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Customs Wiring-First timer

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jrockdiddy55, Oct 11, 2014.

  1. Jrockdiddy55
    Joined: Feb 6, 2013
    Posts: 23

    Jrockdiddy55
    Member
    from Phoenix

    Any advice or website you guys have for me to begin wiring my 55 ford truck? It's my first time doing any wiring. I have a painless 18 circuit non gm wiring harness new in box. Came with the truck

    Thanks for your time
    Jason
     
  2. I always separate the primary wiring from the lighting etc. Do the primary first which would be the charging circuit, starting circuit and ign switch, and guages. I then fire the engine to see that all is cool and running. Then work on the aux circuits. Neatness is prime! Any hole in steel that has wires going thru it should have rubber grommets. Neatness is prime! (did I say that again) I always install a fusible link in the alt. feed line (the heavy wire) and in the battery feed to the fuse panel. Make sure that your grounds are clean and suitable for grounding. I put dielectric grease on all bulb sockets and all ground spots. Crimping is ok on terminals but I prefer soldering and then using heat shrink to protect the terminal. By crimping I mean with a good crimping tool not a pair of pliers. If you do not have one go buy one.
    Take your time and it willturn out real professional.
     
    loudbang, lothiandon1940 and joel like this.
  3. mustangmike6996
    Joined: Apr 7, 2013
    Posts: 147

    mustangmike6996
    Member
    from the D

    As stated above, neatness....

    Slow is smooth and smooth is fast.

    Do one circuit at a time, I like to use masking tape and tape about 3 inches from the end of the wire (gives you enough room to splice it or solder or crimp etc.) place a marking on the tape. Example 12v + or GND (ground). Once you have wired everything and function tested it all, remove the tape labels. I prefer to use wire loom to secure the wires from falling all over. Computer stores will sell a braided loom (not that plastic stuff you buy at autozone) use zip ties and electrical tape. Understand what you are doing before diving in.. HAVE A GAME PLAN prior to picking up a tool. Sometimes its easiest to have the car parked on one side of the garage and actually lay out a harness you are going to install as it would sit in the car. (kind of like laying a skeleton out, in order, piece by piece)
     
    loudbang and lothiandon1940 like this.
  4. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    sit down and read the manual several times before you start and write down or hilite certain things , and keep a bottle of asprin by , painless's manual writing is sometimes confusing they need a better writer
     

  5. Jrockdiddy55
    Joined: Feb 6, 2013
    Posts: 23

    Jrockdiddy55
    Member
    from Phoenix

    Sounds good. Thx for the input fellas. VTWHead, what is a fusible link? Same thing as an "in-line fuse"?
     
  6. mustangmike6996
    Joined: Apr 7, 2013
    Posts: 147

    mustangmike6996
    Member
    from the D

    Its a circuit overload protection device built right in the line and will "trip" when overcurrent is present. There are links that burn open or a type of circuit breaker that opens due to current/heat and closes once it is cooled down.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  7. ^^^^depends on the current draw of your system...... you will need to ask Painless Tech Support what they might recommend for your particular system. In a 100 amp alt system with no crazy demands for high energy audio systems etc. I use a 14 ga. fusible link. Put it where you can get at it so if it fries you can replace it easily or go with a circuit breaker of nominal value.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  8. Sort of.... A fusible link is a kind of slow-blow overcurrent device, allowing it's rated current through but opening if it's rating is exceeded too long. How 'long' depends on how much the overcurrent is. Keep in mind that any overcurrent device is there to protect the wire, not the component. I wouldn't install anything in the charging system output, as those almost always fail 'open' and as charging current output can vary widely (with quite high short-term spikes), anything big enough to withstand those probably won't offer much protection for the wire, and small enough to protect runs the risk of nuisance tripping. Do install a link in the feed to the fuse panel, but make sure it's large enough for the calculated load.

    For more info, go here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/wiring-101.843579/
     
    loudbang likes this.
  9. Jrockdiddy55
    Joined: Feb 6, 2013
    Posts: 23

    Jrockdiddy55
    Member
    from Phoenix

  10. Yep, that's a fusible link. No info on rating, but that's more-or-less what they look like...
     
  11. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    put it somewhere safe, near nothing flammable as they release lots of energy ( heat and possible flame ) when they let go and make it easy to get at as they are a murphy law device and will let go when the ground is wet, its raining and your over a puddle or swampy area or when your in a spot you cannot get a jack under the front end ( Gm loved to put them on the wire near the starter or in the wire tube above the starter ).
     
  12. Another thing: Decide on all accessories NOW. Mount EVERYTHING before you start wiring. This is the ONLY way to achieve a neat, professional look.

    Cosmo
     

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