Hello All, I just pressure washed a 350 motor we pulled out from a '70 Monte Carlo. We fired it up before we pulled it out and it sounded ok. I am going to be putting it into a '47 Chevy Fleetline car. I am rebuilding the motor because I do not know the history behind it, plus, I want to upgrade it with modern stuff for aethstetics and performance. Here is my question. What kind of intake manifold, carburator (Demon?), cam, etc etc should I get? PLease let me know, thanks!
I'd use a kit from http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=1668 if your machinist doesn't mind you bringing your own parts. Flat tops will keep you at 9.3 if you have small chamber heads. If they are big, get .1 popup for 9.3. Probably the 284* cam as it's 112* separation so good idle. If it's a 4 bbl and you don't want to fool with the stock carb, get an Edelbrock. There's not enough HP difference to change intakes. If it's not, a Power Plus 180* and 1850 Holley from Northern is another $385. You did mention aesthetics and the first items would be a multi carb intake, though. And a set of Olds valve covers.
The 350 is the easiest and most "done" motor ever. I can go just about anywhere and "exchange" for a shortblock for around $600, longblock around $800. Do a compression check and leak down. If OK run it.
If it's the original 1970 engine, and is a 4 bbl. model, you've got a good basis for a street engine. 1970 300hp 350 heads are just a more modern version of the '60s "fuelie" heads, except with bolt boss provisions on the end of the castings for power steering pump/ a/c brackets. Don't trade it in as a core for a reman!
Ditto. If this is what it is, just do a basic rebuild and stab in a cam that is ~215-220 deg @ 0.050 and 110 LS... something like the Comp HE268, or XE262. I'd rebuild and keep the stock Q-jet and add a Q-jet RPM intake. Should be a strong running SBC with good street manners.
Originally Posted by Duster Buy a new GM Motor in a box and be very happy. It's all new and may be less money in the long run. REALLY?!?!? A new, in the crate motor costs less than the labour to rebuild an old one, not to mention the time. PLUS, you won't run into people who can't do this or that right, and fuck up your rebuilt motor to the tune of your dollars. Price 'em out, you'll see that it's the Gold Chainers who have their motors built, because only they can afford it. Cosmo
Advice? Give us an idea what you are shooting for. Do you want 300hp? 500? Single carb? Dual quads? Are you trying for something that sounds radical or idles smooth? Is fuel economy a concern? Saying "build me a SBC" is like saying "build me a hot rod" because there are infinite ways and opinions on what to do. I'd say find a plan and stick with it. Taking advice from too many people will get you going in too many directions. Don't spend money twice!
I used the comp cams xtreme energy 268 in an el camino I was happy with it good sound also. Really depends what you want to do with the car. I say duel plane intake 650 cfm carb and the 268 cam you should be in business. If you want to get some bang for the buck vortec heads would be nice.
I'd run a nice 280 duration cam, nice idle and you can still pull enough vacuum for power brakes. Maybe put a Performer Carb 1406 and a Performer intake and then dress it up with some chrome. You've got a decent starting point with that engine, so unless you want to get crazy, I'd just do the basic upgrades and and run it. Nik
Thanks for pointing this out! I want a STOCK, street engine. No 1/4 drag, or anything like that. I am coming from a straight 6, 216cui 90 hp motor! So, the reason for the V8 is to keep me in the freeway cruising with the rest of the crowd. I will be using a 700R4, if this helps. Does anybody know what the stock hp would be on my motor coming off a '70 Monte?
So do you think, in your opinion, that getting down to the bare block to get it magnifluxed isn't necessary? I ran the motor and it sounded ok. I am not certain how many miles it has and if there are any issues with the block or heads. Are Barry Grant Demon's an overkill? I was told they were easy to maintain...less things to fiddle with. Thanks.
Aeroman, I would do as several suggested, keep the compression down so you can run on cheap pump gas, keep the cam around 220 @ .050, and an alum intake with single four. The Edelbrock performer series of intakes, cam and carbs are a good combination that are matched and dyno proven to work together. I have had good experience with the performer rpm manifold, and the AFB-style 750 carb. The Demon carbs are fine as well, get the electric choke. If you run later model vortec heads be aware that the intake bolt pattern is different, you need vortec specific intake to match. Your stock heads can be rebuilt and give good performance. Here is some extra advice. If you have the rest of that Monte Carlo, there are several parts on there worth saving and turning for some profit. The spindles and disc brakes will fit any 67-69 Camaro, 68-73 Nova, or 64-72 Chevelle (or any of their respective GM clones). The 12-bolt rearend is worth money as well, it will fit any 64-72 Chevelle and clones. The trans from that car should be a turbo 350 and has some value as well.
Magnifluxing the block is the first thing a competent engine rebuilder is going to do. They want to make sure of that before investing time machining the block at all.
Stock hp was 250 for the basic 350 (probably 2bbl) The upgraded 350 put out 300hp. As far as carbs go... ask 3 people and they will give you 3 different answers. (kinda like what brand spark plug to use) For you, I would suggest an Edelbrock 600. They are supposed to 'hold a tune' better. Meaning, once you get the carb set, it stays. Holleys and Demons (essentially the same carb) are better for performance, but are finicky. I personally use a Demon, but its on a 425 horse hydraulic roller motor. It pulls nice up to 7000 rpm. And you may want to check the heads for hardened valve seats. If its all origional, it will need some.... otherwise it'll be a smoker.
Thanks fellas. I am going to get a shopping list together and maybe get my stuff off SUMMIT RACING???? Or?????
ug... don't do that... buy local. Don't trust local prices or their ability, PM me and I'll give you part numbers and prices you could expect to pay. No one local, PM me and I'll get you to someone who can help. DON'T BUY MAILORDER. Mike
I bought a stroker Ford kit from Northern and everything came quick and as expected. I even ordered pistons they didn't list. As I said the only consideration is your machinist. Mine works out of an old paper catalog type auto parts run by an old guy that has been helping me for 30 years. I throw what I can their way, but the end will probably come this year. But some times, like a stroker kit, you have to mail order. Also be aware that PAW will sell you the same cam as Edelbrock for half price so know your parts. My last engine used a Melling cam as they carry these. They have the good grinds in the back of the catalog.
Aeroman- the Northern Auto Parts kits are NICE-and if you upgrade on the gaskets and add a 1973 Z-28 350 horsepower 350" camshaft- you will end up with an engine that will exceed the stock mileage/driveability of the lower HP engine you have now.....that O/D tranny will pull the guts out of the lower h-power setup. also that cam I mention is for an auto trans and requires no convertor change-use a 600 Edelbrock with electric choke and it should do fine on emmissions too.
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