After notching, how are you running your exhaust?

Ordering my notch today for my 54 Chevy Belair and I have done my research on that. The thing I haven't seen much of is how people are running their exhaust. It doesn't look like many are running in over the rear end, but it doesn't seem right to me to be running it under the axel. Pictures would be appreciated.


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x2... I have been trying to decide on this same subject. I have been looking for good ideas in other threads, but haven't seen a lot of options specifically called out or shown in their pics.

 

Try as I might, there just wasn't room over the axels after I notched the frame to get the rear of the 48 chevy PU down, particularly given the close proximity of the gas tank to the axels under the rear bed. At first I just ran about 18" of pipe straight back from the mufflers and turned the ends down. Problem was I was getting some exhaust back in the cab despite really good insulation on the floors.

So, I cut the turned down ends off and welded exhaust pipe flanges to them. You can get them at any exhaust shop or parts store. I used the flanges with two bolt holes, one on each side of the flange. I did the same to the ends of two long straight pieces of exhaust pipe and, using a gasket like you would use coming off your manifolds, bolted the straight pipes to the pipes coming out of the mufflers. If I need to remove the tail pipes I just undo the 2 bolts that hold the flanges together. Thus, the pipes run under the rear end instead of over it. NOW, BE CAUTIONED, you have to make sure that when you jack the vehicle up or put it on a lift that the rear doesn't drop down so far as to put weight/pressure on the pipes running under it. My rear just barely touches the pipes when it is on the lift. If I needed to take the rear end out, I would just undo the flanges and the tailpipe hangers at the rear and drop the pipes.

 

Thanks for the reply fat47. Do you have any pictures? My big concern is as you mentioned, the exhaust hitting the rear end if mounted below. I'm hoping a few more guys check in with their pics.


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I had to run under the rear (it is flanged to be removed if i need to) on my 51, on my 53 wagon I currently have it turned down and outwards slightly just before the rear.

 

I used to have a 52 Chevy that was lowered but not notched. I ran it under the axle, made things a lot simpler. I got some weld on flanges and gasket to make it easier to remove if I ever had to. Never had any issues with it run this way. Don't have any pics from underneath but heres a pic of the exhaust. Theres more in my albums.

 

I took the easy way out and only run my lake pipes.

 

This is great guys. Thanks for the help.


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My 50 fleetline has 3 in. Lowering blocks and the pipes ran under the rear end .Not the way I wanted them so I made my own pipes from 90s 45s and straight pipe they run over the rear end beside the frame . The pipes are solid mounted to the car from the muflers back . In front of the mufflers are flex pipes the type from new cars to allow the front part of the pipes to move with the engine have worked fine all summer about 3500 miles No vibration or anything Also checked the pipes for heat next to frame and close to floor not too hot at all . Can post pictures in a couple of weeks when I put car away for winter ......


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No real way to run it over the rear when you get it low enough with a step notch it will hit the shocks . I ran it under the rear with enough clearance for axle drop and it worked out well .

 

Without having done the notch just yet, I guess I'm concerned about scrub line issues running it under. So how do I I about that? Mock it up when it is on the ground or aired up?


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I used a drive on lift so everything was where it would be when it was on the pavement. You could achieve the same thing by driving it up on ramps.

 

Ditto on my F1 pickup. I ran under the rear and all the way to the bumper, I like pipes out the back. Tried to go over the axle but pipes had to be small to do that and ended up too close to the bed wood on my pickup.

 

when mocking it up, air it up (do not want the pipes to hit the rearend when all the way up)., then check it all the way down to see how low it the pipes sit.

 

You've all been a lot of help. As always, it's probably going to make more sense when I get the notch done and am under there. I like to have a plan ahead of time and this board helps that out for sure.


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running pipes under the rear end looks like ass.

 

How so? What do you suggest? Why bother posting something without a suggestion?


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my suggestion is to run the pipes over the rear end. I'm working on a 1951 Chevrolet that came to me with a notched frame and 4 link and a shitty trunk floor with the Mustang tank. I have ripped out the remains of the shit floor and am redoing the whole thing with wheel tubs and a proper floor. there is plenty of room in there for exhaust, though the owner wants to run it under for reasons only he understands.

since you haven't started yet now is the time to plan ahead for exhaust.

 

Appreciated. I do want to run it over the top if possible so if you have any pictures, it would help immensely.


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My thoughts were that since the notch is the same thickness as the rail, there should be enough room to follow that same path with the exhaust (perhaps with some heat shield between exhaust and trunk) ... this thread sounded like a great way to prove/disprove my assumption! The main thing I hoped to find in this thread was how everyone is exiting the exhaust out the back... since dropping all the way down would keep you from exiting under the bumper.

49ratfink, do you have any pics of how you would propose that owner run the exhaust by chance?

 

I know some guys run it through the bumper. It's a matter of missing the 4 link, which I'll do later, and clearing the upper notch tower bar I was planning on running.


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""49ratfink, do you have any pics of how you would propose that owner run the exhaust by chance?""

no, this car will not be done that way. just saying you need to plan the space for the pipes now. I think if I were going to build one of these for myself I would put the frame notches in, set up the 4 link and then build my floor/notch cover as well as the tubes that will go from side to side that support the notch in a way that accommodates the pipes.

 

If your car is not running bags, the exhaust will hit the shocks if they are in the stock location. As far as it looking bad ,there is no way to see it in less you were just run over. There will be enough room for the pipes not to be below the scub line.

 

Do not run it under the rearend, in the long run you will be much happier...

 

So does anyone have any pictures of how they're running theirs? I'm about to be in the same situation

 

Just posted this in another thread. To avoid mashing the exhaust tips, notch the bumper:

RussB photo

 

I think now you guys know why people ran Lake pipes and all sorts of side exhausts.

 

This is what I recommend, (I am currently doing my bagged shoebox


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I am cutting a three inch hole in the frame rails,to get the pipe to the outside of the frame. Then I will follow the frame and notch to the back of the car without interfering with my fuel tank or bag set up. The way to do the frame properly is to make 1/4" flat plate (roughly 3"x8")with your 3" hole in it and weld it to both sides of the frame. Then cut the hole out of the frame and weld in a piece of pipe. I know it's a lot of work but will be very clean!


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@Leadsled 49 I thought about the same thing. Let's see some pics when you're done. I'll try to take some pics this weekend as well. I did cut the one exhaust so see where it would land and I'm thinking it will interfere with the 4-link. It's tight in there.


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