Projects Re: My first attempt at a Gasser- Part 2

I think there is a combination of hard to find parts that makes a shorter mechanical water pump. "Don's Hot Rods" on the board here has mentioned it before.

Blue

 

I use Permatex Ultra Black lightly around my timing covers and water pumps on my BBF's in addition to decent gaskets. I have mine engine plated into the frame of my '32 which connects to said plate via..... the timing cover & water pump bolts. Ultra Black is the cat's a$$ but like was said you don't want to go all crazy with it and end up gooing up your internals.

 

Thanks Guys, I think we will end up taking it off and trying the Ultra Black, that's what I have used before as well. If that does not work, I did find a short mechanical water pump through Ford Racing, but I might have to change the balancer as well as my brackets to make it work, not sure I want to go through all of that again, so I hope just redoing the gaskets will fix this issue.

 

Finally got a chance to roll the bird out and get some better pictures of the stance and the motor at it's almost stage..... we're getting closer. I am going to pull the electric water pump and change it over to the ford racing short mechanical pump, waiting on the CVF pulley right now. The carbs are going to have to be rebuilt as well, they are getting pulled on Monday, they leak "EVERYWHERE", so no choice.

 

Come to find out that my early block and timing cover will not work with the electric water pump, I'm going to have to go to a 1967 timing cover to be able to run the electric water pump, this is starting to be a really big pain in my butt!

 

Whoa now,back it up a bit here....Are you saying you have the oddball timing cover for the FoMoCo aluminum water pump or something?Cause no water pump BUT the factory one will fit that cover,even other 289/302 pumps.
The block has nothing to do with it,just the cover.but I think you realize that already.
A good repro timing cover is available from National Parts Depot that will have zero warpage/corrosion/wear/leakage issues and make your world a waaaay happier place.
I still don't get how you can't fit a stock belt driven pump in there though...I think you got sucked into having some eye candy on the front of that motor.

Scott


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

No, your right, even the Ford racing "short" WP is still too long by 1/4" inch. I would have to grind the end nub off, and I'm not going to do that. I'm going to get the new timing cover without the two lower mounting holes so the electric pump will work, I already have all of my brackets designed for that pump and the belts are all together, so I just will use the later timing cover, I will check out National Parts depot, I had not thought of that. Thanks.

 

Car is starting to come together nicely though!

Scott


Posted using two Dixie cups and a medium length piece of string.

 

Thanks, I'm happy with the overall progress, but I got tired of having somebody else doing work I could do if I made the time. Now that my money is tighter this month, I decided my time could be freed up easier than coming up with more money. So I'm back to working on it with some of my garage buddies, so hopefully we will get it running soon, next show is in two weeks, woooo hoo!

 

We got the carbs off and the timing cover off of the motor, it was nice to see that everything looks like the motor was as fresh as the guy I bought it from said. The timing chain is in great shape and everything looks nice and clean, good news for once.

 

Got all of the brake lines run, had the timing cover almost installed when my "Ford " expert cracked it because he decided we did not need to remove the oil pan to put the new cover on, WRONG!
Cracked the cover down by the crankshaft. Got to go to National Parts Depot in Ocala this morning 4 hour drive to and back from Jacksonville, got the parts and back to work. We got the carbs to work right it appears, hopefully we will know by Monday night if we can get everything buttoned back up and try starting the car.... again..

 

Looks good , Geter running and tuned and you will be unable NOT TO SMILE EAR TO EAR. Love the car!!! Mikey.

 

Car looks good, coming along nicely

 

We got the timing cover, oil pan and water pump all back on and decided we better let it all setup overnight before we try starting the car and run water through the cooling system, we found there was a tear in the waterpump rubber gasket where it seals the motor to the plate of the electric pump and that is why it was leaking there so we RTV'ed the poop out of it and hope it solves that issue.
Everything else looks good for trying to start the car Tuesday night, I'll post video if it works.

 

Love what you've done with this.
Especially love the name.
I need a name for mine before I build it (39 Hudson Coupe).
And I love the tunnel ram dual carb look, headed that direction myself.

 

BTW, what size carbs are you runnin?

 

I am using 500cfm edelbrocks which may still be too large, but I will just have to wait and see once the car is up and driving. And that may be one step closer.....

 

Sounds right according to Edelbrock.. I think their site recommends one manual and one electric choke? Makes no sense to me. I would think they should be identical.

 

This should be a link to a video of my getting the Angry Bird started for the first time after all of the changes to the motor and car. I apologize for the crappy video, I'm not very good at it.

 

I have one manual and converted the other to electric choke, at this point neither is hooked up. I will wire in the electric one and most likely just remove the manual choke out of the one carb all together.

 

We got the brakes almost working and the throttle should be hooked up by Wednesday night, if that happens, then it is off to the muffler shop to get the street exhaust plumbed into the race exhaust and then test drive time!

 

The brakes are working and we should be test driving the bird on Friday. I'll do my best to post a video or pictures ASAP!

 

Cool lil' Falcon. Always good to see.

 

Thanks... The brakes are still not right, too soft for my taste. We are going to try bleeding them again, if that does not work, then since everything else has been replaced except the master cylinder, that will be what we change next.

 

Did you bench-bleed the master cylinder by itself? If not, it can result in air that you just can't get out of the system.

 

We never took the master cylinder off of the firewall, but it did sit with out any lines on it for about three months, I don't know if that is good or bad.... kind of sounds like that could be bad?

 

There could be air trapped in the MC; I've had that happen. You might want to take the MC off the car and mount it on the bench. Put brake fluid in the reservoir and simply run a tube from the output line back into the reservoir, making sure that the end of the line remains completely submerged in the brake fluid. Pump the MC a few times, to cycle air out. You might see bubbles from trapped air, keep cycling until no more bubbles. Then put the MC back in the car, bleed the system and try it again.

I've been following your build, and I'm impressed with what you are accomplishing.

 

Thanks, I'm really wanting a nice "Gasser" that is both streetable and fun to drive, but can be fun to run at the 1/8 mile once in awhile too. I know I am not really building a true Gasser, but I like the results so far. I am impressed by the grip the Mickey Thompson tires seem to have the car really launchs well, I am looking forward to getting on it hard once the brakes are stronger.

 

We are going to work on the brakes on Sunday, might just have to bite the bullet and pull the MC off, I'll post once we figure it out.

 

If you have sufficient access, you might be able to be able to "bench-bleed" the MC while leaving it in place -- if you can isolate it from the system. You just need to get brake fluid completely cycled through the MC to push out any trapped air.