Technical Lowering choice???

Hey guys.

Im going to lower my `50 Chevy styleline. I don`t want to go for any hightech solutions. I actually just want to lower the original suspension. I like the way these `50 cars drive, so i dont want to chance that. Im thinking about lowering blocks in the rear, and lowering springs in the front. But would it make a big different, if i just cut a piece of the original spring (maybe just for a start)? It would be much easier/cheaper for me, because i live in Denmark, and the springs have to be flown over to me. How much do you think i can lower it without the wheels are touching the fenders when im turning??? Do i have to adjust something with the geometry, or will it drive like before, just more affected by gravity??? i attached a photo of the car, maybe that make it easier to tell, how low i can go. Since the first photo was taken i took of the fenderskirts.




I hope to get your opinions and experiences with this project.

Regards Andreas from Denmark.

KEEP ON HOT RODDING

 

Cool sedan.. I would cut the original springs.. 1949-54 front springs are kind of small and thin so I would start with cutting only one coil first.. Be careful when removing the springs..

 

To get a idea about how much you can lower the front without causing the tires to rub when turning, turn the front wheels and measure how much clearance there is between the tire and fender at their closest point. Allow some space for wheel movement that will occur when turning into curbed entrance or sloped surface.

As for cutting your existing springs, yes you can do that. However, the spring will be stiffer when shortened. With the "A" arm suspension and coil spring placement, you will want to shorten the spring about half to two thirds of the actual "drop" you want. For example, if you want to drop the front 2 1/2", only shorten the spring a maximum of 1 1/2". Then re-install, make sure the front end is 'settled' and measure your result.

The best way to drop the front is with dropped spindle supports, aka "uprights". That lowers the front but retains full suspension travel and the original spring height and spring rate. They are available from Fatman Fabrications, and perhaps other vendors.

On the rear, lowering blocks are the way to go.

Ray

 

Thank you. I have just gotten the car, and I become more and more fond of it, these `49-`54 Chevys are great looking cars. What do you mean when you write i need to be careful, when I remove the spring ???

 

I installed 1954 uprights and cut one coil from my front springs for a total drop of about 3". I installed 3" blocks in the rear and new shocks on all 4 corners while I was at it. I believe the front will settle a bit more, and I hope it does, when I can get a few miles on the car.



I have another pair of 3" blocks in my shop, they were ordered incorrectly and came with round u-bolts. If you can find u-bolts locally, I'll ship you the blocks at actual cost of freight as I have no idea what else they fit and I'd rather see them put to use than collecting dust in my shop. PM me if you want me to look into the freight cost.


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Coil springs in their installed position are compressed, and when removing them one has to be careful that the spring doesn't become dislodged and fly out in an uncontrolled manner. That could cause serious injury. There are tools available to attach to the spring, called 'spring compressors' than contain the spring and allow gradually release of the spring after it has been removed. Removal and replacement can be done without such tools, but requires care.

Ray

 

I really like the stance in the rear, but maybe like and inch or so lower in the front, would make it look perfect. How much is it lower that original, in the front? I try to find some u-bolts, and then i will return.

 

I think the photo of Jetcycles Chevy is a bit misleading. It appears to me the pavement beneath the car is not level. It appears higher in the middle of the car and slopes away to either end, but that gives an inaccurate visual effect to front end height.

Ray

 

I would like the front another inch lower as well! I want to order lowering springs but haven't heard much good about Jamco lately. I haven't driven the car, as I'm rebuilding the entire braking system again, but I believe it should settle a bit once it sees the road for a few miles. Take a look at your u-bolts to see if they are square or rounded. I'm guessing the car is 3" lower all around, but I didn't measure before and after as I swapped tire sizes during the install.


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I think i just place the car on some stand jacks and put a hydraulic jack under the lower control arm. And slowly lower it when the bolts are taken out. Thats how i usually do it.

 

Yes, that is how I do it too.

Ray

 

Can you see the "chrome detail" in the middle of the front wheel? i dont know what its called, and where to buy it? i want to buy a pair for the rear wheels, but where???

 

They are called "Spider Caps"

 

Thank you i found them with a dealer in Denmark.

 

Would it be possible for you to find some u-bolts, and then send both the blocks and the u-bolts to me? i will of course pay all your expenses. Only if it`s not too messy for you. Because the dealer here in Denmark, is asking about 1800 Danish kroner which is above $ 300. I think that`s pretty expensive for 2 aluminum blocks and 2 u-bolts. And I'm quite sure I'm just trying to cut down the springs. Because for a set of 2,5" lowering springs he demands about 3700 Danish kroner which is about $ 630. Everything would be easier if I just lived in America

Regards from Denmark.

