Engine is an SBC with headers (but everyone already knew that). It cranks and fires up fine if it's cold, but after driving around, parking, then getting back in, usually the first time I turn the key there's a "clunk" or two, then it will fire right up. The vehicle is a 1960 F100. The negative battery cable was the first thing I tried, and it is currently bolted directly to the engine block, with another ground strap going off the same bolt down to the frame. I just shit-canned the old positive cable (4 gauge) in favor of a new 2 gauge cable. There has always been one of those heat shield wraps around it, and I just this past week added an old license plate under the strap holding that cloth heat shield. It cranks harder when cold, but I still got one "clunk" at first attempt to start after running an errand this afternoon. It hasn't left me stranded...YET, but I really don't want to pull into a gas station and not be able to get it started again. Is this a candidate for the Ford Solenoid, or does that "clunk" mean that I should look somewhere else? Thanks.
My friend had the same problem after driving 2 hrs stopping for gas---Would not crank---We used a small water filled squirt bottle directly on the starter, after using all the water ---It cranked ok.
Stock starter? How old or new is it? It might just be getting tired. May have started it's latest life as a low-buck reman unit. Headers or exhaust routed near the starter? Might try adding some insulation or heat shielding in that area. Or fab up a little sheet metal air deflector and mount it to kick up some extra air around the starter to pull some heat off it.
A lot of off shore rebuilt starters do that these days................ find a good rebuild shop and have it gone through. Explain the problem and they will know what to look for. Or install the Ford solenoid in a cool place.
The starter was replaced a couple of years ago, I remember because it was the only one Autozone (probably offshore reman) had that was in the county and I had to go to an undesirable part of Hartford to get it- I remember it because it was the only auto parts store I have ever been in where there was an armed guard posted at the door. I just didn't want to go through the hassle of doing the Ford solenoid thing (and throwing more money at it) if that route would clearly not work.
the clunk is from the solenoid bottoming out or seizing in its bore and not pushing against the button at the back of the bore ( the contacter for the starter motor ) common problem with headers too near to it heating it up like clay said they make shields for that that go over the whole unit that reflects the heat and allows cooler air to pull up under it , but you can do that and the ford solenoid setup too for a more reliable start .
Stimpy, Is this what you are talking about? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-help-starter-solenoid-heat-shield-gm-45629/5706971-P Maybe the problem with what I have is that it's wrapped around the whole starter/solenoid assembly, so once the heat is in, it becomes a blanket.
I believe it's the wire from the solenoid to the ign switch. Replace it with a new heavier gauge wire you should be good.
those I hate to say are useless and like you said hold the heat in , you need about 1" of airspace between the shield and the starter this is more like what you need http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=5781 we used the blanket ones and it only made the problem worse after a longer drive ( 1 hour ) as it trapped the heat in
if your handy at bending metal find a old coffee can and make one, thats what we used to do that or a tomatoe or High c fruit punch can
I had that problem and, after trying everything else, cleaned up the area on the frame where the ground strap from the engine was secured - no more problems. Easy fix, but a bitch finding it.
Thanks Stimpy, I may try something like that. Here is some more info...It's in a '60 F100, and it's the ONLY car I've ever had that does not have openings in the front wheel wells. The heat just stays trapped in there. In the past two days I got gas twice and I just opened the hood for 5 mins and it cranked up like a champ both times. Maybe it's time for louvers! I may also try the starter solenoid later this week.
Have you always had this problem with the present starter, or has it just started? Being a reman, I would take a look at it and see if is a shunt coil starter, or the lighter duty one. If you don't know how to tell, look where the little copper tab comes up through the starter case, and then bolts to the bottom face of the solenoid. Shunt coil will have about an inch long copper spacer and longer bolt. Light duty one will come through the case right at the solenoid face.
I like the Ford solenoid thing myself. I started using them on stock cars (notorious for very bad hot-starts) and applied it to what I drove on the street. I always had MY starters rebuilt by a local shop, maybe a little to a lot more expensive but well worth it.
I never understood the need for an additional solenoid (the Ford thing). If the original is getting hot causing the issue then a new solenoid is the cure. I had no trouble with a stock starter spinning over a hot 14:1 big block. I had the starter and block surfaces in bare metal, I had a large ground strap from a starter bolt to the frame with star washers under each end. Hot summer days, no cool down time, headers were 2" from the starter, no problems. After about 300+ starts the solenoid finally went south and I just replaced it. I guess I was asking it to do more than it was designed for. Also, the copper disc that makes the connection to the starter motor can get scorched adding a lot of resistance, or possibly in your case, no current to the starter motor.
The ford solenoid this is pretty nearly a much for an SBC using an original type starter. A clunk or a click? A clunk would suggest a bad bushing on the starter. It is normally the one in the nose cone.
I think the advantage of usin the Ford solenoid is that it can be remotely mounted. I have one mounted below the driver seat (10" from the battery) in my roadster immediately after the battery cut off switch. There is no chance of heat soaking in this location. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
There is another problem that we have not considered. it could be sticking advance weights in the dizzy. Don't know what distributer it is running but I have taken a lot of stock GM distributers apart and polished the advance weights over the years because of hard start problems also Installed new bushings in distributers that had as little as 30K on them. Just a thought.
The Jalopy Journal
