Hey guys I'm going with a 230 700r in my 41 chevy coupe. What's the best thing to do as far as the tour tube driveline. I've never messed with one of those before. Thanks, Tim
Will have to ditch it and get a 67-69 camaro or a 68-78 nova rear end they fit the best,but a 4x4 s10 blazer rear fits good to and a little more common these days . You will have to address the spring issue.the locator pin is offset on closed drive line rear springs.speedway makes an offset lowering block that adjusts or change springs that is what i did 55 chevy i think are what i used on my 47 sedan and had a new drive shaft made
You MUST toss the torque tube setup for a later model rear and prop shaft. A '55 to '57 rear works very well, too, for your application.
Wow, that's not what I wanted to hear. That may put the brakes on this project, or at least make me change directions. Thanks guys
Think about it, getting rid of the enclosed drive will do wonders for your project. The parts needed are readily available and not that expensive. The swap can be done in an afternoon without any special tools or welding. The gear ratios in the old driveline pretty much limits you to a top speed around 50MPH with the engine screaming.
You're right aagie that's why I wanted to go with 700 trans. Around here older car rear ends are few and far between, and that might be a problem.
I have a 54 235 six in my 41,and dont mind the torque tube at all, I still manage to get 16mpg. And my car was built for cruisin the back roads.I HATE the interstate. Besides my old girl is a survivor! whats the rush? I've been drivin her for 20 years this way.
It is inconceivable to me that you say, on the one hand, that you are replacing the engine and transmission, and on the other, changing the rear axle assembly somehow makes this project undo able. That reaction makes no sense at all. Unless it is a money issue, changing the rear axle assembly is probably the easiest operation of all. There are more sources of suitable rear axle assemblies than the few named, though they are the more common models used in years past. There are Ford and Mopar axles that will fit equally well, the main difference being wheel bolt pattern. But, with the engine and trans you are installing, I doubt you would keep the original weak brakes in the front end, or would you? If changing them to better units, the wheel bolt pattern will change there too and could be matched to the rear axle choice. I am sorry to sound harsh, but your comment suggests to me that you may not fully understand the process you are doing........or perhaps are having done by some one else. For example, the 700R4 trans (or even the better choice, a 2004R) will require the transmission support crossmember to be reworked or replaced. But you need to understand, upgrading any major system in an old car typically requires several other systems be ungraded accordingly. To do otherwise can undermine the time and money invested as an incomplete or incompatible combination of parts likely will not deliver satisfactory results. Ray
Smokedl.........I think you are missing the point of the replies. It isn't that anyone one is saying a torque tube driveline is inherently a bad thing. What we are saying is, that the torque tube driveline is totally incompatible, mechanically, with the 700R4 transmission output shaft configuration. Actually, the stock TT gear ratio is the least of the problem, since it is an OD trans....but that is moot in this case. Ray
As stated, the hard part is the engine/transmission swap, but you will probably have to fabricate a new driveshaft, which does take it out of the 'afternoon project with no special tools' category.
I used a Mopar 8-3/4" in a customer's freshly painted '41 Chevy coupe. Had the darndest time centering the rear axle ass'y, when placed dead center the left tire was 3/8" from the driver's fender well, and the right side was 1"+! More measuring denoted one side had a wider '46-'48? fender than the flatter '41! Great rear end to use. (with '41 fenders!) 4.5" bolt pattern, same as late Ford...
