** OFFICIAL ** hot rod clutch brake pedal thread !

Harv, those are 32 to 34 ford truck pedals, the peda arms are the same as 32.

heres some ansen type pedal me and a buddy ran a batch of and a pic of the pedals Harv was asking about.

jeff

 

Titus, thanks for the info.

 

What about pedal photos with cowl steering ???

 

my pedal/cowl steering setup as requested above.

 

Hello, thank you for the pic, do you have a outside pic ? or underneath on how you mounted it all ?

 

subscribed!

 

I have a boxed A frame with a custom crossmember that I made to hold the M20 Muncie in it. Its basically straight across. I have a set of F1 pedals, as well as a complete clutch linkage kit for the M20 (bellcrank, levers, ball for the block, frame bracket, etc) The Muncie stuff is way wider than I have to play with, but can be modified. Haven't tried mocking up the F1 pedals yet. Does anyone have pics/examples of pedal/linkage for a setup like this?

 

I used a F1 Pedal assembly and a clutch arm of a 35 - 38 assembly.

 

We make these. Give us a call if you are interested. Thunder Road Rod & Custom 419-522-4712

 

Here's a new kit we came up with at RJays Speed Shop it's a firewall mounted clutch kit.

 

Here's a bump and a question for a great thread.
Why do you even have to have a residual valve (if that is what it is) in the brake cyl. bore IF it is mounted on the firewall above all 4 brake wheel cyl.?
I am toying with the idea of one of these master cyl. and instead of using one cyl. for the clutch I would use one for the front brakes, one for the rear. If it's true I need one in the bore than that means I need one in each? I just don't see the need, explain. Thanks!

 

Here's a hydraulic clutch and brake I am installing in a narrowed model A frame being used under a model T roadster. I like to make most of my own stuff but just couldn't come up with an idea that worked as easily as this after market item.

 

Drum brakes use a residual valve no matter where the master cylinder is located. You can do a HAMB search and find all kinds of explanations and arguments as to it's exact function; but it is for completely different reasons than a 2 PSI is used on disc brakes when the master cylinder mounted lower than the calipers.

 

"Drum brakes use a residual valve no matter where the master cylinder is located. You can do a HAMB search and find all kinds of explanations and arguments as to it's exact function; but it is for completely different reasons than a 2 PSI is used on disc brakes when the master cylinder mounted lower than the calipers"

So with disc/drum you would use them or not?

 

Many, if not all, OEM application disc/drum master cylinders have residual valves pressed into the outlet for the rear/drum brakes. If your using one of these OEM master cylinders on the firewall then you'll want the original residual valve in place.

-Bigchief

 

Bump.

 

it is hard to tell from the pics, but do any of you guys run a mechanical bellcrank with both levers pointing straight down? Can this be done and have the clutch work properly or do the levers have to be offset like factory bellcranks for some sort of geometry function?

 

Those levers can be in any position that works with your brake MC and clutch throwout arm. The geometry is in the length of the arms, and pivot ratio. Look at the photo in post #35 above. The levers are pointing down.

 

Just for shits & giggles, here's the setup in my coupe. http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com...ulic_brake_clutch_assembly_1930_ford_model_a/

 

33-34 pedals work just fine in a 32 K-member if that's all you can afford. And, the pads sit closer to the floor than stock 32. Something to think about.

 

Voodoo, you are the first one I have heard to say that. You mean maybe post #48? 45 has a juice clutch? I made all my pedal setup so not sure of ratio? I think the brakes may be 6 to1 if I figured correctly. on this pic it shows where the one rod will go, it is 15 inches from center of pedal tab to center of lever hole. Where is the best place to locate and drill the hole in the pedal tab for the most leverage? Or doesn't it make much difference?

 

Sorry, yes, post #48 is a good example. It's hard to explain where to drill the hole...farthest out on the throw lever will give you the greatest 'throw' but hardest pedal feel. Closest to the pivot will give you the least throw, but softest pedal. I would drill multiple holes to give you options to optimize your throw vs pedal feel. Not sure if this makes any sense.

 

I was actually thinking of doing just that

 

When space is tight, I use 35-38 pedals with a rocker arm on the brake linkage. It moves the master cylinder under the seat and allows some tweaking of the pedal ratio.

 

I think I may have goofed up somewhere on my big idea here but am not sure where. The clutch pedal with the tab where the rod hooks to will move about 1-1/2" at the tab and both bellcrank arms move about that much just eyeballing them, but the throwout bearing only moves about 1/2" and pushing the pedal down it moves a LONG ways while that tab moves the 1-1/2". Needless to say the clutch disc doesn't release. If I take a screwdriver and move the clutch fork farther in it does somewhat release. I am not sure how far the throwout bearing normally moves to disengage the disc. I don't know if you can see my pics clearly enough to decipher what I have done. It has to be something with ratio or geometry somewhere. I did just have the one hole drilled in the pedal tab, but I don't think moving that is going to change much. I just roughed in bolts to check the operation. I am open to comments, thanks

 

Looks like a simple fix. You need to change the ratio to get more movement. This can be done in a few spots. Lengthen the arm that is below the pivot point on the clutch pedal. It appears to attach about 1 1/2 " below the pivot point, add an inch and you will nearly double the movement. You can also shorten the point where it attaches to z bar (outside the frame rail). Either or both will result in more final movement at the throw out bearing. While making my linkage I drilled several holes and experimented with the ratio until I had the ideal pedal travel for clutch release. Hope that all makes sense to you. Dave take care

 

Hard to tell in the pictures; but the arms should all be as close to 90 degrees to the rods at mid point in the travel; otherwise you lose motion if too much on either side of center. To me the Z bar arms look a little thin, may be flexing a little too. Never really measured it; but it seems to me if you actually had the full 1-1/2" inches push available at the throw out arm it should work.

 

Out standing thread! Not entirely sure how I missed it for the last couple of years. If I can get some stuff done of the "A" I'll post what I'm working on here.

 

Can you send a template drawing of your lever arm you welded to the brake pedal?