Woo, here's another Holley 94 thread from a new guy! Anyway, the stock single sucker Holley 1904 on my 1958 F100 certainly sucked. I was getting passed up by Honda Civics, and homie doesn't play that shit. So, the logical solution to this was to go with a holley 94. I thought I covered my bases: did a full rebuild, got the adapter, ran new fuel line, etc. Here's my situation: stumble after throttle, when the motor returns to idle. It sucks, and occasionally stalls me out. When I come to a stop, regardless of how gentle or sudden it is, I will stumble. I need to really stretch out the stopping process, because normal deceleration or braking will stumble and stall the motor. If I let off the throttle and put it in neutral or push in the clutch while driving in any gear, it will stumble, but return to idle. Hopefully. A quick tap or two on the gas pedal will bring me out of the stumble. Seeing as to how I was born with only two feet, this makes my commute to work in the morning a little more death defying. It turns out tapdancing between the clutch, brake and gas pedal really gets some shitty looks from other drivers. My fuel pump is regulated to 4 psi. My float level is irrelevant. I had it set to stock levels, same problem. I set it higher, same problem. Idle adjustments make no difference in the issue. The adapter I had ordered was incorrect. Carbs Unlimited sent me a Weber to Jeep manifold adapter and told me it was the "same thing" and that if it didn't work nothing else will. So, after some jerry rigging, its as good as its going to get. I later learned that offy makes an adapter that works. That one is on the way. Every HAMBer's favorite speed shop Vintage Speed has been really lagging on getting it shipped to me. My vacuum at idle is 20 hg, with the needle rather steady. Vacuum drops normally on throttle. Nothing unusual. Am I forgetting anything? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Here's an update and a quick bump: I did some tuning today. The accelerator pump is now on the "normal" setting hole. It was original on "lean". I am still pushing 20 inches of vacuum. After a cruise around the block, its still dying at stops. Still stumbling. I have tightened the living shit out the entire setup. There is no detectable vacuum leak that I can find by feeling around or with carb cleaner. I'm suspecting that my rebuild kit came with a bum power valve. I have had some backfiring from the carb, and I hear that can cause a ruptured diaphragm. I will have to wait for the new kit to come in. I'm about to just throw the old 1904 back on, which I am not excited about. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Don't know what your adapter looks like, but if the throat doesn't match the carb or manifold really close you can get a stumble. Also, are you using the original loadamatic distributor? They are completely vacuum controlled. How is the vacuum advance hooked up and is it working? Timing set to spec?
Does the Holley 94 have the spark control on it? Link regarding the LoadOmatic and spark control on these engines: http://classicinlines.com/Loadomatic.asp
I stayed up a little too late rebuilding the carb last night, only to find out that Vintage Speed sent me the wrong adapter. Bolts didn't line up too well. I had to shave it down a bit to get it to bolt up to my manifold. Other than that, the new adapter is a much better fit than the old one. My starting has greatly improved, but my stalling at stops problem still exists. I am still using the stock loadamatic. The only vacuum line I have is going from the carb to the distributor. I'm simply assuming its working at this point. Stupid ass question: how would I verify its in good shape? Also, I'm running the timing it came with from the field. I had no timing related problems with my old carb, but if you think its worth messing with I can bust out the timing light. Unfortunately my harmonic balancer doesn't appear to have timing marks on it. I do not think the holley has spark control on it. Its a very basic 2100, manual choke and all. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I can tell you that the load a matic is not working correctly with that carb, that distributor only works with the stock carb, as its not set up like a normal distirbutor. I forget exactly how it works, but its really funky, read the above link for more info. You can use a distributor off of a Ford 300 with some modifications that will ( I hear) work much better. Their is a thread here on the HAMB about that somewhere. Oh and the best way to get more performance out of a 223? Dual carbs and headers does wonders and sounds oh so good.
You guys rock. I'm currently stuck in an attic in 107 degree weather waiting for a wire pull, but I feel alot less stress now that I'm at least pointed in the right direction. I was always under the impression that the load a matic works as long as there is a vacuum signal coming from the carb. Is there absolutely no way to make it work or am I better off running a different distributor? Is there an aftermarket distributor I can go with off the bat? I hear things about pertronix, but is that a viable solution? I don't have much time to go hunting through junkyards out here, and they suck anyways. Never anything cool. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Ford 240/300 dizzy will work with a mod. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/distributor-mod-for-ford-215-223.748185/ Pertronix works great mode l#1261 Hit me up if you have any questions. I have a Ford 1959 223 f100, with lots of mods.
Awesome pigpin, thanks for the info. It's good to know some people from bako on here. I'll probably look into the pertronix model you suggested. Another suggestion a coworker with a similiar issue recommended to me was running the distributor off of the manifold vacuum. May offer me a little more drivability until I picj up the new distributor. Worth a shot, I guess Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Not too familiar with the Holley 1904, but the 2100 carb was used with a loadamatic dist. While the 240/300 dist. swap is a way better choice I don't see a working loadamatic not performing right. 4psi is a bit high for a 94, I would set it down to 2 1/2-3 psi. I would also set the float level lower than spec on it. Could be sloshing fuel into the intake when stopping. The spark control valve is the little power valve looking device that screws into the rear of the carb base.
SOME of the Holley 94's are setup for load-o-matic distributors. There is a vacuum port on the front of the main body (at an angle) that supplies venturi vacuum for the distributor. Do not use manifold vacuum with that distributor. Do you have a pic of your carb? Your power valve may not be opening when you need it, the stock one is 6.5, you may have to use a 7.5 if it bogs or a 5.5 if it is hesitating. Putting a 1/4 hex head bolt in place of the bottom base screw will allow you to remove the bowl with out removing the carb from the adapter.
