My 1930 A Model build is in full swing. I started off with a neat old 1930 A Model Coupe. I tore her down, took the body off sold all the running gear. I have had the original chassis Boxed in put a 32 cross member up the front. A triangulated 4 link with a 9 inch up the back. I have disk brakes for her running a drop axel 4 bar front end. I have stuffed a 460BBF and a C6 up the front. I may have to move the Engine forward a tad as I think I'm going to have trouble fitting pedals and steering column in. If any body has an abnormally large Engine in an A Model can you please post a photo of your column going into the floor or fire wall, I need some ideas on how to run the steering. Here is a photo of where I'm up to so far. I'll take more photos during the week and up load them as I go. (Oh! the Stance in the photo should be pretty close to how she will look maybe a bit lower) Cheers Byron
Thanks Man! This is my first Hot Rod build, well first build of anything really. I have had some nice cars but never built anything myself.
The steering was a real tight fit in my coupe. Model A frame (boxed) 409, manifolds, 2.25 pipes. I had to use 3 universals and a heim joint support. The bracket for the support is welded to the top of the frame rail. The huge 7/8 acorn nut is actually a motorcycle part. Also, the motor is cheated as far to the right as I could get it, that helps.
Zeuglodon thanks for that. What sort of column are you using and how long is it. Could you get a photo of your floor and firewall on the inside? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
It's an Ididit (I was lazy). Was 28" - the shortest "standard" length they offer. I wound up shortening it another 2". My firewall is Direct Sheetmetal - the "smallblock" model with the shallower recess. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I have just found out about the steer clear product. If I use that with a ididit shorty I should be ok Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
that might do it.....I wasn't aware of that thing when I did mine. I'm not crazy about the ratio of the Vega box....I'm probably going to go with the replacement rack & pinion system offered by Kenny's and a bunch of other hot rod shops.
BTW ---- I'm really glad to see somebody building a rod with a 460. I consider this probably the most overlooked motor out there considering its performance potential.....
I think it's an awsome engine. A good friend of mine has a 460 in a 34 coupe and man that thing moves. So that was my motivation. The end goal 600+hp and to do some drag racing and just to have a filthy tire shredding machine. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Those tabs on the top on the housing are supposed to be vertical. And I hope the lower front crossmember isn't mounted how I think it is. I don't know what your rego setup is like up there in NT, but maybe you ought to make sure what you're doing is kosher with whatever system is in place.
X38 what problem do you see with it ? I'm new to this. The Diff moves through a full range of movement and does not bind in any position. I'm yet to have my first inspection and it only tacked up at this stage
X38, what are you talking about 're front cross member? Also don't get why the tabs need to be vertical as it's triangulated 4 bar. I might be missing something but your post isn't very helpful to Byron as he is by his own admission still learning and has regular contact with a rego guy Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
OK. This is not a complete "how to build a chassis' answer, but... The chassis should set-up at ride height -meaning with axles set at their stationary, under load positions - and the frame at it's desired finished rake. At the rear I'd ballpark about 3" of suspension travel. Looks like way more than that there. All pivot point bolts and suspension bars should generally be parallel to the ground. This is why the frame has to be set up at the finished rake etc. before you start attaching things. The mounts on top of the diff should be such that the bolts are horizontal i.e. parallel to the ground. For the most part suspension moves up and down and the pivot should be located accordingly. With the frame set-up as described, the diff in relative location etc., the lower bars parallel to the ground and so-on the front brackets that mount the lower bars are generally attached directly to the underside of the frame. There is no need for the crossmember and rectangular box section lowering the brackets like I see in the pic. UNLESS you are setting this up 4x4 style and that's another story. I would suggest you look at websites of Pete&Jakes, TCI etc and see how their chassis are set up. You can choose to completely ignore what I'm saying, I won't be offended. Here ya go, a pic from Cornhusker:
Cool I look into it and do a bit of research and once I get my coilovers ill see how much travel I have. Thanks for passing on your view on the situation. Cheers Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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