Hey there hot rodders, I need some advice regarding my paint job. First of all the story. Last year I attempted my first paint job for my car, a 59 Galaxie. I was working in a cramped borrowed garage. I was tripping over stuff trying to paint my car before the Summer ran out. I couldn't see very well, and also didn't have the paint gun adjusted right. It dried looking like drywall. So now this year I have my own garage with more room. I tried wet sanding and polishing the paint smooth in an attempt to save my crappy paint job. But there is still ugly looking textured areas and crators all over it. I have to sand the paint smooth again and start over. Which brings me to my question. If I sand it all smooth can I repaint over the exsisting paint with more of the same paint without anything weird happening? Or should I lay down some primer sealer first and repaint over that? Any advice from experienced painters would be greatly appreciated.
Read your paint can...it will tell you about recoating ...it will depend on the type of paint. You will have to sand out all of the imperfections before you can seal it anyway......
UOTE="Ricks Garage, post: 10529255, member: 129059"]Read your paint can...it will tell you about recoating ...it will depend on the type of paint. You will have to sand out all of the imperfections before you can seal it anyway......[/QUOTE] I think it'll be a good idea to not take chances and reseal it. It sucks. It's a lot more work. But it'll be a lot less work than resanding it, repainting it for a third time.
what kind of paint did you use? I'm not a big fan of building up materials, so if it can be sanded out without going down to bare metal or having to do bodywork, finish your sanding with 500 grit and just respray it. a little more info on the product your using would help.
[Qused a singleused a si I used a single stage summit brand Urathane paint from summit racing. The hotrod semi flat black. I'm not sure of the part number, I could look it up if you need it.
not familiar with the paint brand, but I would wet sand the entire car with 500 grit, anywhere you break thru, I would seal just that area with a good quality sealer, then respray the entire car, usually urethanes aren't that aggressive to cause any lifting problems, and it sure should be dry enough to re-coat. if you can sand it and it does not clog the sandpaper, you should be fine. make sure it's clean and dust free, you could wet the floor to keep the dust down, make sure you have proper ventilation with moving air, and wear a good quality respirator. lighting is also key. first coat should be a light to medium one, let it get tackey, then apply 2 more wet coats, using the recommended flash times on the can. to make life easier, if there is a break off point, paint the roof first, let it dry a couple of days and then just cover it up, this way your not climbing all over the car, less chance of dust and overspray and other mishaps. job should come out a lot cleaner. hope this helps.
AB Ed has it dialed in. Did you use a hardner with the paint? If so, recoating should be less of a problem but a sealer would still be cheap insurance. If you seal it, you could get by with 320# dry or 400# wet with a single stage recoat. That would make it a little faster. When you repaint, put a coat of sealer first on any sanded through areas, let that flash off for a few minutes, then a coat over the whole car. When you spray the sealer over the sanded through spots, you will find out if the paint is sensitive to lifting or wrinkling on the sand through edges. At that point, you can let those spots dry for a couple hours and lightly sand the lifting areas smooth (400# to 600# wet sand---very lightly and carefully mopping up the water with a clean wipe cloth) before applying the full coat of sealer. Sealers are usually sprayed "wet on wet" meaning you only wait 30 minutes to an hour of sealer dry time before you go to spray color/paint. The sealer will still let solvents from the paint penetrate, so like Ed said, the first coat should be medium wet (not DRY). Here's my Tech post on "Garage Painting". I think it's still relavent for this type of situation. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/paint-shootin-a-track-t-garage-painting-101.14597/ Here's some painting tips for the painter who's a little less experienced. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ys-painting-tips-for-my-buddy-eyeball.225633/ if the videos don't work PM me and I'll try email them. overspray
I was thought never to go more then two paint jobs on a car(the original paint and a new paint job) if it were me id strip it or sandblast it
Well, before I go playing computer "GEEK", can I use the edit feature and replace the links, or what other options do I have? overspray
These links should work for "oversprays" videos. The new- improved HAMB is choking on the code generated on the Photobucket web site. Embeding is problematic from Photobucket for HAMB. http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v104/overspray/100_0466.mp4 http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v104/overspray/100_0467.mp4 http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v104/overspray/100_0468.mp4 http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v104/overspray/100_0469.mp4 http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v104/overspray/100_0479.mp4 http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v104/overspray/100_0474.mp4 http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v104/overspray/100_0476.mp4 They will open in a new tab on your browser.
Thank you so much for all your help and advice. This is all very helpful.E="autobodyed, post: 10529462, member: 51284"]not familiar with the paint brand, but I would wet sand the entire car with 500 grit, anywhere you break thru, I would seal just that area with a good quality sealer, then respray the entire car, usually urethanes aren't that aggressive to cause any lifting problems, and it sure should be dry enough to re-coat. if you can sand it and it does not clog the sandpaper, you should be fine. make sure it's clean and dust free, you could wet the floor to keep the dust down, make sure you have proper ventilation with moving air, and wear a good quality respirator. lighting is also key. first coat should be a light to medium one, let it get tackey, then apply 2 more wet coats, using the recommended flash times on the can. to make life easier, if there is a break off point, paint the roof first, let it dry a couple of days and then just cover it up, this way your not climbing all over the car, less chance of dust and overspray and other mishaps. job should come out a lot cleaner. hope this helps.[/QUOTE] Thabk
I have always said to people when talking about paint that "your coating is only going to stick as well as whatever is below it" so if your paint is stuck, providing your do the proper prep on the surface it should stick. Anytime you have a glass like finish it is hard for a coating to bite into it. Like suggested, ruffing up the surface (sanding) will do the trick. And also like stated any parts that you may have went to bare metal need to be sealed. Priming over the existing coating does help in both surface and topcoat adhesion but doesn't always need to be done. And from the sounds of most of the other suggestions your right on track.
Sounds like a paint gun / air pressure / spray pattern issue instead of a paint problem. I've never shot summit brand paint. Without seeing it, if it were mine, I'd block the entire car and reshoot it, with the same brand paint. Flat black or not is your decision. If the craters you mention are fish eye you better sand it all off and reseal.
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