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Technical Cutting and welding SS trim?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by cosmic12, May 31, 2014.

  1. cosmic12
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 422

    cosmic12
    Member

    I am trying to put 54 Belair side window trim on my chopped 52. Anyone ever done this? Cutting is not a problem but the stuff is so thin how do you weld it back together? There must be a trick I am missing and figured this is the place to ask. I have a guy that is a master with a tig but has never done this before and wanted me to find out how or if it can be done. Help? trim 010.JPG trim 006.JPG trim 006.JPG
     
  2. Get him some scrap. Let him do some practice welds with stainless rod. After a few tries he will have it down pat. Local guy does it and then it's up to you file and sand till it's smooth. Polish.
     
  3. oldolds
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 3,408

    oldolds
    Member

    ^^^^ yup^^^^^
     
  4. ebfabman
    Joined: Mar 10, 2009
    Posts: 505

    ebfabman


  5. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,442

    Squablow
    Member

    Nads was doing some of this in his '59 El Camino thread too, with a wire feed with stainless wire and a piece of brass as a backer, turned out nice. That's how I'm going to do it next time I need to. I've done a lot of TIG on stainless but trim always seems to get too hot with TIG, although I'm sure there are guys out there talented enough to do it.
     
  6. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,442

    Squablow
    Member

    Also, I've heard with TIG the smart thing to do is cut an extra piece of stainless trim down into thin strips on a shear or something and use them as filler rod, that way once they're filed and buffed, the metal all matches. I was just never quite fast enough to do it without overheating the pieces.
     
  7. tig master
    Joined: Apr 9, 2009
    Posts: 416

    tig master
    Member
    from up north

    A tig with pulse and a low amp settings starting at about 2 amps and going upwards from there should get it done for you no problems.Backing with copper if required and a gas lens.

    T
     
  8. Find 1/16 tungsten, don't know if they make smaller tungsten, thinnest Mig wire you can find or stainless picture wire. Set so you can wrap both pieces with wet rags, a few inches from the joint, to keep as cool as you can. Get comfortable and don't rush. Quench rite after welding, this helps retain the stainless qualities of the weld.
     
  9. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    As said above tig it using scrap pieces of the molding so that it matches and disappears.
     
  10. cosmic12
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 422

    cosmic12
    Member

    Thanks guys, we have tried using parts of the orig SS as filler came out ok but still playing with heat settings. Will try they copper trick. Just trial n error I guess , really hope we can get it because I think it looks so good.
     
  11. slddnmatt
    Joined: Mar 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,685

    slddnmatt
    Member

    Very low settings, the thinner the wire the better and you ll probably need to do some dolly work to get it perfect. Takes lots of patience
     
  12. strike a poser
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 399

    strike a poser
    Member
    from Salinas,CA

    Get some copper tubing and flatten it. After that form it to match the trim profile on the back side of the trim. Clamp the copper to the trim on both sides of the weld joint on the backside and using the scrap trim as filler pulse weld the joint closed. Sand and file to remove ugliness and polish. I think R&C did an article with Cole Foster doing this very thing. It was very recent and should be easy to find. If anyone can chime in with the title and issue of the article feel free.
     
  13. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,442

    Squablow
    Member

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