Projects 52 Dodge B3B Hemi Project

Also for the electric fan mounts mocked up, had to do a little work on the radiator first but I think it will work well.




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I am considering making shrouds to close off the top and bottom of the radiator but I am not sure if I need to.

 

looks good but shroud would be nice too

 

I am not sure shrouding the exposed radiator would be helpful since air would not flow through it, merely hit the shroud as they would be flat against the radiator. If the fan did not already have a shroud of its own and it could be positioned away from the radiator (like it is), then have a shroud covering the radiator so all of the air could flow through it, the shroud would work. As it is however I cannot see it working, therefore I am rolling with what I have and see what comes of it.

 

Now that the forum is back up I can continue my "story". So, I have the radiator in, trans lines run, all of the plumbing, most of the wiring and think I am about 4-6 hours from firing it up. I still have to build the exhaust but before I can do that I need to adjust the Lokar shifter; it shifts but doesn't hit the gates in the shifter so it is sort of a mystery shifter at the moment.

 

That shifter is doing the something mine does. Never have gotten the trans and shifter to match up, but it goes into all the gears. Good luck, I need to get on mine

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at least I am not alone. If I get it sorted I will let you know.

 

Some pics





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Got a little more work done; carb rebuilt and installed, radiator hoses on, seat is.





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That looks very nice!!

 

thanks, it is coming together pretty nicely, just hope it runs and drives....

 

Hello from Canada, specifically Quebec. Here for a meeting but back home tomorrow. Thought I would post some more pics for the interested. I have this crazy thought that I might here it run this weekend... Still have to make the exhaust and finish up some wiring as well as bleed the brakes, add fluids, etc.








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Hey, just jumped on this build,
looking awesome!

 

Thanks, it has and continues to be a long road


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That cover on the seat was interesting, generic seat cover from O'Riellys that was designed for a full size truck seat. I took something hog rings and tightened it up considerably, I think it turned out well.


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Going to try and get the truck running over the long weekend, this should be interesting.


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Got the exhaust finished yesterday, I think it turned out pretty good, despite being a truck it was a challenge to tuck it all up there and then get the tailpipes where I wanted them.

 

so, I got most everything hooked up, oil added and tried to see if it would turn over. That is when I found out something was wired wrong as the starter would not engage. thought the starter was bad, but after having it tested that wasn't the case. removed the positive cable and replaced it (after reinstalling the starter), and then it turned over, but would continue to when the key was released. After about 2 hours of research I discovered that the wiring diagram was labeled wrong; it had the coil positive wire connected to the S terminal of the relay (small screw in the center with the slide under cap) whereas it should be connected to the "I" terminal or the #2 position on the switch. I will correct this tomorrow and see what problem is next....

 

It has been really nice following your build and I am looking forward to that first fire up. I just fired up a 392 hemi that I put in a m43 army ambulance and it was a great feeling to hear it run after all that work. Your truck is coming along really good.

 

appreciate the comments. Unfortunately, I seem to have an issue as the engine doesn't build any oil pressure, additionally I seem to have a distributor/intermediate shaft issue as the distributor "wobbles" when turning over. I have a very good feeling that the engine is going to have to come back out.

 

could those 2 issues be related? after all the distributor/ intermediate shaft drive the oil pump (if i recall corectly)

 

" Unfortunately, I seem to have an issue as the engine doesn't build any oil pressure, additionally I seem to have a distributor/intermediate shaft issue as the distributor "wobbles" when turning over. I have a very good feeling that the engine is going to have to come back out."

What is the dizzy wobble? bushings in the dizzy itself? Or is it not fitting to the int shaft right? How's the int shaft bushing? W/O going back through the Thread...what Oil Pump/Int shaft/dizzy?

 

first; yes both issues are definitely related as the distributor seats into the intermediate shaft which seats into the oil pump.

Second; really not sure about the wobble part, I do not think it Is the distributor itself as the whole housing is moving, therefore I am pretty sure the intermediate shaft is not running true or is climbing up the cam gear causing the distributor to move up at a certain point looking like a "wobble".

I am going to pull the intake and valley pan which will let me see what the shaft and distr. are doing and go from there. I also intend to try and manually spin the pump with a drill to see if I can get some oil pressure going to determine if the pump is working.

 

You should have run up the oil pump before attempting to start. There's 2 points where one rocker oils & the other one @ the other point. One guy running the drill & one very slowly turning it over with a breaking bar. As asked before...OEM or HH O/P, OEM or HH int. shaft, OEM/LA dizzy? Obviously shouldn't even need the dizzy clamp for things to stay in place.

 

with the configuration I have, turning the oil pump with a drill was a challenge if not impossible with the intake on. I pulled the plugs to eliminate compression and make it easier for the starter. I am using a HH modified 340 oil pump, SBM electronic distributor and a intermediate shaft sourced from Quality (Gary).

 

there is a question of a check valve in the back of the block, it had one originally which I removed when I disassembled the engine. I purchased a new one from HH but it would not fit. I was under the impression that using a modern oil filter system and after talking to gary that I didn't need the valve.

 

W/O the anti-drain back valve or the solid block off the oil would be bypassing the filter. Where the spin on filter has/should have an anti-drain back valve you don't need the OEM one, but you still need to block the channel/hole. That shouldn't keep you from making oil pressure. This plug/anti drain back check ball is under the Main Bearing Cap. Did the galley plug behind the dizzy get put back in? There's the one on the back of the block & a 2nd one across the dizzy area that actually opens up the oil galley for cleaning. Use a small mirror & see if it is in place.

 

Good luck with the oil pump....Where you got the int shaft from Gary it should be the right length. Did you leave the dizzy shaft on the LA dizzy OEM lenth or did you cut & lengthen? I'd think you could have gotten a longer priming rod.

 

There is a question as to whether or not the int shaft connects to the oil pump...I do not know what is required when using a modified M-72 and perhaps this is an issue. My shafts are all assembled around the stock pump configuration and are only 'stretched' above the gear.
As to the block, this particular 330 was not drilled through...it had just the anti-drain back portion of the assembly. This is not common on 330-341 but I have seen many of the small Dodge and small DeSoto this way.

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