I am digging into the differential on my three window, and I would like some advice. The rear was a little dry, pinion feels OK, ring gear bearings look a little pitted. I could probably button it back up and run it as is, but I would like to have it gone through. Do you have any recommended sources, or know of guys experienced in setting these up? Or any other advice and tips? Thanks
I've seen a few threads on here on rebuilding early Ford banjos. Most of them are on how to assemble quick-changes, but the concept is basically the same. The codes for the pictures aren't working in some of them, but notes are just as important. Nonetheless - here are the links.. tdog - EARLY FORD BANJO REAR END REBUILD http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/early-ford-banjo-rear-end-rebuild.462776/ HemiDeuce - HOW TO SET-UP A WINTERS V8 QUICK-CHANGE http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-to-set-up-a-winters-v8-quick-change.225131/ Artiki - CHASSIS, MODEL A QUICK-CHANGE BUILD UP. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chassis-model-a-quick-change-build-up.97454/ the-rodster - CHASSIS, ASSEMBLING A '40 FORD REAR AXLE http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chassis-assembling-a-40-ford-rear-axle.61502/
Larry, Texasspeed, thanks for the bump and links, and I will study them. I would like to find an old pro that would mentor me......to carry the torch! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I rebuilt mine with all NOS parts, and upgraded the gearing. Once I got in there nothing was reusable but the cases. Fyi, cost me about 3k. I used this rebuild thread as a guide http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/early-ford-banjo-rear-end-rebuild.462776/
ouch...I wish the old threads photos were still there. I get the jist, and the order....might be a good rainy day project.
Gotta follow this. Tearing into mine in the next few months. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Also detail what you have! There are 3 generations of this, 2 of them in 1932. All rebuild and set-up about the same ways but have different specs for things like pinion preload and some minor architectural differences. In 1932, the great majority of cars had a rear recognizable by a round flange where torque tube bolts to banjo. This is internally the same as Model A rear, with same hollow pinion setup, but external parts are all 1932. Radius rod brackets on axle tubes are parallel with car. Very late '32's got same basic rear as '33-4 with hex shaped tube flange. It can be recognized as the '32-4 version by the short and slanty spring mount forgings. Radius rod brackets are angled toward center of car. '35-48 rears swapped in are most easily recognized by longer, straighter spring hangers. Several types of radius rod, some internal differences happened in '38-9 that affect some parts choices. My basic stance is to clean everything and not replace any gears or bearings unless there is a reason... new is not necessarily better, and in a light car the originals can run forever if they haven't run out of lube. Now I gotta go read the story you linked! Interesting car! (an addition: Mesh and carrier preload are set by the thickness of the side gaskets. Usually they are the standard .010s, compressed down to about 9, but measure them or keep samples for left and right as you disassemble. If all is good in there, you can then just put new ones in without needing to test and all will probably measure/resist right on assembled rear.)
I do not know why you took the rear end apart, most do not touch them unless they make noise, leak or the ratio needs changing?? They are not magic and you can replace the bearings, races and seals yourself. Ford Service Bulletins cover most of the rebuilding. Unless your changing the ring and pinion out for a later year (machining is necessary) it should be straight forward. The early 32 has a round connection point for the torque tube the internals are like Model A. Later in 32 the connection point is scalloped like all the other years. The early 32 use B- part number prefix bearings and races. The later use 18- part number prefix. I have a write up from John Deeds that explains the installation of a Columbia and the adjustments which are the same for a single ratio.
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