Just curious as to the approximate weight of my coupes body. Not the front clip. From the firewall back. Interior will be stripped. Going to remove the body the old fashion way, man power!!! Need to know approximate weight so I know how many guys to call to come over. First need to make a stand for it and a lifting/carrying cradle. Glass will still be in and doors and trunk deck will still be attached. Thanks.
I don't know what it weights, but the 42 Chevy that I am building (should be a similar weight) 4 of us removed the body from the frame, one on each side at the front, one each side at the rear. that was not a problem doing that. When the body there were only three of us. one on the front and two on the rear. They don't weight as much as you might think
I just reread your thread, and you will have doors and trunk lind on it. I would pull them off too, that is how I did mine. You will probably have them off at some time anyway, make the job easier when removing the body and have those pieces off
Brother and I lifted '39 Olds body with doors and trunk lid, but no front clip while his son put in sawhorses made wider than track under so we could roll frame out and do pan. We are large so I'd say 3 men would work.
Agreed. Removing the doors and rear deck lid if you can will help a lot with the weight. Then 4 guys just because the shell is bulky. Torchie.
four strong guys to lift it, two more to "pass" it off to, to get around the axle and an extra to "look out", pry and or detach or cut what ever you forgot.
As you can see, I too have a '40 Chevy and the body is coming off soon. Already have removed the doors and trunk lid and plywood. But, before I remove the body, I will stabilize the A and B posts so the door openings will "stay put" after I cut out the floor to start the channel. Diagonal braces too. Use light gauge 3/4" square. It is easy to use, light, but stiff enough for the job. Not too expensive either. I just (today) cut out the bracing from the '72 C-10 cab I just bolted to the frame after doing new inner and outer rockers, cab corners, floor edges and cab braces front and rear. The rectangle and diagonals of bracing came right out. I built it with the hope of reusing it for the '40 so I inset the rectangle. It only took a little work to clean the welds off the A and B posts...and everything remained true. I'm not smart or skilled enough to fix the resulting misalignment if I hadn't gone that way! Give it some thought. It gives you confidence that when you get the body where it is ultimately going, the removed parts will still fit. I know, this is not a great revelation to 98% of the folks on this board, but sometimes it is worth repeating...and doing it this way does not add any significant amount of time, expense or effort.
I took my 40 chevy body off the frame by myself. Putting it back on, I of course didn't want to scratch anything, so it took 5 friends.
Not to highjack the tread but could we get a picture of cleatus' car? I'm wanting to build a custom out of mine.
Floor jack, Couple of 4x4's, pile of concrete blocks makes it go pretty easy. When you run out of floor jack build a block platform with heavy plywood across the top. I've done a few cars this way, on and off the frame.
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