Has anyone made this swap? I have a 51 Chevy coupe with a '62 235 engine running the 216 flywheel and bellhousing. I am installing an S 10 T 5 transmission using Hot Rod Works adapter plate and crossmember. The rear differential is 1955 Chevy Belair. I need information as to what drive shaft will junkyard work.
There are too many variables. You will need to get everything in, put a yoke in the transmission, pull it out an inch, and mesure. Close enough, is this case, isn't.
Basically, I agree with Gimpy. Many years ago in HRM there was an article on installing B&M Hydrostick trans in most anything, and it included driveshaft info.Their recommendation was to bottom out yoke, and then pull it back 5/8". That said, when I mocked up my roadster, I used that method, and then a change in driveline increased the distance from trans to rear end by 3/4". I decided ti go ahead with the build with the driveshaft I had cut, thereby increasing "pull out" to 1 3/8", and see how it worked before cutting another driveshaft. Roadster is being driven with that 1 3/8" pull out now and I've felt no vibration at speeds up to 100mph. Driveshaft used for this was aluminum from a junked Police Special Crown Victoria.
It is better to have a new driveshaft made just for your application. Around here it costs about $150 and they supply all new parts and you get it fully assembled, balanced and ready to install. As far as 1" versus 1 3/8" I always use 1". On Chevy yokes there are 3 different lengths that will work with TH transmissions and if you use the 1 3/8" pull out you better be using the long yoke.
many companies offer them by the inch, I know speedway does. that might be your best bet, if you cant find a local. be sure you measure twice.
I would suggest that you get the engine,transmission and rear axle installed,then you can look for a drive shaft or have a new one made. There are just to many things like motor mounts ,different transmission tail shafts or rear end pumpkins to guess what would be correct. HRP