Technical Brand new Flathead owner needs some guidance

I've been a member for a few years here, but I've been away for a while because I haven't really had any HAMB friendly vehicles. That changed this weekend when I acquired my wife's late grandfather George's 1934 Ford 5-Window. Its a really neat car. I don't have any good pictures of it yet, but it's pretty nice. It's an older restoration, done by George himself. It's fairly original with some modifications done to aid in drivability (juice brakes, later motor, 12V). He drove it to Michigan, Canada, everywhere.

I have never owned, driven or worked on a flathead in my life, so there is a steep learning curve. Before I even got it on the trailer I had to replace a water pump with very few tools (that was an eye opener) and diagnose a bad plug wire. So, a few questions if I might; It's running rich, really rich. I turned the two idle mixture screws almost all the way in, and it is still really rich. There's a slight stumble at idle, and it turns into a miss/carb fart at partial throttle cruise, but seems to go away under full power. My first thought was power valve/economizer valve. The engine runs smooth, seems to have plenty of power (for what it is), it just needs a tune up I think. I haven't checked the plugs, but I think I'm going to buy some NGKs and do a new set of plug wires.

Second question, what's the best way to tighten up the belt? I can't seem to find a way to get any leverage to snug it up. Lastly, how do you open the dang rumble seat? Thanks in advance guys and gals for any help. It feels good to be back, I'll be an Alliance member again here soon.

 

If it has been sitting more than a few months drain/clean the fuel tank before running it. Carb may be gummed up with old fuel.

 

It has been sitting for quite a while, I'll have to do that. What's a good source for carb rebuild kits? I have a few spare core carburetors that I'd like to build to have as backups.

 

Here's a link to alot of info, Lots of Hamb ers on there,, in fact Roseville carl runs it http://www.flatheadsrus.com/index.php?sid=7cb70d7b0f3097f187c473d7f502c604 Tim Jones

 

Lucky boy. Cant wait for pics. You have a lot to learn.
Contact Dickster here on the hamb for carb rebuild parts. A lot of junk Chinese stuff out there. He will fix You up.
Yes, You need a rebuild. Wouldn't hurt to also throw in a new condenser too. Have fun.

 

Congrats. Pics please.

 

Lucky guy!Did you say V12 as in Lincoln?Please show some pictures.

 

Here she is:




Lots of detailing and tuning up to do, but it's a nice car.

 

Damn nice looking '34.

 

Thanks. It's nice, it just needs some attention and detailing. I plan on driving it the way it was meant to be.

 

34 Ford, the most beautiful mass produced car ever........................NICE!!!
with the 94 carb on there you probably have a bad power valve or a bad power valve gasket with the idle screws all the way in she should die. Idle screws are set at 1 1/2 turns out and turn each in till she stumbles then back out 1/2 turn unless the idle screws are ruined by some one over tightening them.

 

Josh: Have you figured out the rumble seat yet? If not, look for a pull cable behind the seat. Tim

 

The idle screws have no effect until they bottom out. So, I'll buy a carb kit and rebuild one of my cores.

Timwhit, there is a handle/lever next to the rear window, but when I tried to turn it, it broke off! So, I need to find one of those and try again I suppose.

Thanks for all of the positive responses. I can't wait to tune this thing up right and start taking my kids on car runs.


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There also might be a roll down rear window handle behind the seat. That might be what you broke off. Look further back there for the rumble handle.

To get the belt nice and tight, I slightly loosen the bolt holding the generator on, put a pry bar under the generator, and push against the intake manifold right below it. Be careful you don't over-do it though.

If the car has been sitting a while the points may need a little filing and adjusting. A moist environment will give them a little corrosion on the contact surface. Make sure to use a "point file", not a regular file.

 

Well, there's another knob that rolls down the rear window. I found that one. The lever I broke is on the back wall of the interior, next to the window knob.

I haven't looked at points yet, that's on the to do list. I have to do a little research and figure out how that system works.


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damn nice 34! welcome to the flathead club.. you cant go wrong with a good old flathead V8

 

Holy Cow that's a gem! Nice colors too. Have a blast! ---->

 

Before messing with carb, 2 things:
Replace the little filter with another, and make that a big one that you can inspect...likely you will be getting a lot of crud from storage.
Remove air filter as a first step, as it may be choking the engine, tune carb after rebuild without cleaner and then see if anything changes when cleaner goes back on.
Distributor basically pops off with 2 bolts, assuming you have a crab or 59 down there, and you can remove it and leave cap and wires dangling. It will be strange first time, but once you see what you are working with you will be able to remove and replace distributor in a minute or two braille! Note that the drive tab is asymmetrical...and the simple R&R does not alter timing. If you do work, point set and timing can be done entirely with distributor offa there.

 

12V not V12. 12 volt

 

Oops

 

Bruce, thank you for your reply. Do you mean the metal inline filter? I took the air cleaner off and it didn't affect how the car ran at all, just a little noisier from the air sucking in.


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Could you please get that garage door handle off there? Nice car. Have fun with it.

 

Sounds like your cleaner isn't plugged then! I always suspect crud, held in place by a mouse nest...
Richness then would be dead PV diaphragm, plugged air bleeds in the nozzle bars, high float level, dirty needle... in other words carburetor time.
This V8 club group has the operation and rebuild guides from the Ford bulletins online...
http://www.norgv8club.org/norg/inde...rs-and-tech-tips/category/9-service-bulletins
That plus a few specs will get you rolling up there.

On fuel filter...expect trouble there if car has been sitting. A big filter you can dump out easily could be plugged in there. Tank has a drain plug, if it can be moved. The glass bowl on that '46-48 filter

 

I feel like there was more to be said there, lol. It has the glass bowl and a metal inline filter. Should I ditch both and just run the one big one? It was very well maintained until George passed away a little over a year ago. I suspect some varnish is giving me problems. I'll check out that link when I get home on a bigger screen, lol. Thanks again for all your input.

flatheadpete, that's the first night the car has been in the garage, so adjustments are being made to accommodate the car. I spent some time polishing up one fender because the soft lacquer paint job has a ton of swirl marks. I WILL bring this car's glory back.


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...glass bowl will serve as an early warning system where you can see water, dead wasps, etc....
I would try to get tank drain plug out and dump contents, see what comes out.
If I were doing this car, I'd set a Moon tank on the floor and do all tuning
up of engine and test driving on that, with a coupla gallons of acetone sloshing around in the original tank as the car ambulates. If you do all shakedown from original tank and it's varnished and dirty, it could drive you mad before you get it clean in actual use.

 

The power of the HAMB is when you are a new guy, ask questions, and get answers from experts like Roseville Carl and Bruce Lancaster...I wish we had the HAMB when I had similar questions!!

Nice car, good luck on getting it running right

 

I love the HAMB! Bruce is the man, and I knew that long before I had this car. Now if I only had a spare Moon tank laying around, lol. I will crawl under the back today and see about that drain plug. Thanks again!


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I agree the 33/34 is at least in the top 2 Carl. This one is nice indeed.

 

When you reinstall your distributor after cleaning the points make sure you index it correctly. You'll know it is in right when it is seated down. If it isn't and you try to bolt it in, one of the distributor mounts will snap off. Just turn the rotor until it seats correctly.
Always make sure that the gasket on the fuel bowl isn't cracked or crumbling apart, and the bowl is on tight. If not you'll have starting problems. That holds true for all your fuel lines a small air leak will cause a lot of grief.
Good luck with it, It's a beautiful car.

 

In addition to all the good advice here, you might want to consult with the experts on the FordBarn, too.