I have done some searches but can't any in depth details on the process. I have seen a few different ways of doing it, but no real "step by step" information. I am about to radius the fenderwells to accept some 29.5" tall Towel City pie crust cheaters on my 52 Ford and i would really like to get it right the first time. Just looking for some ideas and input on the best way to get it done right and symmetrical. Any links to other threads or sites showing this process would be greatly appreciated as well. Thank you!
Find a set of front fenders and use the wheel lips off of those so the front and rear match Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Mine look like crap, according to more than one person, so don't take what I say too seriously...but... make sure you have the car at the desired ride height first. it's easier to do that if the car is finished. If you don't have all the parts in the car, gas in the tank, etc, it's going to be tough to get the radius to match the tire when it's done. What I did was to use the string/sharpie trick to draw a radius from the center of the axle. that gave me a good idea where it might end up. Then I used the string/sharpie trick on a big piece of cardboard, and made a half circle with the desired radius, which is around 30" depending on how tall the tires are, how much clearance you want, etc. I farted around with the cardboard, and the line I drew based on the axle center, until I was happy with the location. I did the layout on one side of the car, then made a template to do the other side. trimmed away the metal, and test fit a tire. Decided it was as close as I could get. Then I bent some 16 gauge 1/2" od steel tube around a front (smaller) tire (it will spring back after you bend it, so you need to bend it around a smaller tire), and then adjusted it to fit the radius. Tack welded it behind the radiused edge of the outer sheet metal. Played around with the inner wheelhouse to make it meet the tube, and tacked that in. then did the finish work. But keep in mind that mine looks like crap, the radius trick just doesn't work on an altered wheelbase car, unless you fill in the original wheel opening. It does keep weight down, and this car is all about going fast, not about style, so I don't really care.
If I was going to do it and didn't want to buy another set of front fenders or didn't want the front and rear to match. I would probably make a template...tape it up there and make sure that's what I want. Then cut it about 1/2" bigger than what you want...pie cut the extra. Bend it in...and then weld the pie cuts. Or use some round stock to make give it some strength.
'52-54 ford front fenders don't have the round radius that is needed,they need to be basically a half circle t o accomidate the large pie crust slicks. As Jim said,get the car where you want it to sit before you drag out the jig saw or saws all. Then you can use a yard stick and decide where you want the center on one end of the stick and attach a sharpie to mark the arc as you sweep it around. HRP
This might be helpful ...... These are the w/o radiusing articles from Valley customs that are posted on Rik's site. Hopefully these are helpful. Radiusing a w/o meant revealing the entire wheel and tire, not changing the shape of a w/o to a diffent but similar shape.
Squirrel: I love that look, (on a race car) it looks 'modified to work'. (functional) Danny: I have a '54 Ford Coupe, was set up tall; almost radiused the rears. Now the car has a narrow 9" butt, (Bronco axle) and American Torq-Thrusts, sits 3" taller than stock, has that 'muscle' air to it now. I couldn't bring myself to Buick the quarters...car will be Wimbledon white. I went thru all the changes: '37 Plymouth tube axle (back to A frames now) etc.
Squirrel, How did you connect the string to the axles center register? This is the main part I do not understand. Thank you everyone for the input
I think I tied it on something like a screwdriver, and held it in place. Or I might have used a yardstick...memory fades quickly these days. My axles have a center hole, some don't. you could bolt any kind of a stick to two lugs, and turn the axle. Or attach it to the wheel, if the wheel is on the car.
I used the tire and wheel I wanted to run as a template and cut the 1/4s with a sawsall. Next, I bent some 1/2 tube around the raw opening and welded it to the 1/4 I don't have any good pics of the finished 1/4 but you get the idea. Good luck, -Abone.
We did that method when we did wheel wells for the stock cars. Get one of the kids that hung around to hold a pencil of something in the axle steady and we'd drag the sharpie around making the arc.
Here are a couple pictures of a 54 Ford wagon that we did at my shop, if you like that style I can fill you in on the details. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Here is another style of radiused wheel well that my shop did on my old falcon, this style is a little more involved. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Wow that is one badass wagon! I'd love some more details on it and how you went about doing the radius. More pictures of it would be awesome too like the front end suspensionetc... I'm about to lop the front end off mine for some 2x4 square tubing and a straight axle any pictures and guidance would be so much appreciated
I love your falcon. I put together one also, got a lot of great ideas from your car. I thought I saw it posted up here awhile back for sale no? Scratch that. I just re read your post
I saw an article in an older issue of one of the rodding magazines on doing this. They cut the rounded sheet metal fender lip with the nice factory formed lip out of the front fender of a Caprice from the 80's. Then they cut the wheel well and welded the donor sheet metal in. It can be done on the front and rear for a nice matching look, or just the rear if you like. A much better and cleaner look than the old quick and dirty method of using conduit or round rod and a pile of mud.
First thing would be to decide what you want it to look like when you're done. That will kind of dictate the method you use.
Go here and scroll down to post #706. Looks like an easy and accurate way to do it. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...gster-next-stop-billetproof-wa.671912/page-24
Hey Squirrel - does this mean I won't see the '55 cruising Fry Blvd anymore? Or is this one an addition to the family? [/QUOTE]
I didn't cut the front frame rails on the wagon, just capped off the spring pockets and used an econoline front axle, mocked up the stance with the wheels and tires that the customer wanted to run. The rear suspension is ladder bars and coilovers. I used the stock steering column and gearbox, I made my own steering arm off of the econoline spindle. Then just fabbed some leafspring mounts off of the stock rails. After the front and rear suspension was all set up I trimmed out the quarters as close to the tires as possible, then I free handed a line on the quarter where I wanted the sheet metal to end. Then I take some 16 gauge sheet and made a inch and a half strip a little longer than my free handed outline and break that length wise 90 degrees. So now you have 3/4 L channel and I stretch it to line up with the line on the quarter then butt weld it in place after you get your desired radius. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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