57Custom300, I'll give it a shot. I'm at 1 1/4 on my float level. I noticed a little rattle of fuel in the float last night, so I may have to bust out the solder. I'll see how lowering the fuel pressure does. And no, this carb does not come with a spark control valve. I have a few that came with some rebuild kits. Rick, my carb does have a vacuum port at an angle. I'll snap a pic after I get off work. I think I'm running a stock power valve. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Here's that picture. As of right now, I have the vacuum advance plugged. Its made a little bit of a improvement. Only temporary until this distributor situation is worked out. The original vacuum line is disconnected and off to the side. I threw a brass pipe cap in the vacuum port of the carb. I may just time in a little more advance for the time being. Seems to be a little more drivable. Drivable, not enjoyable... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I'm running a factory Autolite 1v on my 262 with a Loadamatic and never had one problem. My motor only has 80k on it, but regardless, a good match from the factory.
So I got desperate and took a shot in the dark. I ran the distributor to manifold vacuum. What do you know, it isn't half bad. It turns out a buddy of mine did the same thing with dual 1904s on a clifford intake. Manifold vacuum worked for me. My idle is back at 900 rpm, right where I like it. Certainly have my power back, and the engine doesn't die when I let off the gas pedal while cruising down the road. It just calmly returns to idle, no drama. However, I still have my dying at hard stops issue. Kind of a bitch. But that really seems like a carb issue. I can't recreate the condition in neutral at a stationary position. I may jack up the rear tires and see if I can recreate it like that, but I just don't see it. Is there a possibility that this is a jetting or power valve issue? Or should I continue diverting my short, pathetic attention span towards the float and fuel pressure? Also, unrelated: Oreilly's had a sale on a cheapo stereo. Someone chiseled my stock one out, literally, with a screwdriver. So in the spirit of hearing something else besides straight pipes on my commute to work, I threw it in there. Kind of had to cut a little off the edges, but it hid the fucking huge gaping hole some assclown left in my otherwise pleasant dash. Don't get me wrong, I love pure, stock trucks, just like the next guy. If I could knock out the obnoxious blue leds all over the stupid thing, I would. But I don't want to invest a small fortune in the "stock" replacement stereo LMC truck offers. Also, that hole was pretty gnarly. I'm better off. And I won't feel shitty if someone breaks in and steals a 30 dollar stereo face. Here is a picture. Don't laugh at my tach. I'm overcompensating....for a small motor.... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
wow, that is a great idea. I have a few old trickets lying around I could use too. Might just make a hinged door to enclose the hideous stereo face. Thanks for the idea, Rob. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Alright, so just in case anyone else is having the same issue, I have found a solution. My 223 has been running like a top lately. First off, I had the braking problem. Deceleration caused the fuel to slosh forward in the bowl. Since I had the bowl side of the carb facing forward, the fuel was actually sloshing away from the jets, hence the fatal stumble. One solution would be ordering specialized jets that extend further into the bowl. Since I have a strong "fuck that" policy on ordering stupid shit, I opted for a simpler solution: flip the sumbitch around. Turn the carb around so the bowl side is facing the firewall. The fuel will slosh towards the jets on deceleration. My adapter allows me to turn it in different directions. You'll have to fabricate a cam for the opposite side of the throttle shaft, but I just jerry rigged mine. Next up, the stupid load a matic. Its a pain in the ass. If you want to have a driving experience that doesn't involve repeatedly pounding your head into the steering wheel in frustration, try running a new vacuum line from the distributor to the manifold vacuum port on the intake, ditch old hard line. It probably leaks by now anyway. I've been driving like this for a week or so, no problems. Is the mechanical distributor mod a better solution? Probably. But if you're balling on a budget like this honky, then you probably don't have the funds for it. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Great thread. Thanks for the feedback on how you solved your problems. The topic of where to source vacuum and stalling 94s seems to come up a lot. Every thread on these issues helps someone. Curing a stall due to a "backwards" carb can be a tough one to figure out. You figured this out a lot faster than I did.
Hooked to manifold vac your engine should run fine at part throttle. At full throttle, especially since you have have a carb much bigger than stock that will allow vac to drop quickly as carb opens up, you will have zero vac and hence no advance at all at anything close to full throttle... You have yet to say which carb model you have (94 is a huge family made over many years). Many of them have the double port on back supplying venturi drop vac at full throttle. You could try this hookup, which would feature the control the all vac distributor is designed for, but likely it still won't give any real high throttle opening advance because air is going through much more venturi area and venturi drop under normal conditions will be VERY low. Try a long pull up a steep hill...I think you will find you have poor power and a tendency to overheat once you have your foot into it. A real distributor with centrifugal and vac and the right curve will make it seem like it has 2 extra cylinders.
I'm already on the hunt for a spark control valve base. The carb I'm running is the 2100. Do you think I could get away with just swapping out the base for the one with a spark control valve? Or is it an entirely different carb all together? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Screw that. After a quick read, I think I'll continue looking for a new distributor. This load a matic is a load a bullshit. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Don't know if you've seen this thread yet, it has all the info you need about the distributor. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/distributor-mod-for-ford-215-223.748185/
I've seen it. Need to make a list up of what I need to buy for the conversion. The only thing that I don't have to spare is time. My truck is my daily driver, so it kind of sucks being in a rush to finish things. Not having all the parts at once really puts me in a shitty spot. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Hooked to manifold vac it should be reasonably drivable around town. If you don't need much hard pulling immediately, I would think you could just drive it until you get everything you need for a full-service distributor.
I did the 300 mod. Not able to get it to rev past 2000 rpm. Idle is pretty rough. I can see the tach jumping back and forth, and then evening out for a few seconds, and then back to shitting up. Do you think the stock ignition coil is having a hard time keeping up? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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