Hey yall.... I've been racking my brain now for a couple of weeks why my 63 Ford with a 223 6 cyl is getting no spark.... now I'm at my wits end. It suddenly died on me after running like a champ for awhile. Getting fuel ...just no spark. I have replaced the following. New coil , rotor ,points , condenser, ignition switch , starter relay .. to no avail...no spark.... I'm getting 11.80 to and out of the cap... but no spark... I don't get it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Do you have power getting to the coil ? Where and what do you mean by 11.8 to the cap? The distributor cap? Do you have a test light ?
I'll bet the ground wire from the distributor to the coil broke, or something broke inside the motor and the dizzy is not turning. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Yep....power to the coil and out of it. 11.8 volts. The rotor is spinning when cranking just fine.... I checked the ground wire from the dist. To the coil and it looks good as well. But I was thinking the same thing....it's like it's not finding a ground...
With your test light make sure that you have power to the coil in start position while cranking. With your test light, hook to ground and negative side of the coil. Crank engine and the test light should flash. With your test light make sure the points mounting plate has a ground. If the tester stays ON while cranking, the points are not closing. Watch them while turning the pulley to see if they appear to close. If they do, there may be a surface film on the points or the points are eroded and pitted. Replace the points. In a pinch, you might lightly file the points. When replacing points, be sure to put a tiny amount of grease on the cam lobes or else the fiber rubbing block will rapidly wear and change the point gap. One other rare cause of an "open points" condition is failure of the tiny braided pigtail lead which grounds the advance plate. If the pigtail is broken, the advance plate may only be intermittently grounded. This will cause loss of spark as the advance plate moves or maybe no spark at any time. (There is no pigtail on distributors which have no vacuum advance.) If the tester stays OFF while cranking, there are 3 possibilities: Points shorted (stuck closed). Condensor shorted. Coil open.
I got her running !!! Honestly I wish I could tell you exactly what I did to fix the problem. .. But I did Take a little emry cloth to those new points and moved some wires around and Boom !!!! I had spark. I think I wasted a lot of money on u necessary parts , but oh well... she's actually has a shit ton more power than what she did before her coma.... Thanks for all the help Gents !!
I have seen quite a few that have bad pigtails to the points, the vac advance moves the plate, it kills the motor, or the opposite it doesn't make contact, when you wiggle the wires the broken internals touch and it fires. I'd look close at the lead from points to neg side of the coil for an internal break or rubbing against the housing
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