Projects The bucket of ugly! A de-uglifying thread...

I find that even doing that, the Sharpie wears off very quickly with cutting oil and such slinging around. The tape works very well for me, and yes it does get gunky, but I find that better that doing a hole oversize because my marker line disappeared.

 

Those backing plates are perfectly perforated - great eye.

 

Hey Bonesy! I saw you pull into So-Cal today, but I was busy talking business...( I call it kissing hands and shaking babies!) By the time I looked up you were gone!

 

I love that carb set up. I have the same intake but with Rochester 2 jets, and 2" offy risers.

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Which reminds me...

at So Cal this morning, I snuck in and looked at the carb kits they offered for the 97s. they have the typical kit from Mac's for about 30.00 per carb, and they also have the Genuine Stromberg kits for about 50.00 each. Is there enough difference in the two to really make the extra 20.00 REALLY worth it in the long run? I know what to expect with the cheapie stuff, just have never used the expensive stuff.

Anybody? Anybody? Buehler?

 

You know Chip I can't remember what kits I used when I rebuilt my 97s but I know I didn't pay anywhere close to $50 a piece for them and the needle valves although neoprene tipped were nothing special. I do remember all the sticking needle valve troubles I/we had in the '50s and '60 with 97s and my chrome tops are riddled with indents from being banged on by who knows what in the past, but I have never (knock on wood) had an overflow since I put the four of them together and I have run as much as ten pounds pressure at times. I now try to keep it down to four or less. I just have to think the new stuff is far better than the old stuff. I do run a good filter though.

 

Do you run a progressive linkage set up on your carbs Gary or is that impossible with them side by ? Chip will you be running a progressive linkage on your triples as I do ? Fred, I get realy good fuel ecomony out of my triples, which are the Rochesters, if I keep under a certain rev ranch which for around town driving is real easy but out on the open road, well you will get the idea.

 

No progressive on mine.

 

I can't do a better backing plate on my CNC mill, nice job.
One thing you do get with the genuine stromberg kit is the much improved ball type needle valve. Almost makes it worth the money. Check out Alliance vendors you might save a couple of bucks.

 

I tell you what Gary, just that little bit that I drove yours around at L.A.R.S. I was super impressed with the carb set up. I have never been in a multi carbed V8 that had a throttle response that nice before.

 

Yeah Chip I was pleasantly surprised when I got everything together and worked out how good it ran with the open plentom Horne. Guess I just got lucky and got everything right. Thinking maybe the roller tappet Isky cam makes a difference too. Make sure you do a search and get all the info you can before you start rebuilding your 97s. I learned a lot here before I started working on mine.

 

Chip, bought some of the Rustoleum Appliance epoxy as recommended ($7.47 a can up here in Canada) - I bought white, black and stainless (a nice, rich, warm silver color). Want to try the black on some steel wheels - what primer did you use (they recommend NO primer on the cans)?

They sell it in quarts as well - thought about maybe buying the almond and white and mixing to get a nice warm off-white for firewalls and such.

Steve

 

This'll probably provoke cries of out-rage, but personally, if I was doing tripps, I'd way rather use rochesters than 3 bolts. And they've been around since '55, and in common use on hot rods ever since, so unless you are doing mid-fifties or earlier, they may not be as "traditional", buut they are certainly just as period-correct.

 

George, George, George, Come on, think about it. If you had these three 97 tops and enough parts to build them would you not use them? 97s were still in use up into the '60s and they are great carbs if rebuilt correctly. Nothing would be kooler on his roadster than these. It's not about what is really best here it is what is koolest.

 

Well, if I had those tops I'd have to think it over...
But let me put it this way. If I end up doing tripps on an olds, I will be seeking out a 4 bolt offy intake, not a three bolt. Now, on the other other hand, if I had a Horne or Cragar 4x2, well, I guess I'd have to live with those antiquated 3 bolts...

 

Seeings this is the meeting place for all things T Bucket if anyone hears of a

Somebody's got to put an end to this. You T guys are having WAY too much fun and not spending nearly enough money. Your doing whatever the hell you want and not conforming to any period perfect era etc. I'm furious! (ps please let me know if you have a cheap glass t body because I want in)

 

Thats a VERY strange interpretation of what Chip is doing here...

