Technical (Bought) Probably buying a 62 Falcon....

L8 is the block casting behind the down pipe.

Pcv line goes elbow-t and then to Pcv valve and the transmission.

And then it terminates here on the transmission.

 

Found the block castings.

 

tffn.net and ford6.com are 2 good Falcon interest sites . I can add another site to the list - www.falconearlybirds.com - it's smaller , slower but friendly . Be aware all those above strive for "family friendly" language if you join up . You might also think about getting the The Ford Falcon SIX Cylinder Performance Handbook - http://falcon6handbook.com/ - lots of good ideas and information in that .

 

Misread that engine number, methinks. The 1/4 distributor will NOT fit in the later blocks, as the reverse ALSO won't work. My bet?? A 1963 engine/trans combo to replace the earlier engine, for whatever reason. Exhaust manifolds do tend to crack, so someone put on a '68 manifold. And that fuel pump is correct for a '64 for sure, probably '63 as well. Poor idling could also be that Autolite POS that's perched on top of the intake where a real carburetor should be bolted.

Cosmo

 

That's a 3, not an 8. It is a 1963 170.

 

Oops , that number is hard to read ; it is a "3" not an "8" . I have edited above .

 

Having a 200 distributor turned down to the 144/170 size is not even a remote challenge for a machine shop. You could even have the oil pump driveshaft re-sized, so you don't even need to drop the pan.

If budget is the overriding concern, grab a late-70's Duraspark II from the local u-pull yard, from any 200. Get the ignition box too. It is where the distributor wires go. That should be $45-50.

Get a oil pump drive shaft from eBay, for about $15.

Hand both, along with your current distributor and shaft, and ask them to match them.

It will make an infinite difference. I kid you not.

 

Has anyone done that ?

 

That's where I'm headed, but I think I'll go ahead and replace the pump- I'm sure the pan could use a thorough cleaning regardless (this could change)

Any tips on finding a competent machine shop? I've always been a junkyard and parts house kind of guy, or hacked stuff up myself - so I'm totally unfamiliar with the concept. (I have a feeling that Google will be my friend).

That's what I'm wondering. I've found some references to someone planning to have their dizzy turned down, or to ream out the hole, but haven't seen a "yup, I did it".

Next weekend I'll hit up the junk yards and see if I can't find a transmission, a bellhousing, and the duraspark components. Great running motor won't help me much if I can't get that power to the ground ;-)

In the meantime, I'm keeping an eye out for a stock transmission. May enable me to get her on the road sooner and it'd get a bellhousing in hand... it'd also allow me to address more critical items (such as stopping) first.

 

I'll go out on a limb here and suggest that THAT particular piece of machine work is a doddle for ANY machine shop.
Further, I have not yet come across a machine shop that could remotely be called INcompetent, as long as the doors are open.
However, prices will not be cheap, these guys are hyper-precise, and expect, rightly, to be paid for such. If you are uncomfortable with that idea, chuck it up in a drill press and use a file.

Cosmo

 

The wiring for the Dura Spark is simple, too...

My favorite by far.

As far as finding a machinist, Check out where the local hot rod guys gather. Almost always someone has a lathe in their garage and can do the deal for you very quickly and inexpensively. Literally, this job is so easy to do it shouldn't take much time wise to do, and Gimpy is right, the difference will be phenomenal!