Here's a pic of some missing teeth... Since part source was asked, in case anyone cares, here's a list of what I've picked up for the car and the source. I haven't installed the Cooling Components fan yet as I don't have the car in my garage. I can link to specific parts if requested. radiator 590 shoebox-central.com wiper motor 259.45 https://www.newportwipers.com/products.php?product_id=10080 12v conversion 592.75 http://www.vintageautogarage.com/19...ck-6V-12V-Conversion-p/f4953612k.htm?CartID=2 (Included in conversion kit. optional 100 amp alternator with 3/8" pulley,alternator bracket, Ignition Coil, Headlight Relay, Horn Relay, Oil Gas Temp Gauge Regulator (allows use of original 6v gauge sending units), Start Solenoid, DA plug and 10 AWG alternator to battery connection wire. Set of Instructions. ADDED heater motor reducer, bulbs, pertronix, battery cables, radio reducer, vreg wires- several parts not used due to new wiring harness) glove box liner 30 shoebox-central.com dash knobs 47.5 shoebox-central.com window crank 40 shoebox-central.com Thermostats 24 shoebox-central.com seatbelts 44.8 seatbeltsplus.com offset water necks for compressor 60 speedway acorn covers 40 speedway plug wire kit 35 speedway wire loom 50 speedway radiator dress hoses 50 speedway 4 wiper blades 74.5 shoebox-central.com 12v battery 125 autozone 20 circuit wiring harness 165 speedway radiator hose w 2 90's 15 autozone 1950 license plate 50 ebay evapo-rust 96 o'reilly clutch/plate/to 247.79 macs electric fan 355 CCI-1770 plus 70A relay and temp sender
Thanks bud I couldn't seem to find a kit like that for some reason . My 52' has been sitting for the past few months but about to get a shop to workin so hopefully post pics soon . Thanks for the help
I'll be sure to keep that in mind, but the old cap definitely was not going on the neck of the new radiator and the local parts place started at 13#... I didn't have much choice if I wanted it to drive that night. Since the 13# was recommended when I ordered the radiator I figured I should listen but if it's getting too warm maybe I'll find a new style 4# cap. Which reminds me, anyone in Phoenix want the old radiator?? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Looks like things are coming along for you. Nice car. Are those radial tires????......if so, they usually make it harder to turn when at a stop or moving slowly (like in your driveway). At least they did on my car.
Thanks, I'm anxiously looking forward to getting all of these bugs worked out so it can be a reliable driver. I want it safe enough to load the kids up and go anywhere in town without having to worry about breaking down. They're radial, yes. I can't bring myself to run bias- may look better sometimes but I want the modern tech. I've gotten a bit more comfortable with the weight and lack of power steering, I back it in and flip it around 90 degrees to park in an offset 1 car garage... Each time I do it, I'm getting faster.
Looks like a good shoebox thread to watch. I have been off line for a few months, but now back and ready to read and give my 2cents worth now and then.
Is your 1st / Reverse slider gear damaged too, or is it just your cluster gear? There are several cluster gears on that auctionsite. You would need to confirm the tooth count matches.
Yep, the slider is damaged too... but nowhere near as bad as the cluster gear (just a chipped tooth or 2, nothing missing yet). I have a new 01A-7100 on its way, should have both to the tranny shop by Wed. I'm out ~$250 between those two gears, another $250 on the clutch... a new C4 with a warranty sure sounds better every time I click or order a new part for the old setup. From what I've read on the parts blowaparts, WT253-8A/8A-7113 is the cluster gear and 01A-7100 is the slider. These are the parts in the mail to me... so they better be right lol. It's getting dangerously close to the GoodGuys show here on 11/14, I don't care if I have to push this damn car down to the grass... it's going in that show!
OhhhhKay... down for yet another week waiting for parts again. Shop went to drop in the WT253-8A/8A-7113 cluster gear... turns out I needed the 1-1/8” large bore gear #68-7113. The parts blowaparts don't help you identify the bore of the gear. The tranny shop's parts vendors came up with nothing... so I called Van Pelt's who knew exactly what I was dealing with and will ship by monday. I should've called him first instead of researching on my own, I know better. Fortunately I can adapt the 8A-7113 to my tranny by using the parts below (or buy the ebay auction # 141395951997): #8A-7115 spacer, countershaft needle bearings #8A-7121-S needle bearings (22 each end) 2 # 351529-S washers, outboard of needle bearings #B-7119 thrust washer, front #8M-7128 thrust washer, thin, rear outer #8M-7129 thrust washer, thick, rear inner
It looks like a wire from the starter switch goes to the gauge cluster and one goes to the horn relay. Possible defective horn relay/horn or shorted wire in horn circuit? Shoebox Fords are Old School Cooool!