 

Hey Steve,

I have shot it over just about any type of primer out there. This week's stuff I did over the standard Rust-O-leum automobile primer that is logo'd as fast drying and wet sandable. As long as the surface is prepped well and has a little bit of tooth to it before the primer is shot, it seems to stick to anything. I shoot it a bit closer up than the can recommends, but that might be because I'm shooting this in a place that won't go below 100 degrees for another month or two. The only secret to this stuff is that you have to let it dry for a week or so. When it stops smelling, it's ready to go. It says it dries to handle in X many hours... Don't do it! Don't touch it for the first 24 hours or so. Then, take it off of what ever fixture you sprayed it on and put it someplace that you won't be tempted to play with it for that week and you'll be golden. Just as the voice of experience, women hate the smell of this stuff. so keep it in a place away from them as it dries.

Once it is cured, it looks and feels like a powder coated surface. It's not perfectly orange peel free, but very glossy and nice looking. And, in my opinion, just about as hard to hurt. It has a much thicker coat than any other can of paint I have shot, it's not thin and wimpy. I have much later color sanded and buffed it too, and it then looks like any acrylic enamel paint that is out there. I would wonder if you were shooting it out of a gun if adding a bit of hardener wouldn't help with the curing times. The holdout on it seems to be pretty extraordinary too. It doesn't chalk and come apart like most canned paints.

 

Oh, a couple more things on the epoxy paint.... If you are buying at a large home store and they have a paint shaker available, ask if they will do the deed for ya for a few minutes. I did get one can of this stuff that I didn't use for a quite a bit ('bout a year) and it isn't super easy to shake. It has a tendency to "splatter" a bit when it isn't shaken well. The only other thing I can think of is it uses a regular round nozzle instead of the higher tech types, and I find I have to be careful that my finger doesn't get into the paint stream as I shoot it.

 

Just a note about 2bbl carb scoops / stacks of any type,I love how cool they look,but I also like to keep rocks an crap from off my open front tires landing in the carbs. Best thing is a aircleaner,but hay it don't look as cool as scoops or stacks,so we need screens in side the scoops,not just any screen though,brass door screen is best an it shound not just be flat across the top of carb=this cuts CFM pretty bad if its flat across, Make brass screen form over a ball to get a 1/2ball shape ,an clamp it over carb top inside scoop/the ball shape has a lot more holes for air/cfm to get in to carb vs a flat screen

 

Hey gang,
Kinda blew my brains up working out in the heat this weekend, so I spent some quality time yesterday and today reading up on setting up these carbs. I'm almost convinced that I am going to do a synchronous linkage for it. I found on Stromberg's websight CFM figures for these carbs, and the explanation that they were still rated on the same scale as a four barrel would be. Long story short, with just 150 CFM per carb, three of them would give me 450 CFM all up. That's a bit less than what my Edelbrock is providing now, but I'd wager that it would give better mixture distribution than the single four barrel. It makes the linkage super simple, and I never liked the idea of a single center carb feeding the outermost cylinders of an engine anyway. Seems a far easier deal to me to feed idle with all three synced to where they need to be.

I know the late model ideal is a progressive linkage with end carb's idle and power valve circuits disabled, but with the relative small over all CFM I just don't see the need for the complications. What do you guys think?

 

It seems that, intake design will be the defining factor. A 4bbl intake "looks" like the end chambers would be starving, but the insides are designed to compensate. I would pick a 3 carb manifold with flow design in mind, when it came to progressive linkage or not.

 

Seems to me Chip with the smaller venturies you'll have higher air velocities and better fuel atomization spread out over a wider plenum area should equate to Better throttle response , of course I'm reminded quite often at home I'm wrong in my logic .


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Kinda what I was thinkin' too.

 

Well you drove mine. Nothing simpler than one two barrel over two intake ports. No flat spot. Smooth acceleration through the whole RPM range. Despite what some call "antiquated carburetors" they perform flawlessly.

 

You could start with all three hooked up, then later move to progressive if you're not happy. It seems like it would be easier to do it that way then vice versa. You could maybe try to set it up to idle on the outer two and tip in the center? Who knows? I think that this subject could be discussed to death; eventually you gotta throw something together and give it a shot. I did quite a few "mods" to my Rochester 3x2 setup, which have not been put to the test yet. I cringe slightly every time I think about the headaches ahead of me lol. Only time will tell!

 

Chip
I run a "Factory" Tri power on my Falcon Ranchero. It is rated at 730 CFM total. 200 center carb, 265 on each end carb. That is on a 260 V8. Factory set up is progressive and it works well. With the small CFM that you will be running it will get good mileage plus have great throttle response!!

 

that WAS intended to be at least a little tongue-in-cheek....

 

Yeah George that was a shot.

 

Hey now....

I have recently seen a double male 10-32 heim joint somewhere, but have no idea where, any body have any ideas? Searching around reality ranch today I found a good sized chunk of 1/4" stainless hex stock that I'll machine up to become linkage for this deal, now I have to find the rest of the little stuff.