I HAVE A 32 FORD CAR STEERING BOX BUT NO PITMAN ARM. I,AM BUILDING A 50'S TRDITIONAL ROD. DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHO SELLS PITMAN ARMS FOR THESE BOXES ? THANKS BOB
http://lbcunited.com/earlyford2/adv...Csid=2a78f3bd8c80c2a2d0bf78069d23ee7d&x=0&y=0 do you have Midwestearlyford.com cataloge ? heres some pitman arms from them , everything but 32 maybe if you call they might have one i just did a quik search
You guys are harsh! Sorry but I don't know of anyone that makes one. Try search, on here or google, or adapt something similar?
Put a wanted add here on the HAMB and Ford Barn, 1'm sure someone will contact you with one for sale.
Any pitman arm from 1932 to 1948, and F-1's through 1952, will fit on the 1932 sector. Some will have the rod end pointing under, and some will point out. Some will have a little different offset or length, but those may be benefits depending on your situation.
AS far as caps,I like alot of old folk have bad eyes as you most likely will have when you get old ! so I type where I can see what I,am doing. so grow up you computer geeks,life isnt perfect. thanks for all the tips guys on the arm I need, your all a good bunch.............. bob
Yep. Every one I've ever used needed a tweak with the heat to get right. Call Dick Spadaro, he will get you right.
I'm old now, and wear reading glasses sometimes...but my wife is younger, gorgeous, and smart; she is 'computer savvied', as she runs a large company. Let me share with you all what she taught me about the 'Fine Print'. On the lower left of the keyboard, just below the SHIFT key is the CTRL key. Depress the CTRL key, and roll the wheel on the mouse. The print will enlarge one way and shrink the other way. No need for caps. I thought the over reaction about them was 'excessive', but I really lack political correctness.
I wear glasses to use the computer. Plus, you can change the size of the font if you want it larger as Mike says. And that's only one way. When you post a reply, the 5th icon from the left in the reply box is for altering font size. Works like this!
Henry Ford made them. He made them stronger than any crap you can buy today. Source original parts and make it work!
Do you need the passenger arm or the commercial? They are 'clocked' differently to account for the slightly more vertical orientation of the commercial column - nothing a file can't fix, but there is a difference. Another option is the 33-34 arm, but it has the built in ball; good luck finding one that isn't worn out! I bought a NOS commercial arm from Dennis Carpenter a few weeks ago. Call them - ask for the NOS parts department. Part # is B-3590 for the passenger arm; B-3590-B or BR for the commercial. 33-34 arm is 40-3590.
It's a proven fact that upper and lower case type is easier to read than all upper case. So all the old timers are fooling themselves when they type in all caps "because it's easier to read".
You can use a wide variety of later arms if you do a little work. You need to remove the blocking splines so the arm can be rotated 45* from stock. Only the 32 and 33-34 arms have the right spline orintation stock.
well, went to the shop today and looked closer at my steering box. what i thought was a 32 box to my knoledge now is a 48-52 f-1 sector box. gosh i was hoping it was a 32 box. i got it so long ago I cant remember when. anyway will it work in my 32 hot rod project ? thanks for all the help. bob
The 32 boxes are not very good (steering wise) and were often upgraded to the F1 boxes. The F1 is considered far superior, if you don't want the F1 box I am sure it would be easy to find someone that would be willing to trade you out. Good F1 boxes are selling for around $150 and easy to sell, so you could also price a 32 box and see if that would be a way to go.
Not sure there is a "bolt-on" one, the one I am using has to be modified. There are four flats inside of the arm that indexes it and they are in the wrong position. So, you have the file them to the shape of the other splines. I am working on one right now. Not sure of the year/model, I can head out to the garage and take a photo and look for ID marks. Also, somewhat depends on what you are using for a draglink, I'm using the later tie rod ends with the taper.
Not sure about a 32 frame but, I have an AV8 with an F1 box and a 36 pitman arm. Had to file out the 4 clocking teeth so I could get it where I needed it.
Yes I want the later "tapered" tie rod ends for my 32 project. getting those indexing slots filed isnt a problem. all help is appreciated bob
If it is an F1 box (and a lot of the earlier boxes) the shaft splines should look like the ones in the 1st photo, believe the F100 shaft is different, but not sure. The second one is with the flats filed down. The third is the whole setup and the last one is the part number. My part number is for a 39 arm, believe several different years will work (like F-6Garagerat is using a 36), the big issue is to make sure it has the correct connection for the drag link you intend to use. The part number on mine is 78-3590, assume you know that the -3590 id's it as a steering arm and the 78 id's the year it was first introduced. Saw some on e-bay for around $25 to $35, one was a mercury which I assume would be the same.
YES,my box has the same splines so its a f1 box for sure. did the 39 arm come factory with the taper ? do you have a part number for the tie rod end also ?
Yes on the taper, both the splined end and the smooth end have a taper (7 degrees on the smooth end). The tie rod ends are the same for many years of Fords someone like Speedway, Summit or Jegs would carry them (or any early Ford supply house). Looked up the original Ford part numbers: RH 11A-3270 (used 35-48 Car & 35-64 Pickup) & LH 11A-3271 (used 35-59 Car & 35-64 Pickup). Think they are 11/16-18 on the threaded part and 7 degrees taper on the stud. These are the ends that go into the spindle arms on the 35 up cars & pickups. They use a RH & LH thread so you can twist the tie rod to adjust the toe-in/toe-out. These same ends and a similar rod can be used as a draglink. They could be RH & LH or both the same according to how you want to set it up and adjust it. If they are RH/LH you can just twist the draglink to make it longer or shorter. If they are both the same, you have to disconnect one end the adjust the length.
OK,found a 36 ford pitman arm online for 35.00 + shipping and bought it. 37-40 arms seems like they dont exhist !!! go figure. anyway in order to use this box in my 32 frame i understand i need a wedge piece that goes between the box mounting flange and the frame rail correct ? i know they sell them at places online but there 90.00. i can get my machineist to make me one as its a simple deal 3 mounting bolt holes,1 large hole for sector shaft and then the machined wedge. anybody got the measurements for this ?
That's one of many ways to solve the problem. I don't have the measurements because I don't like that approach. Nothing technically wrong with it, just not what I like. I want my car (33 5 window) to look like I would have built it in the 50s. You can modify the frame or use a wedge or modify the end of the steering box. Should be able to find some information by searching the HAMB on this one. On the modified box, the end is cut off and re-welded at the proper angle. The angle of the wedge should be whatever it takes to straighten the box up. Bolt the column where you want it and see what the gap is between the frame and the forward edge of the box. Then determine what you need to support it (might make a wooden or something mock-up for a pattern).
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