Nope, not to my knowledge- what makes you say that? It starts fine since I rewired the whole car... horn works fine, nice and loud. I startled the driver in front of me that wouldn't go on green when I was driving to the tranny shop. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
According to the original wiring diagram in the back of the green bible it shows three wires coming from the starter relay. The yellow wire goes to the gauge cluster and the black wire goes to the horn relay. Does your battery still go dead since you rewired it? It also shows a red/blue wire from the starter relay going to the starter button. Just trying to help.
Disregard my last two replies. My bad. I just realized you are way past the wiring problem you had. I only read your first page and replied at the bottom of that page without realizing you have a page 2,3,4 etc. I feel real special.
33 days and another grand later I have it back in my garage and out of the tranny shop. Just in time to get it detailed for the show tomorrow morning. The shop rushed? it out the door for me so I can still get it ready. The clutch needs to be adjusted further and they broke an exhaust manifold to pipe stud so there's a noticeable leak under acceleration but it accelerated nicely. Things to get finished after this weekend when the time crunch is over. If you'll be at the Goodguys sw nats this weekend come find me! I'll get to see some people I haven't seen in years, should be great! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Thanks! Always appreciated! I've been having a blast bombing around in it... Just got the seat belts in so the kids can join me. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I've still got to figure out what belts I want to put in the rear of my Shoe . I want to put 3-point belts in the back so my 6-y/o daughter can be plenty safe riding along . What belts are you running ?
I debated going straight to 3points, but both of mine are still in carseats... It'll be a few years before they're ready for just lap belts. Arizona sun is hell on fabric and belts, I figure I will replace the rears around then anyway just for safety. I always preferred the aircraft style latches but those aren't optimal for child seats so I have seatbeltsplus push buttons in the rear and aircraft up front. If the child seats aren't in the car at the show I'll tuck the rears under the backrest. I thought long and hard about going 3pt up front but wasn't prepared to cut into the pillar yet. Again, probably do that soon just for safety. 2 point is better than zero points at the moment, but before anyone lectures I am fully aware of the risks... It's on the short-term to-do's! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
this reminds me of a lot of stuff i had to do. lookin' great man. and i love the sound of a flatty. im surprised how fast you swapped her over to 12v. hope to see ya round PHX someday
Having a blast driving it around town but I'm officially sick of my door latches and having to slam the door several times to shut them properly. Anyone have a suggestion on a source for non-bearclaw latches? I'm not ready to shave the handles, nor am I ready to start cutting to install the bear claws. I'll call shoebox-central in a bit, but the site didn't have any... The door gaps seem to be acceptable when they're shut, but I'm sure my hinges are some percentage of shot just like everyone elses... I suppose I should to both hinge and latch at the same time, I'll dig up the old threads on hinge replacement today... I'm liking this fix, should be pretty quick: http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/hinge-rebuild.html
Had a bit to troubleshoot the doors, last time I shut the drivers door there was a really bad rattle... That made me a bit nervous so I took the door panel off this am. Good news is nothing came off the latch, bad news is that I need a new channel for the glass. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
You should come join us on the new years cruise. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/953508/ phoenix New years day cruise
It has crossed my mind... I am Oncall 24/7 and technically work on 1/1, don't know yet if I can get backup all day. Would be fun though! I've never stressed the motor for that long... Wonder if she'd even make it to Prescott?? Downhill would be no problem, getting there may be a different story!! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
So, while researching bear claw latches, I see a few threads about dual arm latches. This is just what I'm ultimately looking for, I'd prefer not to shave the handles and still have them work. I did see the kits from Trique, looks like the 53 pickups went to push button- my question is to any 53-56 f100 owners that may happen to also know the shoebox (do these bodies of knowledge often cross over??): any guesses on how much I would need to rework their kit based on the pics they show?? I'm sure it COULD work, maybe I'm just being lazy again and should do the fab myself. http://www.triquemfg.com/altman-eas...rd-f-100-truck-for-use-with-exterior-handles/ Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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