Technical Flathead runs like crap, need help near Daytona Beach

I have read similar postings on guys who just cant get a engine to run right. Here is what's up or not:
33 Vicky, 53 block, ISKY 400R Cam, motor city heads, MSD crab claw, orig Stromberg 97's with Stromberg progressive linkage. We have had the carbs rebuilt by Daytona Parts, new plugs, wires, fuel pump, regulator. Motor looks good but runs like crap and has since I got the car. Cap and rotor look good. Seller delivered it in the rain and said it was just cold. I always do oil and all filters plus plugs when I get a car and found the plugs were new so I am suspect this guy knew what he was unloading but will not return calls or answer emails or text messages.

Runs good until you put your foot into it then breaks up. We then did a compression check as plug 8 looked fouled and found the exhaust valve was not seating so took care of that. Compression good across the board.

Need to find someone withing 50 miles of Daytona Beach who is intimately familiar with Flatheads and has the old test equipment that can really diagnose this and stop guessing about what part to put on next.

Thanks!

 

An engine that nice should burn blacktop.There are some knowledgeable folks in Fla,some one should answer.Good luck.

 

Not much to go on, but it sounds like a fuel delivery problem to me. Try disconnecting the end carburetors and run the engine only on the center carb. If the stumble or bog (which is what I assume you mean when you say "breaks up") goes away you've found the source of your problem, the carbs. I'd look for a transitional lean condition when the end carbs open. Good luck!

 

How many 97's? The Carb's should be in go condition but Dayton can not properly jet the carbs, that going to be left to you. What size are the main and Power valves? If your using 3-97"s what has been done to the dumpers to modify them?

 

Try a new condenser.

 

Just goes to show anybody can paint up an engine.... Looks beautiful tho! Good luck man, it sucks when you can't figure something out.

 

That flatty looks beautiful!

 

My 8ba did that too. I change all sorts of carb and fuel things. I took points out and put accell electronics in all better now.Darrell

 

I had an engine (small block ford though), that had a similar problem. Everyone in the shop swore it was a fuel problem, turned out it was an ignition problem.

 

Missed the MSD part, could be the pickup in that. May call them and see if there is a way to check it.

 

Great questions that I need to get answers to. Thanks!

 

Sure is a good looking flathead though....

 

What distributor are you running? The original Ford or a modified chevy or other? Does the distributor have vacuum advance? Have you put a vacuum gauge on the distributor vacuum line?

 

Did You try posting on Ford barn there is a lot of flathead guys on that site that may be able to help you. I live in Winter Garden Fl, but I'm out of state right now.

 

I +1 the condensor. I left my key on once and burned mine up, ran exactly like you describe. If you aren't running points, still could be ignition.

The suggestion for fuel delivery and temporary cutting out the other carbs is also a good suggestion.

 

Before you do anything, have you tried to run it WITHOUT the air cleaners?
If it has a condenser in the distributor I would replace it as well. (one thing at a time)

 

had the same problem once after putting plug wires and chrome tubes to run them in started the car in the dark it looked like a arcwelder put the old loose wires back on ran fine

 

If you want to travel a little further than 50 miles, Russ Gagliano in Fort Lauderdale has been playing with flatheads since they were new. If interested, shoot me a message and will give you his information.

 

I'm not really a flathead guy but a friend of mine has one in his 40 sedan and was showing me the vacuum retard system on the stock distributor that was acting up causing similar symptoms.

 

Your original post says: "MSD crab claw". With no comma between MSD and crab claw, I'm taking it as something I'm not at all familiar with, and that's a new crab claw dist made by MSD.
If that's the case, then you need to get on MSD site, find their trouble shooting info and systematically go thru their suggestions. Also an ocilliscope analysis of the ignition system as the engine is run will help determine if it is for sure an ignition problem.
Good friend, Cabbage on HAMB, has a beautiful '51 Merc with a similar FH, except Mallory ignition. We were all over near Greer SC when it went sour and the whole group messed with it to no avail.
After being brought home on rollback, opening carbs up and close examination , he found a minute sliver of teflon tape that had found it's way into center carb main jet. Runs great now. But as a previous poster suggested I'd also try it without those beehive air cleaners first.
Please come back and tel;l us what you find.

 

Beautiful engine, but "All that shineth's not gold"...(just rubbing it in)
Dirty olman Dave has it right: OSCILLOSCOPE! If you're not getting 30-50 KV to the plugs where it seems to fall flat (2200RPM +++?) the scope will affirm that. It is an ignition problem.

That's what it sounds like, but electricity being invisible...only the scope can see it.
...Stated simply to spare everybody the usual sermon...LOL

 

I can't imagine a street driven flathead requiring more than maybe 12k to 16k volts at the plugs to fire and run properly. An ignition scope might help you find the problem but don't worry if you don't see 30k volts at the plugs.

If it took that much voltage to fire it's due to too much resistance in the secondary ignition circuit. Too much air gap or resistance between the coil contact in the cap and the center contact of the rotor, Too much air gap between the rotor terminal and the contacts inside the cap. Moisture or corrosion in the distributor cap, Extremely high resistance plug wires. Poorly insulated or improperly terminated plug wires. Overly wide plug gaps.

That being said I like the above suggestion about getting the plug wires out of the chrome tubes. At least it's cheap and easy to try. Instead of "If It Don't Go, Chrome it" this might be a case of "Chrome It. And It Won't Go"!

 

I overlooked the chrome plug wire looms, and I agree, they are just asking for troubles, especially on an MSD ignition with all the voltage available there. I still thionk those beehive air filters are a question mark also. What is the filter media and how much flow resistance?.

 

No, I came here first. I will try that and thanks for the heads up.

 

A friend just made blocking plates for the front and back carbs so we will try getting good results from the center carb and go from there but that will be after Louisville. We will limp around up there.

 

yes, we have tried without air cleaners. no change. MSD solid state dizzy

 

I will have to vomit if that is the case as we just installed another set of wire in the chrome tubes. I would hate to take them apart so maybe just grab a set from someone and hang them on.

 

Thanks folks, all great information. I am away on a trip for work this week and then leaving for Louisville the following Tuesday. We found a guy here in the area with a scope, actually an old Sun diagnostic deal like the guys relied on in the 60's...how many of these hit the bone yard...and taking the Vicky there on my return. I am going to try another set of wires outside the chrome looms. If that is not it then will block off carb 1 and 3 and see what goes on there. The three carbs were just completely redone and that made no difference.

I have been chasing this since February. Time to stop guessing I suppose.

 

To those who said beehives - BRAVO.

West it up with air cleaners off and it's now awesome. Air cleaners on and runs like crap.

Onto OTB Gear from Speedway.

Thanks folks - anyone going to Shades stop by and say hay.


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