ok im not looking for dragster/altered im talking street legal t bucket with a cage(8 or 10 point) looking to see if anyone has done it I can't really fit in a lot of dragster chassis(at least the ones I have sat in) do to shoulder width and I don't have a tubing bender to build my own at the moment(could have a shop build one but at a price). and since the only two tracks local to me are NHRA/IHRA I figure that a t bucket could be treated like a convertible
We use to have a guy that ran one at the track I worked at.He had a full cage that was the width of the body (basic door car style cage instead of an altered style)IIRC it ran in the high 10's.
being its a frame car you have to have it connect to the frame, not to the floor with plates like a unit body . so might as well go with a full width one it also has the advantage of making the frame stiffer to keep it from flexing and tearing up the frame ( and banging yourself around in case its ever used ) the small ones which we call a funnycar cage still have to connect to the frame or crossmembers to make it work (A improperly built or secured rollbar /cage can be more dangerous than not having one ) . most of the alterds you see now days are tube cars underneith ( nothing near stock style ladder frames) and the SFi build specs for them is rather intense . I would get the Nhra tech book ( they sell it online or paper version ) for about $20 , if you build it to Nhra specs often Ihra will honor it , but not the other way around ( go figure) this way you do not have to deal with the "well he said this" senario as they will not allow it to race if it doesn't meet the tech guys interpretation of the ruling which is often the book . also you can find out if your car is illegal as some modifictions can make a car not race ,
from what I understand most car you have to tie the cage into the frame I have seen and or have had my hands in dozens on not so HAMB friendly sub frame cars(79-93 mustangs) that have had cages put in every one had tubing coming off the frame to meet the cage but that was years ago. ill have to see where I can get a book locally as both of the tracks "local" are over 2hr away
Larry Dixon Sr. built exactly the car you are talking about. He drives it to the strip, puts on his driving suit, and runs in the 7's with it, through the mufflers, with the windshield. Why? Because "he thought it would be fun".
Frank Mazi ran this T-Bucket before he got serious with Opels. It ran 10s. You can probably find some info on "The Net".
nice a little like a altered though but with lights I bet I could get it though safety and get it street legal but I still like the idea of a 10 point cage I think that way with one door it would be easy to get in and out and it would be more fitting to me as a t bucket is just about a 1 seat car anyway for me lol
This guy runs ANRA out here in CA. and this was posted on my local craigslist. http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/4517989052.html .
We built an NHRA legal T bucket, it is homebuilt and has been NHRA certified. it is all mild steel based off of a speedway T bucket chassis
now to stick the 351W I have in it or a 170 inline 6 from a mustang(I could get a 2.3 pinto too but these are harder to find now)
it dont matter what you run but that you have fun. I spoke with nhra headquarters tech today before i discovered this thread about this very matter [I still work part time at the dragstrip] the advice you have beeu given so far is correct get the rule book ,the strip might give you one if you ask. the cage has to be welded in period and on a t bucket i strongly reccomend wheelie bars; if the track you go to has any real bite there is a possibilitythat you could be looking out of the cage upside downwith areally hard launch because most buckets just dont have any thing to stop you rotating around the rear axle; 4 bolts to take them off so thats no sweat. from experience i promise you there will more folks gathered around looking at your car than any dozen doorslammers enough of me taking over this thread and thanks for starting it this can be good for the hamb and drag racing both
don't think for a second I would run something like this without wheelie bars I have been present when a few light weight/short wheel base cars have rolled over of course then there are times like this keep a eye on the red mustang(a good friend of the family) the rear tires leave the ground
well it looks like this project is not going to happen I can't find a engine that's good enough in my price range and since im starting on about $650 and that has to buy a engine/trans and a rear end its not going to happen
You should be able to do it with a donor - its just not going to be a super star drag car at that price point. You'd figure a guy who's been trying on dragsters for size would have a realistic budget. That's why you've gotten some superb input here. In all actuality, the engine and Trans is probably the easiest thing to change and why you'll find many a race car sold as a "roller". Build it and as funds are accumulated upgrade the power level. You can go 9 seconds on a snowmobile, cheapest way to go that fast & no pesky cage rubbing your shoulders. ,,, its still going to cost more than 650 bucks though.
Not to sound like an ass but, You need to get yourself out of the "I need it right now " mindset by your posts you seemed to know racing isn't cheap, I've been building my comp coupe going on four years, the most fun of racing is building the car, I started with a tacked together chassis that cost $950 , I look for deals , they are still out there, so get some pieces with what you have and start building your car, Look at my thread , it's alot of work but it's worth it, BTW I sometime have to go for months without buying what I need,,,, Tim Jones
$650.00, don't think so..... im like dragsled look for deals, swap parts, whatever it takes, less nite outs ran mine down the track last November after 5 years, worth every dollar and every minute, good luck , if you want it bad enough, it'll happen
My buddy is building this exact concept and he's researched it to within an inch of its life. Your basic safety equipment will kill a $650 budget. A T-Bucket is the same as an open roadster in the NHRA / IHRA rulebooks. Basic SDI harness with mounts are $100ish and you'll likely need a jacket and probably arm restraints. Be careful building from a basic T-Bucket kit. In some cases the thickness of the frame material is very thin and may limit you to how fast you can go legally and safely. Also, the ladder bars from these kits are not designed for banzai launches with slicks... your life depends on the heim joints...get the best you can afford. Best advise here... get a rulebook and look up the specs for what you want to build then make a plan and a budget starting with the Must Haves listed in the book.
I don't have 5 years I have a year I want this car ready to race for august 1st next year. there is no swap meets here or at least they don't advertise them there is no you pull yards that are going to be of use to me(most cars are going to be newer then 20 years old). the $650 has to cover the engine/trans and a rear end this way I have something to start laying out frame rails but at the same time I don't have time to get too deep into a engine. I understand racing is not cheap but id like to be under $4000 in total since a t bucket should be over 1000lbs lighter then what im used to making go fast(the engine that's in that red fox body cost over 30k btw) I should only need about 150hp to get me into the 12 second range. that's around what most 351w's make stock problem is im about 10 years to late to find anything good for cheap im at a blank
that's the thing if you look above im not running a altered style cage im going to run a 10 point. I also have not been able to find a NHRA rule book local and since the two tracks closest to me are over 2 hours away I can't just run out and get one
there's a event at grand bend motorplex called Windsor weekend its the big one every year as long as its running and driving im good to go it will most likely be in primer for its first race and then painted the following winter(when its not humid)
did not know we had a craigslist but im not someone who uses a Chevy motor too many people using them. well wish me luck but it still might not happen
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