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Banger A wont run

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by gotit, Jul 19, 2014.

  1. gotit
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 357

    gotit
    Member

    Looking for some help because I am truly stumped. I was driving my banger A one day and it just shut off like you turned the key off. I checked for spark and had none. I have since put in points, condenser, coil, cap, rotor, plug wires, plugs and an ignition switch. I have been through all the wiring and everything checks out but I still do not have spark. Everything else electrical is working and fine except the ignition.

    Any ideas? I could use a little help about now.

    Thank you in advance

    GotIt
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2014
  2. gotit
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 357

    gotit
    Member

    Where are all the banger guys
     
  3. junk yard kid
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 2,717

    junk yard kid
    Member

    Have you tried the screw in part of the ignition wire where it hits the dizzy? I can get corroded or the wire gets messed up where you can see it. Also the wire from the lower plate to the upper plate may not have any insulation left and is grounding.


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  4. Do you have a hot battery?

    Have you check your battery cable to make sure they are not corroded? HRP
     

  5. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,241

    RussTee
    Member

    Run a earth from the battery direct to the engine?
     
  6. gotit
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 357

    gotit
    Member

    The battery and cables were new in march when I installed the new mill. I then put the protective spray on them. I have 6.33 volts at all connections and I have spark at the points.

    I have 6.33v at the coil but I can not get spark from the coil to a ground

    HRP, what does that mean to have a hot battery? As in it is really hot to the touch?
     
  7. petritl
    Joined: Jul 31, 2006
    Posts: 949

    petritl
    Member
    from Marion, TX

    I ran I to a intermittent ignition problem with my A.

    It left me on the side of the road one night and we found it. The bolt that threads into the head and hold the distributor was stripped out. I found out that bolt was the battery positive connection to the distributor.

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  8. gotit
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 357

    gotit
    Member

    Ok. I am getting somewhere I guess. If I open and close the points by hand I will get spark on occasion but I noticed when I do get spark that the spark at the points is greater also.

    Mean anything to anyone?
     
  9. gotit
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 357

    gotit
    Member

    Ok. I figured it out. It had been a while of tinkering when I had time and the answer was so simple. The fuel pump I had wired in to the acc. Port on the key switch and it was keeping it from sparking. Why I have no idea but it did. It worked fine for a couple months and then decided it wasn't having it but I am back up and functional.

    Thank you for all the great ideas and suggestion
     
  10. How is your coil wired? Are you using the stock armored cable to the distributor?
     
  11. gotit
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 357

    gotit
    Member

    I am running the armored wire with the spring loaded end into the dizzy
     
  12. The Model A ignition wiring is pretty strange; the ignition switch is wired in the right in the middle of the coil to points circuit, so anything else wired to the ignition switch would only drop the voltage to the points. You're going to need a separate switch for that pump.
     
  13. gotit
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 357

    gotit
    Member

    I used the old ignition switch and put it in the wood floor between the seats. Works perfect. I have model a guys say it was fine to have it the way I did and it did work for quite some time. Very weird and a hard one for me to figure out. I'm glad I had the fuel lines off and was tired of the little bit of fuel spitting.
     

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