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Technical Carburetor sitting

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Villadog, Nov 19, 2014.

  1. Villadog
    Joined: Nov 15, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Villadog

    Hi guys and gals
    I'm new to HAMB and have my first question. Just bought a 1952 ford f1 that had been sitting without being turned on for 12 years. Motor in it is a ford 400 from a 74 ltd. I changed out all gaskets and spruced up engine for light cruzing. Carb is a Holley and looks ok , I guess I need some opinions . Can I just clean carb and crank the motor (0$)or rebuild the carb(200$) or just buy a new one (265$). Any help will be appreciated
     
  2. 3spd
    Joined: May 2, 2009
    Posts: 557

    3spd
    Member

    Did you have the carb apart? I usually pull them apart and clean them out, make sure all the passages are clear and the gaskets/diaphragms are all good, then throw it back on and fire it up. If it leaks or otherwise shows signs of needing a rebuild I then shell out the cash for a rebuild kit, which should be $40 or less.

    Ryland
     
  3. Sitting that long and with the crappy gas you will probably need to rebuild the carburetor or replace. HRP
     
  4. bonzo-1
    Joined: Oct 13, 2010
    Posts: 342

    bonzo-1
    Member

    Sitting that long I would worry more about the fuel tank than the carb. Clean the tank out flush the lines and give it a try. If it leaks then rebuild or replace. If it runs good add some seafoam to the tank and drive it.
     
    Boryca likes this.

  5. Villadog
    Joined: Nov 15, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Villadog

    Thanks bonzo but the tank is new and all lines have been cleaned. But your right I'm going to clean carb and add seafoam to the new gas
     
  6. 58custom
    Joined: Jan 1, 2009
    Posts: 398

    58custom
    Member

    The accelerator pump diaphragm will harden when left like that, especially if it was old to begin with. Depending on the type the gasket between the metering block and body can shrink. Best thing is to get a kit, replace the forward gaskets and pump diaphragm, replace the needle valves and the bowl screw gaskets and try it. I will assume the gasket for the rear bowl & metering plate will be OK, but that is no guarantee. If you are not keen on doing your own rebuild, just go for new. Best way to start if you are not too carb savvy.

    Having typed that, you can simply try adding some fuel to the forward float bowl. No more than a cup, pour it through the forward vent tube (the tube that sticks up at the front of the choke housing). Be careful, keep rags handy and don't spill it. Plan it out. Anyways, any leaks will tell you the carb is not good to use. No visible leaks? Open the throttle and look into it with a flashlights. Leaks bad. No leaks? Try manually operating the accelerator pump. Does it squirt? If so, add gas to the rear bowl and again check for leaks. If it is not leaking, See if the engine will fire and run. No squirt? Confidently declair the carb a bad carb and don't use it. That's a simple, logical series of checks before you move on to the "pro rebuild vs. new" question. If you do manage to get the car running, but the carb works poorly, that is not unexpected but at least you can run the engine and verify that it has eight pistons connected to the crank. Fun for an afternoon.

    The Ford 400 Cleveland is a damn good engine.
     
  7. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,369

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Most of what has been suggested assumes it is a Holley 4V. The '74 400s all came from the factory with Autolite 2Vs. If that is still the carb then you should be able to get it ship shape easily. I love the Autolites. They are way easier to work on compared to the Holley. Remove the top of the carb. Remove the booster, being careful not to lose the accellerator pump weight and check ball. Remove the float assembly. Replace the accellerator diaphragm. Remove and inspect the power valve - check it with a vacuum pump for proper operation. Check for wear on the throttle shaft - discard if it needs repair - these carbs are cheap to get. Clean all the small passages with aerosol carb cleaner, blow dry, re-assemble. Have fun.
     
  8. Villadog
    Joined: Nov 15, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Villadog

    Thanks guys, all the info has helped. Yes the carb is aftermarket and was new when installed 12 years ago. I will take it apart hesitantly and change gaskets
     
  9. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,305

    missysdad1
    Member

    The main problem you will encounter with a Holley that has sat and dried out is the power valve and accelerator pump diaphragms will have hardened and cracked, causing the carburetor to leak fuel like a sieve both inside and outside. This will cause it to flood badly and not start AND/OR TO LEAK GAS ALL OVER THE OUTSIDE WHICH CAN EASILY IGNITE AND CAUSE A MAJOR ENGINE FIRE.

    Assuming it's not damaged, filthy or corroded, your Holley vacuum-secondary 4bbl carburetor does not require rocket science to rebuild/repair. First step is to remove it from the car and wash it all down with a spray can of carburetor cleaner.

    Then, as has already been mentioned, pull off the front bowl and metering plate. Don't lose the gaskets on the four long screws that hold these parts in place. Clean these both carefully with spray carburetor cleaner inside and out, paying special attention to the jets.

    Replace the power valve (it just screws into the metering plate) and the accelerator pump diaphragm (4 screws). Check to be sure the float moves freely and hangs about horizontal with the bowl held upside down. Use more spray carb cleaner on the needle and seat. Then put it all back together using two new gaskets.

    Put the carb back onto the motor and fire it up. You can pull and service the secondary metering plate later - don't forget!
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2014

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