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Projects my first project thread, 52 Desoto

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BRAINS!, Jun 2, 2013.

  1. BRAINS!
    Joined: Mar 11, 2013
    Posts: 272

    BRAINS!
    Member

    Got my block back, Dana did a top notch job, had to get a sleeve in one of the cylinders, surprisingly not one of the ones that had a stuck piston, bored 30, painted and like new, gonna be buying a set of pistons soon and then will be able to start assembly!
     

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  2. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,723

    George
    Member

    After finding out how much it needed to be bored you should have got the pistons so each cyl could be bored to match the specific piston going in it. Haven't looked back to see if it has been mentioned, but..the low deck DeSotos have low advertised C/R & the actual C/R may be even lower. While costing more some 10:1 custom pistons may be a wise investment( assuming you didn't already get a cam matched to the low OEM C/R).
     
  3. BRAINS!
    Joined: Mar 11, 2013
    Posts: 272

    BRAINS!
    Member

    I will definitely be purchasing a set of custom higher compression pistons.
     
  4. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,175

    73RR
    Member

    Hopefully the shop 'guy' was smart enough to follow protocol and only do a final rough cut so the holes can be honed to match. If he has rebuilt more than a couple of engines he should have it figured out.;)

    .
     
  5. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,723

    George
    Member

    hopefully:)
     
  6. my47buicksuper
    Joined: May 23, 2013
    Posts: 296

    my47buicksuper
    Member
    from sunny fl.

    Happy to read that your running the org hemi it would be a shame to put a non mopar motor in the car good luck and looks good so far did you decide on a rear yet ?
     
  7. BRAINS!
    Joined: Mar 11, 2013
    Posts: 272

    BRAINS!
    Member


    I have not decided on a rear end yet, I was maybe going to just run the stock one, is that bad? Im not planning to race it or anything


    I have never heard of honing the cylinders to match the pistons and havent done it on any of the motors I have built in the past. Is it going to be bad if I dont? The guy at the shop didnt mention anything about it and he has been building engines for a long time. Ive done a little research but most info I have found on the web only mentions smaller engines like 2 strokes and 4 bangers
     
  8. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,723

    George
    Member

    A newer axle eliminates the problem working on brakes, and gives you modern brakes vs the old style on there now. Machineing to each piston takes care of differences in piston to wall clearance due to Manufacturing Tolerances.
     
  9. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,723

    George
    Member

    It will probably be fine. All OEM engines are "within tolerances" when they are assembled & go typically 100K. some engines have better machining reps that others. Hemis are usually pretty good, but..one was found to have decks unequal in distance from the crank centerline & decks not square to the centerline front to back, and top to bottom. Owner probably never noticed but the engine would have had higher C/R in the cyls @ one end than the other. And higher C/R on the deck that's closer to the centerline than the other side.
     
  10. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,175

    73RR
    Member

    Major red flag.
    All pistons come out of the lathes with a +/- tolerance.
    Did your shop guy make every hole exactly 'x.xx' dia? or do they vary a few thou from one to the next?
    What about the pistons? When they come out of the box will they be all exactly .xxx" undersize or will they vary by a couple thousandths from one to the other?
    The holes and the pistons can all vary so what happens to the tolerances?

    Even if you are buying custom forgings (which are 10x more accurate than castings) you still need to maintain the proper piston to wall clearance. Too tight and it might not even turn over and too loose and it might be a mosquito fogger....

    .
    Ask around.
     
  11. BRAINS!
    Joined: Mar 11, 2013
    Posts: 272

    BRAINS!
    Member

    Thanks for the input guys, I will have to do some more research. As far as the cylinders all being the same size I would imagine they are considering he bored it and installed the sleeve to match but when you deal with thousands of an inch I guess there could be a differences. Like I said before Ill have to do some more asking around and research. And I guess I will be swapping out the rear end then? Any suggestions on which one might be best? Really appreciate all the info.
     
  12. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,175

    73RR
    Member

    Explorers and Cherokees are popular and usually cheap at the pic-n-pull just due to sheer numbers. Jeep uses a Dana axle, #30, 35, or 44, all good for street use.
    The 8.8 is a stout axle and many have disc brakes and some sort of traction-lock.
    Everything you need to know about the Ford axle is here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/axle_codes.shtml

    Double check the width of your stock piece against the potential donor.

    .
     
  13. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,723

    George
    Member

    The 65-67 (or so) Mopar C body axle bolts into quite a few years of Mopars, probably yours also. There's a number of others that will probably fit, 71-3 Mustang (with a spring perch relocation) and other cars.
     
