So I've been wanting to change from my 2.76 highway gears for a while now and managed to pick up a complete axle with 3.23 gears cheapish. Had been sitting covered for a few years with oil in it (or should I say brown ooz). Overall it seems pretty good, no bad wear patterns or clunks etc. and wondering whether to give it a good clean and throw it in to my case and run it. What would you do and what are some checks I can do without a full tear down and rebuild which funds won't allow. Am I crazy thinking I can just bang an unknown rear in?! Thoughts? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I would clean it up and just turning it buy had you should be able to tell if it turns smooth or not if it truns smooth I would stab it in.
Agreed- if there's no signs of metal in the oil, then just clean it and chuck it in with new lube. They're pretty indestructable in a stock car, so i doubt it's got issues if you dont see any glitter in the oil.
A; Is it a Sure-grip? B; If so, is it a clutch-type, or cone-type? C; If cone-type, check out the cones. They could be worn to the point of non-functional. Roger
I too fall into the "just throw it in and run it group. Matter of fact, I did the exact same gig with my Plymouth about 100,000 miles ago. GTS 225 does bring up a good point though. If it is a cone type sure grip, those do wear to the point that the cones contact the out edges of the cases. I followed an article I Mopar Muscle from about ten years ago by Steve Dulcich on rebuilding then by machining the cones and re-shimming. It has worked very well ever since, so if you DO have problems, there is hope.
So the "throw it in and run it" wins! I'm that way inclined just to give it a go. No metal and turns over by hand with no audible issues. I wish it was a sure grip! If I like this ratio I may throw a tru trac at it but for the moment just want to see what the gear change offers. I don't have another gasket but read to use a bit of rtv or sealant as an easy fix. Hopefully it seals it up no problem. Thanks for the advice gents
I haven't used a real gasket for a Mopar rear axle cover or center section since the mid 70s. Give the rtv time to set up before you fill it with gear lube and your good to go.
Note sure if this will work, a video via my Facebook https://m.facebook.com/story.php?st...9:mf_story_key.-5330834842858300382&__tn__=*s Nah that didn't work Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Yes 489. I wanted to show a video of the spider gears as they have some movement in them, not sure if the tolerance is okay Here a snapshot to show the gap, hope that makes sense Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Last one then I'm done So from the videos, is that much movement acceptable? This is my first with a mopar rear end so not sure if it's okay to run. Thanks for listening!
The back lash on the pinion looks OK but the side gear movement dont look good.The carrier may be shot but you may be able to save it with some more shim behind the side gears. If you take the carrier out I would check the back lash with a dial indicator and make sure you set it up with the same reading.
That's a lot of play on the spider gears, I would pull 'em out and shim them up nice and tight. Someone probably did a lot of peg-leg burnouts with that thing.
Thanks saltflats, it's starting to look like I should do this properly and get a rebuild kit and invest in a dial indicator. When you say set the backlash is that axle adjuster? Daliant, you are correct, evidenced by the bald tyre on the peg leg. Was hoping to just swap and go but may have to reconsider Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The backlash is the clearance between the ring gear and the pinion. If I reuse a ring and pinion set I like to reset the backlash as it was you stand a better chance of not having a noisy gear. The adjuster behind the axle flange is for adjusting the axle bearing free play.
Now's a good time to put a sure grip in it or one of those quick lockers that replace the spider gears on an open diff.
The Jalopy Journal
