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Flathead ford build??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Ebraga9, Aug 6, 2014.

  1. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 3,271

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

  2. Ebraga9
    Joined: Aug 6, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Ebraga9

    Thank you f1!!


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  3. Ebraga9
    Joined: Aug 6, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Ebraga9

    And Saxon I'll get a pic of the back of the head tomoro, and thanks for the info!!


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    Saxon likes this.
  4. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,157

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    Don't get confused with to much info, its easy to do. Take your time and more important, have fun.

    Atwood mike suggested the way I would start on the block. Depending on your budget I'd cut all the valves out from the valley and replace them. If the block works out.

    Between asking question on the hamb and the barn you will get alll the answers you need. Not to mention searching through both. Typing in the right key words will open a plethora of info.

    Wait till Bruce starts posting, it'll frickin blow your mind! ;). Best of luck.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2014
  5. Ebraga9
    Joined: Aug 6, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Ebraga9

    Thanks Saxon!!! And yes valves are going as well I'll keep you guys posted, hopefully get going this weekend but who knows for sure yet!


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  6. Ebraga9
    Joined: Aug 6, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Ebraga9

    And my dad has overhauled plenty of stuck and non stuck engines, even tho he hasn't worked on a flathead, he's going to throw me in the right direction on getting pistons, and the valves out!


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  7. FOURTYDLX
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 718

    FOURTYDLX
    Member

    Try the ford barn, Flathead friendly
     
  8. Ebraga9
    Joined: Aug 6, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Ebraga9

    Will do thank you, and Saxon here's the backside of the head and haven't had time to clean it up so you. Can see better but I'm getting new heads anyway ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1407868808.402778.jpg


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  9. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,157

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    Hard to tell as they are fairly crusty, but I would venture to say they are cheater heads. Neat.
     
  10. jseery
    Joined: Sep 4, 2013
    Posts: 743

    jseery
    Member
    from Wichita KS

    The 59 cast into the bellhousing is kinda a giveaway, it's a 59a block. Also, on the distributor, not sure where your getting this information about 45 & pancake distributors, but it really is not useful information for ID purposes. The engine has been rebuilt before (it has a rebuild tag on the front of it), it has had the heads changed & it has pistons removed, so the parts could be from many different years. The distributor could be from any year that would bolt up. The block is about all you can ID and it is a 59a.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2014
  11. Ebraga9
    Joined: Aug 6, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Ebraga9

    Yes I know it's a 59a block with aftermarket heads. I just wanted to know what year exactly it was that's all. I know it's a 46-48 from taking the heads off


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  12. Hotrodmyk
    Joined: Jan 7, 2011
    Posts: 2,302

    Hotrodmyk
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    Look on the top of the block and see if there are any numbers stamped there by the intake ports. Probably need to wire brush the block real well to see.
     
  13. jseery
    Joined: Sep 4, 2013
    Posts: 743

    jseery
    Member
    from Wichita KS

    As far as I know there isn't any way to date the blocks beyond what you have done. 46-48 is as good as your going to get. There was some casting information stamped into the intake surface of the block, but don't think anyone knows what any of them mean. The 46-48 will give you all the information you need for parts, specs, etc. Might want to check out the crank and see what it is, with some of the mods on the engine it might be interesting.
     
  14. Ebraga9
    Joined: Aug 6, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Ebraga9

    Thanks jseery!! And same to you hotrod, I just wanted to know the range like you said, which I got already for parts that's all I cared about and if I found some numbers I was going to try and look them up just for the hell of it but as long as I know the range I'm fine with that


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  15. Those are definitely Weiand "Cheater" heads. Heres a thread with more information - http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...o-on-these-heads-weiand-cheater-heads.622128/

    The original Canadian aluminium heads look like this. I have a pair for both a early 24 stud, and the late 21 stud engines. They say "Made in Canada" instead of just "Canada" like the cheaters.

    [​IMG]
    Heres a late 21 stud head for comparison -

    [​IMG]
    Keep the cheater heads, whatever you do. They are fucking cool.
     
  16. Ebraga9
    Joined: Aug 6, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Ebraga9

    Hahah thanks 28a I'm either going to use them in the rebuild or just keep them as nice wall piece or use them in a later time! Thanks for the info man


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  17. Ebraga9
    Joined: Aug 6, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Ebraga9

    Just want to keep you guys informed that I am most likely going to make the motor rebuild a nice winter project. I have a lot going on right now and I'm going to start the rebuild in a few months. I need to save some extra money for the parts lol and read some books to get some more info!! Again thanks for the help guys and ill keep you guys informed


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