece of clear tubing that fits over the bleeder screw, and install a check valve in that line ,stick the end in a pop bottle. The clear line and check valve are Aquarium items available for a couple bucks at a pet store.
I think I read that using the vacuum bleeders you are to put heavy grease on the threads of the bleeder before you start to keep it from sucking in air.
Someone mentioned bench bleeding the master and if that has not been done then it is a must do. I am sorry that your wife won't help you bleed the brakes. That is a damned shame. I have had pretty good luck with my hand pump bleeder but there is another solution that works well and that is to take a pop bottle or a receptacle of some sort and then put a piece of hose over the bleeder nipple and immerse it in some brake fluid in the receptacle. Now crack the bleeder nipple and slowly push the peddle to the floor. Once the tube gets full of fluid you can bleed this way. Another way to bleed them if the master is above the brakes is to fill the master and crack all the valves, slowly wiggle the brake peddle to get it started then leave it alone. Fluid will drain out of the valves and you will need to check the master once in a while but the bubbles will work themselves out with time. usually this takes a while.
Yes the picture is , but it thing from memory I got mine from the place that Rips Every Poor Customer Off REPCO. Or BnT more likely.
haha yeah I heard " rip every person and company off " ...... same everywhere got to go to BNT for some diff - axel seals over the next couple of days and I have to strip the slave cyl to get the axel out so I will ask them about one of those ... Thanks !
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