What is the easiest way to set up a .75 shaft to machine it to fit a double D u-joint? I have a Corvair column that is a solid shaft and need the flats to install the joint. I measured the joint and it comes close to 17/32" between flats. I guess I need to remove 7/32" which comes out to 7/64" from each side. (whew). How do I machine this off and maintain a paralell surface when I'm done? My questions may be improperly used and my machining abilities are questionable, but I usually make due........ somehow. I just wanna do this myself. Thanx
If it were wood, I'd do passes with a table saw with the shaft clamped in place. You can probably do it with a grinder if you're careful. I saved one of those columns a while back to sell because it was nice, plain, and had a vintage looking E-brake handle as part of it.
I've done it by hand in the past with a file. Just gauged it with a 5/8" wrench on the first cut and with a 9/16 on the second cut. Used a level to set for the second cut to keep it parallel. The same can be done on a mill. jerry
It's nice to have the piece you're trying to duplicate - easier to copy than calculate. First double check the OD - I've seen where a couple thou off there can really fool ya when you're test fitting parts. I'm NOT a professional machinist, but on the Bridgeport I've done it a couple ways. I did the math (after adjusting for the OD ) and then clamped the "bar" in the vise horizontal overhanging the vise(easier to measure). Supporting the part over hung from underneath (it will deflect some under tool pressure. Then a took my cut with a large-ish face cutting tool that had radiused edges - makes a nice easy cut. You can take measurements to ensure you're parallel. Flip the part over and set it in the vise again and repeat. Obviously the snag here is getting it set up right once you flip it. Another way is to use the side of your endmill and take cuts off each side without flipping it. Deflection will be your enemy here. The absolute EASIEST way was to put it in an indexing head and flip it 180 deg - change no settings on the vertical and you're guaranteed parallel and centered flats. A center support takes care of the deflection IF you have an issue with it. Light cuts may work without the support since it's a pretty short amount sticking out.
I do them the same as HEMIRAMBLER said, without flipping, haven't failed on the worlds fastest Y-block !
HemiR has it right. I would put it in my vice, decide what the finish thickness was going to be. Take a true .500 end mill and remove enough to get half way there. Move over the finish thickness plus .500 and do it. If i didn't have a mill it would be a lot different.
I gotta vote for the machine shop approach.You should have a machinist or two in your circle of friends, and in a shop setting this is a quick and fairly simple task. Good luck with it- safety first ( in the shop AND on the road) Mike from Mass. ( Channeling Joey Chitwood)
I figure if the guy had a mill he would not be asking the question. I did mine with my 4.5" grinder. easy squeezy.
There was a thread a while back from a guy that made a jig from a 2x4 then used a grinder. I wish I had saved it.
Yeah, I've got a mill....... gotta figure out how to turn it on tho. Just kiddin', I have no experience on fine work. I can whittle a club but I need help on some of this. The idea of milling both sides sounds like my best bet. Thanx y'all.
search the tech archives there was a great tech piece on how to to this in one of last year's tech weeks.
Thanx guys...... HemiR was right. Took a little off each side till it fit. Really surprised me as to how well it fit. You guyz rock on this site..... thanx again, Norm
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