Well all I was after to begin with was an overdrive transmission. In the C-10 I did a few years back that worked great, and I didn't have to do anything but have the drive shaft made to the correct length. The reason I was going with the 230 was I found one with very low miles for $100.00 less than the adapter plate I was going to have to buy from Langdon to use the 700 with the 235 that's in the car now. I don't have the deepest pockets in town, so I was planning on doing one thing at a time. If I was to buy the motor I spoke of I wouldn't have $500 bucks in the motor, and tranny. As far as brakes go, down the road I'd like to upgrade them as well, it just seems like doing this little engine tranny swap is snowballing fast into a very costly deal. As far as rear ends go I guess I could call a couple junk yards, and see what's out there. Craiglist has nothing. I would like the wheels to all be alike as far as bolt pattern goes, and going to a newer rear end will make that impossible at least until the brakes get done in front. See the snowball effect. You guys have given me a lot to think about, and I appreciate all of your help. Keep the ideas coming. Thanks, Tim
As you can see by now, it isn't the engine you want to use, but the open drive transmission that is the stumbling block. Although, given the economics of the situation, I do agree the 230 is a good choice to incorporate with the 700R4 tranny. And, if your 235 is in good shape, selling it to offset some expenses is feasible. Lot's of people with 216s that would like a 235. Hope you get this worked out. It will make a nice cruiser. Ray
If a 55-57 Chevy would work as posted earlier on your thread a Ford Explorer should work. I have seen several 55 Chevy's that the poster said they used the Explorer rear. That would give you a limited slip and a good ratio. You could also go either drum or disc rear brakes. These are around $100 here at the local pull a part and there are many to choose from.
I just did the exact same swap in the exact same car...I used a '56 Chevy rear end and a Chassis Engineering rear end kit. It was BOLT IN. You will have to have a new driveshaft fabricated. I think automatics suck, so I put a T5 in mine, and I'm very happy with the results. Put a "Wanted" ad in Craig's List and I'm sure that you'll find a 55 - 57 rear, as they're fairly common, just not widely advertised. FWIW, the front disc conversion kit cost about $250, and it can be used with the stock single pot MC, although I'd strongly consider a dual pot MC for safety's sake. If you can't afford the Chassis Engineering kit, you CAN use the stock leafs, although you'll have to make an offset plate to center the wheels in the wheel opening. I used the stock springs in my '53 Chevy 1/2 truck, and I made an offset plate out of a 3/8 x 2 piece of band steel. Good luck. Chris
Width makes sense. Where is the proper place to measure? From backing plate to backing plate on the inside?
Ok I just read you measure a Ford 9" width from one outside axle flange to the other. Is this correct on all rear end width measurements?
Yes, WMF (wheel mounting flange) to WMF. The Explorer rear is right at 61". I used a 2000 model under my '40 Chevy sedan and it fits perfectly. All I did was replace the spring perches to center the axle and check the pinion angle for 3# up at ride height. The rear end came with 3.73 gears and posi from the local wrecking yard for $150. If you go that route get the U-bolts and brackets too. The 8.8 housings are 3.25" in diameter and most others are 3.00". One other note, the Ford pinion is offset about 2" and your driveshaft will angle to one side. It doesn't hurt a thing.
I found a 55' Chevy complete from drum to drum in southern Ohio. The guy says it's a posi, and he want's $400 for it. Is that a good price, or should I go with something newer like the explorer?
Two comments....the Explorer is just under 60"....59.75" to be exact.....but that is secondary to the fact that it fits, no matter it's width. I mention this just so that it serves as an accurate point of reference. A '55 Chevy rear end is neither inherently valuable nor a particularly strong rear end to begin with. In addition, you have no idea if the posi is in need of overhaul, much less the bearings, seals, etc.. You could spend $400 to start, only to end up spending that much more to make it useable. With an Explorer 8.8. 3.73 posi, and maybe disc brakes, for $150....you get very stout, modern rear axle and even if it needs some 'refreshment', you are $250 ahead of the game at the git go. Ray
Well, if I'm understanding this right I can use pretty much any rear end as long as it's close to 60.250 width that my current one is. Sorry to beat a dead horse I just want o get this right the first time. Thanks guys
I put a 57 chevy rear end in my 48 chevy, 250/th350. Did it in the driveway with no help, no special tools needed. As said, a new driveshaft is needed, but this is an EASY job, and you are going to love your new car.
Grab a 4x4 s10 rear. It fits. It's strong enough, it's newer and they're cheap to free to get. 1 3/4 weld on spring perches can be found at tractor supply for ten bucks.
One last thing. I'll doing a disc brake swap on the front and I want all the wheels to be the same BC
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