 

I initially tried to find suitable square U-bolts, mainly due to chevy of the 40's lackluster return policy, and was unable to do so. I simply purchased the proper lowering kit and shoved the others to the back of the bench. Some HAMB members have been successful in obtaining U-bolts, a search here may reveal more info. I can take measurements, upload photos, and try to guide you along the way, but I will be away from home for the next 7 days for work commitments in Denver, Colorado. Did you confirm that you have square hardware?


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""Did you confirm that you have square hardware?"" Maybe im just stupid, but im not sure what you mean? Maybe I should have taken another year in school

 

On torque tube style axles used on Chevy's such as yours, the axle housing itself is not clamped to the spring as is usually the case with leaf rear springs. Rather, there is a pivoting bracket on the axle housing that is clamped to the spring....and the "U" bolts are not "U" shaped exactly. They do not have the rounded section connecting the two sides......they are 3 sides of a square in shape l_l ........

Ray

 

Why not cut the front coils & de-arch the rear springs ? It'll save you MANY Kroner, be "traditional", & all that u-bolt crap won't hang under your car.

 

On the springs and longer "U " bolts and lowering blocks.
Just as most larger cities in the US have automotive/truck "spring" shops Denmark should have similar shops that rework leaf springs for trucks and cars and can form U bolts to fit. Check around for shops that work on truck suspension in your area.

A local machine shop could most likely cut you out a pair of lowering blocks out of steel for a lot less than the asking price for the aluminum ones too. The lowering block is just a block of metal that is the same width as the spring, long enough to be longer than the pad that sets on it and the correct height for the desired drop. It needs a proper size hole in one side to locate it on the spring bolt and a stud sticking out the other side to locate the spring pad on it.

The be careful when removing the springs comment was made because sometimes springs take off across the shop when you pop them out of the spring pocket in the control arm. A lot of guys like to loop a chain through a coil of the spring to deaden it's bounce action.

 

Which NGK sparkplugs (it is the brand they sell in the only auto shop which is open on Saturdays) would you put in this 216" with dual rochesters? They look a little black now, so i think they need to be warmer. Woluld BPR6HS work? I want to put 6 new in it before i adjust the ignition, and fine tune my carbs later to day, with my new neon timing light, and vacuummeter

 

Woluld any one of these work??? http://www.thansen.dk/soeg/?q=tændrør

It is my only option today.

 

I found a set of 3" loweringblock, for a better price than the first place i asked. Did you do anything with the steering geometry when you cut your spring? I have just been offered a set of fatman drop spindles. Will that give a better handling, or should I just save money?

 

I would check if you need to get new tie-rods to use with the dropped spindles. I think the Fatman ones won,t work with stock tie rods (clearance problems).

 

I just went to my local iron/steel shop with my orginal U-bolts and told him I needed longer ones. Cost me 75 euro. Cut off 1,5 spring of my frontleafs. And loweringblocks are easy to make yourself.

 

I'm running 1954 uprights and steering arms. If I had the $$$ for fatman dropped uprights, I'd have gone that route. I have not modified my steering geometry, and I do not believe that there is a need to, but I'm not pro.

 

Are the 54 spindles different from the 50?


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I can't answer that question as I do not know, and I don't want to misinform you, but I believe they're the same. What i do know is that the 1953-54 uprights ( I believe they're called supports in the manual) are different from the 1949-52 uprights, and installing them will result in the front end being lowered by 1". I got lucky with my parts, I bought a 235 (with 848 head from a 1958 apache) from a local guy and he basically threw these parts in for free just to get them out of his way. I'll have the brakes for sale soon as I installed an ECI disc kit up front instead.

 

Hey again guys. I just been in the garage to look at the steering on my styleline, witch is very loose, i was sure it was the steering box that need to be adjusted, but that was amazing good. But i need to rebuild the idler-arm and found a kit for that. But i also need to replace or restore the steering connecting rod (thats what it`s called in the manual) because it has alot of clunck, and grease coming out of it. But i cant find it with the dealers, dont they make restore-kits or new parts for it??? Thanks in advance. Andreas from Denmark

 

Same parts inside as the tierod & drag link on AD 1/2 ton trucks. Pull the cotter keys, pop out the cups & pull the springs ... one or both will probably be broken. Check the balls the link pivots on for out of round. Now would be the time to adjust the box even if it feels good. You'll get a better "feel" with the link off. Back off the lock nut & slotted screw on top, take out end play with the large slotted adjustment screw on the bottom, then adjust the top worm gear ... Grease is a matter of preference - I like half STP & half Lubriplate 105.