Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Current draw, dead battery

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by rocknrolldaddy, Oct 6, 2014.

  1. rocknrolldaddy
    Joined: Aug 24, 2006
    Posts: 336

    rocknrolldaddy
    Member

    So now that I'm driving my car regularly, I'm having trouble with a dead battery every 3 or 4 days. I'm running a GM alt from a '88 Caprice. It's charging at about 13.2 to 13.6 volts. I did a draw test, where I pull 1 fuse at a time and check for a spark at the battery. Even tried several fuses removed at a time with the same result. The only thing I have directly to the battery is the air compressor, and that's on a switch that is on only when I drive it. I have the battery grounded to the block, and the block grounded to the chassis.

    Anyone know what could be causing this?

    Thanks. Art.
     
  2. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,214

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    Might be you're not charging enough. Should be 14.2 volts just off idle. Put on some electrical accessories, to draw, and see if it stays at 14 volts, it should. Even with, say, hi beams, and heater blower on high.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  3. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,280

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Yep, you're just below the needed voltage. Every rod should have a battery shutoff too.
     
  4. hrm2k
    Joined: Oct 2, 2007
    Posts: 4,869

    hrm2k
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I did an air system for a friend of mine. He was having the same problem. He now pulls the huge fuse for the air ride system when he is through for the day..........problem solved.
     

  5. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    It could be the alternator/regulator, but a dash clock will always draw current (but may do so only at regular intervals) as it never goes off with the key. Sometimes folks forget that fact. Unplug the clock (if it exists) before trying to find a problem with the wiring.

    If I suspect another voltage drain, with the key off, I will usually pull the ground cable loose from the battery & put a tail light bulb in the circuit. You can put clips and wires on a bulb or use a commercial test light, or you can just have an assistant hold the bulb to the battery. Just use the right voltage bulb.

    If it goes on at all or even glows, with the key off, there is a short or something's not shutting off at the switch/relay. (or it's the clock!) It is a dead short if the light is bright: that kind of short often blows fuses and melts wires. BUT a transient or "partial" short can make it glow weakly. It could be a fraying wire or even a full on dead short, but on a circuit with a bad ground, and thus yet it will glow weakly.

    I will un-plug & re-plug everything one wire or plug at a time until the lamp dies. That will isolate the guilty circuit, but beware that bad grounds can "scramble" your expected results from the test. Check every ground you can identify.
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2014
  6. Also, if you are using a relay for the compressor, that can definitely cause a current draw. When the pressure drops far enough to trip the pressure switch the relay goes live even though you have the main hot wire to the compressor switched off.


    Edit: Your charging voltage is also too low. Check your regulator/alternator to find the cause.
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  7. Markmonty
    Joined: Apr 5, 2012
    Posts: 66

    Markmonty
    Member
    from Gerorgia

    There's a good chance you have a voltage drop in one of your battery cables


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  8. Agree to the needed 14.2 volts.
     
  9. choppedtudor
    Joined: Nov 28, 2009
    Posts: 722

    choppedtudor
    Member

    low charging voltage AND a voltage drain tells me you have a bad diode in the alternator....change ALL of the diodes...they are usually mounted on a plate that can be removed/replaced easily.
     
  10. rocknrolldaddy
    Joined: Aug 24, 2006
    Posts: 336

    rocknrolldaddy
    Member

    Thanks for the replies.

    I'm not running a clock, not even a radio with a clock. The battery cables are new and the terminals are clean. It is definitely not at 14.2 v. I will check diodes tomorrow. I didn't think of checking the relays or anything other than the compressor, in the air ride system.

    Ulu, if fixing the alt, and the electrical in the air ride isn't the issue. I will try your "tail light bulb in the circuit" trick.

    Thanks again, fellas. Art.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.