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Technical 1932 frame with 8ba and f-100 box, header clearance question

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 37 Millrat, Jul 30, 2014.

  1. I have a question for a 32 guy thats already been down this road.
    I have a 32 frame with an 8BA and I am using a 56 f100 steering box. I am planning on running lake style headers with caps. I had to heavily modify the back tube on the drivers side to clear the box. I have about 1/4 (just under) of an inch of clearance.

    Is this going to work or am I going to cook the box?
    Please respond if you have actual experience or have tried a similar thing.

    Here is a pict of the chassis, I will get a picture of the header clearance this weekend.
    Thanks in advance. 32 frame with wires.jpg
     
  2. junk yard kid
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 2,717

    junk yard kid
    Member

    I've got a car with a exhaust that close to a steering box. So I'm interested to hear what other say. But I've noticed that the box doesn't seem to get more than 200 degrees when i check it with the temp gun.
     
  3. bensin_pelin
    Joined: May 29, 2012
    Posts: 1

    bensin_pelin
    Member
    from Finland

    Hi, i have a F 1 steering box and moved the steering box 2 1/4 inch forward in the frame from the original steering box hole. It works good for me and Reads hedders. All the best !
     
  4. xix32
    Joined: Jun 12, 2008
    Posts: 595

    xix32
    Member

    Are you using a stock `32 brake pedal in the stock pedal box location, on a stock "K" member?
    And does the elbow on the pedal run into the back of the block before the pedal pad is half way down to the floor board? Sorry if this is off your original topic, but I can't fiqure out how to send a private message on this new changed forum.
     

  5. xix32
    Joined: Jun 12, 2008
    Posts: 595

    xix32
    Member

    I have a 59a block in a stock `32 chassis. I wanted to use the stock cast iron exhaust manifolds, but they wouldn't clear the stock `32 steering box. your F-100 box looks about the same. I bought a pair of "Red's Headers" they fit perfectly and do clear the steering box by very little, but they do clear.
     
  6. Yes stock pedals in it now with mech brakes and K mem 32 pedals.jpg ber but will be changed to industrial chassis pedals
     
  7. Thats an option that I had not considered but I should have. That steering box could not be more centered on that back exhaust port. Thanks for the idea
     
  8. nitro29
    Joined: May 26, 2005
    Posts: 66

    nitro29
    Member

    Hey, Try working with the steering box and a starter on the same side, RHD, It can be done but just needs a little thinking. Roger
     
  9. I had a starter issue with another car and a header being too close. I just want to be sure the heat won't caues failure in the steering box. I your case cowl steering starts to look pretty attractive.
     
  10. racinman
    Joined: Dec 30, 2008
    Posts: 951

    racinman
    Member Emeritus

    Should not be a problem but like Cadillacoffin said use some header wrap...
     
  11. Ole don
    Joined: Dec 16, 2005
    Posts: 2,915

    Ole don
    Member

    I had a roadster built like this a few years back. I shortened the steering gear mount like in the Bishop book. That moved the steering box about two inches closer to the frame. I used straight STP for gearbox lube with no seal on the shaft and it did not leak.
     
  12. speedy pete
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 72

    speedy pete
    Member

    Am I wrong in thinking that with one exhaust turn near steering box or starter the temp would be lower than having the collector pipe close by?
     
    meengrinch likes this.
  13. Good point and with the Tardell wedge in there it adds a little to the length. But shortening the box would help also.
    Thank you
     
  14. Sounds logical to me. It is a pretty sharp bend in the header and it cannot be wrapped because the flange is on the other side of the pipe. I figure it is only one cylinder dumping into the tube verses the center exhaust port which has 2 cylinders that dump into one tube (hotter). The collector is pretty far from the box (lake style pipes).
     
  15. Wrap wont work, I will post a picture.
     
  16. steer box header.jpg Not fully welded but it just barely clears the box. cannot wrap because it runs so close to the header flange that the wrap would not be where I need it. Perhaps a heat shield would work though, I will get a picture of it on the chassis.
     
  17. revkev6
    Joined: Jun 13, 2006
    Posts: 3,350

    revkev6
    Member
    from ma

    1/4" is all I have on my A/v8 with the same motor, steering box and header dimple.

    in my 32 with the F100 box (and a 283) I did not use an angled plate, I ground the mounting flange at an angle as much as possible then spaced out the last little bit on the back bolt. gives a little more clearance
     
  18. Thank you, that helps!!
     
  19. revkev6
    Joined: Jun 13, 2006
    Posts: 3,350

    revkev6
    Member
    from ma

    forgot to mention, the Av8 has been on the road 22 years now!
     
  20. good time tested info, thanks again
     
  21. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,624

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Cadillacoffin's pictured flange is a positive way of gaining clearance. I fought the 'boiling F100 box" syndrome with a few customers' cars, albeit with Model A frames (as well as Deuce rails)
    I found the easiest method was just this, (moving the box a couple of inches forward is the 'ticket', but I think the 'A' drag link is short enough already. Unless you do the Rollin' Bones number, and make up for it there)
    Sandy Belond (Belond Headers) used to make a special left side header that wrapped around the steering box, but NOT an F100 box. Model A thru '34 was close, but it fit.
    A 3/16" aluminum heat deflector plate is a great 'period fix', (some were used on Miller and Kurtis Indy cars...) they can be shaped to artful dimensions, and attached to any number of places: welded tabs on the header tube, back bolts on the box, or a sanitary clamp around the bottom of the mast jacket.
    Build it so it looks like the car would be missing something if it wasn't there...
     
  22. Thanks, at this point I am leaning towards a cool heat shield between the box and the header. (My access to machining stuff is expensive) Making it look like it should be there is the ticket (like you said) I appreciate the thought out response and I will post what I end up with. "boiling F100 box" there is a visual!! (hold up guys I have to pull over and wait for my steering box to cool off).
     
  23. Here are photos of the actual clearance on the box.My plan is to remove (grind) some of the ear on the box by the filler, Fit an shapely aluminum heat shield in and hope for the best. steer box cut 1.jpg steer box cut 2.jpg steer bx cut 3.jpg
     
  24. F-head
    Joined: Oct 20, 2007
    Posts: 1,172

    F-head
    Member

    thats sad
    take the wedge plate outta there, doesnt look like the pittman even slides on all the way
    angle the box bracket, you can gain 1" of clearance, take a look at what Neal Jennings does to his boxes
     
  25. HotRodMicky
    Joined: Oct 14, 2001
    Posts: 1,783

    HotRodMicky
    Member

    Or move the box forward or back
    Looks ugly that way
     
  26. I don't know who Neal Jennings is. Do you have a link. I don't like the way it fits either, thats why I posted this question and appreciate your constructive suggestions. I am open to moving the flange .
    Thanks
     

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