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Hot Rods Rebuilt Chevy 235 Filter or Not......

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by choppedCOE, Aug 7, 2014.

  1. choppedCOE
    Joined: Nov 14, 2010
    Posts: 20

    choppedCOE
    Member
    from San Diego

    Hello Hambers...
    Tilte implies it all! I just had my 1957 235 rebuilt. Cam, Pistions, Resurfacing, Timimg Gear, head, etc...now the old debate on 235 filtration...if I was thinking I would have had my builder convert to full flow but as it stands it is still by-pass. Now I'm thinking that the by-pass is compleatly useless but a freshly rebuilt engine needs some kind of filtration....any and all thoughts....
     
  2. I would run a filter. When I purchased my 1954 chevrolet, it didn't have an oil filter. I first purchased the cartridge filter, then realized, I couldn't find where it went. Asked an older guy where it was, and was told they didn't all have them. Lucky enough the guy knew of a junkyard that had a 54 panel. So I went down on a nasty winter day, and bingo, there it was with a filter unit.

    With a new engine I would run a filter unit, I also feel more secure having one on my old engine.
     
  3. choppedCOE
    Joined: Nov 14, 2010
    Posts: 20

    choppedCOE
    Member
    from San Diego

    I hear ya...The only problem is these by-pass filter are pretty useless...but i guess some filtration is better than no filtration....
     
  4. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,013

    belair
    Member


  5. choppedCOE
    Joined: Nov 14, 2010
    Posts: 20

    choppedCOE
    Member
    from San Diego

    nah...as in no filter...or nah..as in don't run it without a filter.....
     
  6. ol-nobull
    Joined: Oct 16, 2013
    Posts: 1,655

    ol-nobull
    Member

    Hi. I am in the same situation of nearly done with a complete rebuild on a 1957 235 that I bought used to go in my 46 Coupe with everything new inside the engine including a 0.060 bore, 264 grind cam, springs, lifters & purhrods, hardened valve seats & valves, timing gears, rods & pistons & a turned crank & 12 volt system. It is almost ready to start & run to do final valve adjust and break in the new cam. I will run the old style filter as it has to be better than nothing.

    After the cam gets broken in & no problems I will drive it for a couple hundred miles change oil & filter again just for just in case some tiny bit of something did not get washed out. In my opinion it is just too much money involved in the new engine to gamble with no filter. I will definately be using the Valvoline VR1 oil with zinc.

    If my mechanic quits dragging his feet it should be runing next week but he has been in slow gear lately. Who knows when? I will post some engine photo's once it is all together & going.

    As a side note on the inside back page of the Septermber issue of Hemming's Motor news Diamondback Tires add states they are NOW accepting orders on their new Auburn Radials in many sizes in either blackwall or wide whitewalls in many of the old original 15" & 16" tire sizes as they are now supposed to be arriving lat August hru September. I emailed my order but have not reieved the confirmation yet. These Auburn tires are styled to look like the original Bias ply tires & should be great for those wanting to keep the stock look.

    Good luck with yours. Jimmie
     
  7. 'Mo
    Joined: Sep 26, 2007
    Posts: 7,432

    'Mo
    Member

    The by-pass filter will eventually filter 100% of the oil. I would definitely run it.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2014
  8. choppedCOE
    Joined: Nov 14, 2010
    Posts: 20

    choppedCOE
    Member
    from San Diego

    Sounds like we have the same build...I no linger have the original filter as I purchased a remote by-pass spin on type....it's for a full flow oil system so if I do decide to use it i'll need to restrict it. Which opens up a new can...
     
  9. 1928chevycoupe
    Joined: Jun 4, 2012
    Posts: 217

    1928chevycoupe
    Member

    some people who dont have a filter just change the oil more often, seems to work for them
     
  10. choppedCOE
    Joined: Nov 14, 2010
    Posts: 20

    choppedCOE
    Member
    from San Diego

    This is how I intend to run the engine after the break-in period...
     
  11. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,013

    belair
    Member

    nah, as in I wouldn't mess with it.
     
  12. choppedCOE
    Joined: Nov 14, 2010
    Posts: 20

    choppedCOE
    Member
    from San Diego

    this is what I'm leaning towards.....
     
  13. choppedCOE
    Joined: Nov 14, 2010
    Posts: 20

    choppedCOE
    Member
    from San Diego

    ok....so I've decided to run the aftermarket remote spin on type oil filter...1/4" copper hardlines as the filter will be attached to the bell housing....My Filter set up is for full flow..My engine is not..so I need to restrict the flow from the supply side by how much......I've looked and looked on the HAMB and the NET.....no luck.....I plan on soldering a solid plug on the inside of one of the brass/copper fittings and then drilling out the correct size restricting orifice.....I just need to know the size of the hole......thanks all!!!
     
  14. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,657

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    Have you ever seen a scuzzy swimming pool full of dirt and algae after sitting all winter, and someone turns on the pool filter and 2 or 3 days later it is sparkling clean?

    That is how a bypass filter works. All pool filters are bypass filters, they take out a small amount of water, clean it, and pump it back into the pool.

    The bypass filters on old cars are finer than full flow filters. They filter the oil cleaner.

    ANY filter is better than no filter. A bypass filter cleans all the oil every 20 minutes or so. To me the difference between a bypass filter and no filter is bigger than the difference between a bypass and full flow.

    The main reason they changed from bypass to full flow, was hydraulic valve lifters. A small piece of dirt or sludge can plug the fine holes in hydraulic lifters. This was not a problem on solid lifter engines. This is why they used bypass filters for 25 years, then suddenly changed to full flow when hydraulic lifters came out.

    There was some discussion of this on a Studebaker web site. Studebaker V8s only changed to full flow filters in 1962, after being in production for 10 years. The newer blocks are considered more desirable for this reason. Yet experienced Studebaker mechanics who have rebuilt many of these motors, report NO difference in engine wear or cleanliness. They would just as soon rebuild one with a bypass filter for their own use, especially since they can get them cheaper.
     
  15. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,657

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    Suggest you use a Frantz filter or similar. They take a roll of toilet tissue for a filter, they are the best and most efficient bypass filter.

    Using the coarse full flow element on a bypass filter to me, is getting the worst features of both.

    The usual restriction is .060 or 1/16". I don't think it makes much difference as the oil flow is controlled by the oil pump pressure release valve. The oil that gets filtered, is the oil that the release valve dumps to reduce excess pressure. You should be able to run with no restriction. Just check your oil pressure when you first start up in case I am wrong. Or check the illustrations in your repair manual for oil pipe routing.
     

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