  14. BRAINS!
    Joined: Mar 11, 2013
    Posts: 272

    BRAINS!
    Member

    I found a 727 that was rebuilt in 1987 and has been in a sealed crate. It was a govt rebuild for military trucks. Think it is fine as is?

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  15. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,175

    73RR
    Member

    Verify that it is for a small block. Check my web pages for ID help.
    http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/?page_id=744


    .
     
  16. BRAINS!
    Joined: Mar 11, 2013
    Posts: 272

    BRAINS!
    Member

    I picked up the trans on sat. It is indeed for a small block and it basically brand new. Seals look great. Tagged and stamped with date and location of rebuild. Will post pics later

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  17. BRAINS!
    Joined: Mar 11, 2013
    Posts: 272

    BRAINS!
    Member

    Got my pistons rings and rods today! Everything looks great, very happy. I will be starting to assemble very soon, also pictured is the rebuilt trans that i picked up a few months ago, hope to have the motor and trans in it by the end of the summer


    14106607359_6e66dfe2d4_b.jpg 14106610229_5d4365fa83_b.jpg 14106649428_7d94857808_b.jpg 14291323642_7d7134c783_b.jpg
     
  18. BRAINS!
    Joined: Mar 11, 2013
    Posts: 272

    BRAINS!
    Member

    Got the block up on the stand and am going to start assembly this evening or on saturday!


    14318410256_27b6958c61_b.jpg 14340754464_cb5a37ab2f_b.jpg 14340755664_9d57b9aba7_b.jpg
     
  19. BRAINS!
    Joined: Mar 11, 2013
    Posts: 272

    BRAINS!
    Member

    Well I got the pistons and bottom end all put together. Just ordered an oil pump and getting a timing chain next week. I am wondering if I need the full flow oil block. I am not converting the oil filter and I am finding mixed information on the interwebz

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  20. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,723

    George
    Member

    If you're staying with the cartridge filter you need to keep the OEM set up. That is an anti-drain back check ball. It's not a bypass.
     
  21. BRAINS!
    Joined: Mar 11, 2013
    Posts: 272

    BRAINS!
    Member

    Awesome! Thanks for the info

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  22. BRAINS!
    Joined: Mar 11, 2013
    Posts: 272

    BRAINS!
    Member

    Well I got the bottom end all buttoned up finally! Im getting pretty excited to get this thing going, I realized after the fact that I forgot to put the ring pictured on, it goes btwn the timing gear and balancer, Is it going to be a big deal if I leave this off? I would imagine the balancer will hold the timing gear in place just fine
    15744964066_bb5d3a939a_k.jpg 15149256943_d9b7f20191_k.jpg 15770232722_c68b025ada_k.jpg 15583503007_dea1ce31d4_k.jpg 15583505377_477f91f6d1_k.jpg
     
  23. F.C.Fury
    Joined: Sep 18, 2012
    Posts: 66

    F.C.Fury
    Member

    Yep I'm going to be watching this one!
     
  24. lolife
    Joined: May 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,125

    lolife
    Member

    I call that an oil slinger. I think it just keeps more oil on the chain, and away from the seal.
     
  25. Brand Apart
    Joined: Jan 22, 2011
    Posts: 808

    Brand Apart
    Member
    from Roswell GA

    yea, I hear the oil slinger is necessary but have no first hand experience to verify either way.
     
  26. BRAINS!
    Joined: Mar 11, 2013
    Posts: 272

    BRAINS!
    Member

    Yeah I ended up opening her back up and putting the slinger on

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  27. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,175

    73RR
    Member

    ...good....

    .
     
  28. BRAINS!
    Joined: Mar 11, 2013
    Posts: 272

    BRAINS!
    Member

    I am wondering if I can buy a plug wire kit so I can still use my original porcelain spark plug tubes pictured or if I am going to have to cut apart wires to make them work, I think they OG ones are awesome....I am also wondering what is the best dizzy to run, part of me is leaning towards a SBC HEI but im not totally sure, also does anyone have any experience using a SBC power steering pump on a Desoto, seems like it should be too hard to make it work
    15821231381_9cb20a64b6_k.jpg
     
  29. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,723

    George
    Member

    On my Chr I use generic Accel wires, don't know it the porelin would fit over the rubber boots or not.As far as P/S pump, what P/S system are you using? Extend the shaft on the LA electronic dizzy is an easy thing to do, chevy works with an adaptor.
     
  30. BRAINS!
    Joined: Mar 11, 2013
    Posts: 272

    BRAINS!
    Member

    Planning on rocking the stock P/S system and just removing the stock generator driven pump and splicing in a SBC pump long as I can get the pulleys to line up
     

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