Yes, a Spal 16". I run a sense wire from the gauge to a Dakota Digital fan controller. That is a high impedance circuit so it is not a problem. Motor is a 350" with 177" blower. Gauge gave same false reading with 396 and blower.
I just went through this with my wagon. It got hot sitting in traffic but was fine while driving. Make sure the fan is pulling air through the radiator towards the engine. If it's blowing out through the grill shell it's backward (unintentionally tested this theory the other day). In my situation it was the timing being badly off. I set the timing, retuned the carb, and moved the vacuum advance to the manifold vacuum port on the carb. Runs great and 190 in traffic on a hot day.
Just started it with cap off and lots of air came out fan came on about 185 and temp peeked out at 195 then dropped thermostat didnot open much then closed . Hope this fixed the problem Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Don't really remember on the 16" Spal fan. Think it's in 2000 cfm range. Have had it on the OFT for 14 years now. Works great and my 29 AA one ton dually pulls a 23' 5th wheel RV. With 396 pulled a 37' 5th wheel. Picture's in the AA thread. posts 13-16 added comments on post 19 &22 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/model-aa-tt-truck-picture-thread.874230/#post-9637235 2024 per summit; http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spu-ix-30102049/overview/
I too was going to suggest checking the timing. Make sure your harmonic balancer and timing marks are cohesive.
No, don't change to a 160, won't make it run any cooler. Rating on a thermostat is just a set point that makes the engine come up to that temperature before it opens completely. After that it is condition of cooling system and capacity that determines how cool you are going to get it to run. As has already been stated there is a lot of BS info distributed along with the good on forums like this.
Changing to a 160 degree thermostat will not change anything, except it will open sooner when warming up. If you are already running at a temp higher than the opening temp of the thermostat , how is that going to change anything? Only way it will make a difference is if your cooling system is capable of actually cooling it down to a temp below the opening temp of the thermostat. I would check your radiator for cold spots even though it is new. If you didn't start off with a clean cooling system when you put the new radiator in it could have a bunch of crud from the block starting to clog it up. Touch the center of the radiator core with your hand and see if it's hot or cold.
So far driving and letting it idle in driveway goes to 195 then back down so I think it's fixed . Thanks guys for all the help Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
My biggest enemy on SBC engines has been "Air Pockets" Burp it and burp it again, run a 160 or a 180 degree thermostat and maybe burp it once more. Solved my issues. Shroud is a definite item also.
Those electric fans usually have a shroud built into them. I think you mostlikely fixed it with burping the system. Jay
Do yourself a favor and check distributer vacuum advance and timing Finally did new Vac advance on my 327 and has run 10-15 cooler ever since
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