Hello All, Looking for some advice...I'm running a 56 F100 with a 223 and 3 three on the tree. I had the flywheel turned, installed a new clutch and pressure plate, installed a new drive shaft, and rebuilt and installed a 3 speed overdrive. It's been running very well since, but I have this recurring, very violent vibration or chatter occasionally when releasing the clutch for 1st gear. With very high RPMs or very slow release when engaging the clutch i can avoid the issue. Would any one have any thoughts as to what the source of the problem might be?
I replaced them when installing the 3 spd OD, but will certainly check them to ensure they haven't loosened up. Thanks for the suggestion.
How many mechanics bother to put a dial indicator on the flywheel face, both before and after having it cut? If the crank flange is out just a couple of thousands, the outer extremes of the face will be out a mile.
Hmmmm......i don't know for sure, but can find out. It wasn't that bad to start with and looked okay when finished, but maybe I didn't know what could hurt me at that point.
It wasn't a deep resurface from what he told me when he did it. Other than when initially starting off, I don't feel any vibrations even at high RPM on the highway.
I don't know the correct name for them, but the little springs in the clutch disc missing or broken, clutch plate in backwards?
I'm gonna watch this thread real close, as I have the exact same situation on my model a truck. I have a stock flathead, with saginaw four speed, with re-surfaced flywheel, new clutch and pressure plate, new driveshaft, same as your vehicle. Exact same problem. Violent shaking when letting out the clutch, but if I let it out very slowly or rev the engine up there is no vibration. Mine is definitely NOT a motor mount problem. I replaced the motor mounts with stiffer ones, and cranked them down really tight and it made no difference. I can let the clutch out very slow, but not in traffic, as people start honking their horns behind me. But if I do it that way, when there isn't any traffic around, it just idles away no problem at all. Rev it up and there is no problem. I have no vibrations at speed, that I can feel in the driveline. I had a machinist cut a bunch of weight off the flywheel, but not sure if he did it with a lathe or surface grinder. The clutch I have was built by a clutch builder, with the saginaw splines and the original flathead style springs in the centre. Anyway, sure hope you can solve your problem as it might just cast some light on mine.
Installed new clutch. Pretty sure it was installed with correct orientation. Clearly I should remove trans and check clutch and flywheel. Should I have any concerns with trans cluster gear clearances?
Did you install a new pilot bushing when you replaced the clutch? Also might want to take a look at the clutch pedal linkage for worn parts or any binding.
did you wash the face of the flywhel and presure plate? new pressure plates have a coating to stop rust. Is it hard to engage first? could be someone let the box hang on the driven plate whilst installing, this will bend the center of the drive plate and cause issues (it runs out of round)
I had this same issue on a 1976 Ford F100 I bought new. It was a 302 /3 speed. Ford could not fix the problem using Ford clutch parts . A mechanic recommended replacing the Ford clutch with a Borg Warner clutch which he did....problem solved.
Did you have this issue prior to doing the Clutch? If so tell us about your rear leaf spring set up. Yes the two can be related. The Wizzard
Years ago I had a similar problem. A mechanic friend of mine said to replace the rebuilt clutch with new parts. I did and the problem went away.
Gear oil on the clutch plate. I ran into the same with my Buick 264 3 on the tree. First gear shudder. If I feather it and high revs I can avoid the shudder. I dropped the trans and found the entire assembly covered in gear oil. Replaced the parts and fixed the leak. Works great.
Quite possible since the problem is new since the clutch change. I used to use only new Borg Warner discs and would use a good rebuilt clutch cover if it was also BW or Perfection American (poor man's Zoom clutch). Bob
Okay. Thanks for all the suggestions. I will plan to remove the inspection cover to look things over and/or drop the trans to get into it deeper. I didn't have this problem before replacing the clutch, pressure plate, pilot bushing, turning the flywheel, and installing new drive shaft. Rear springs are the original set up. Everything appears tight and correct on the springs and shackles.....shackle bolts and bushings didn't appear to have unusual or excessive play or wear when I checked everything out over this winter. I will look closer when I get the jack and stands under it.
Hmmmm....no, I made sure it was clean and free of oil, but I didn't wash it. Will do that differently next time. Gears, including first, all shift easily. I rebuilt the trans so am wondering if too much play on the cluster shaft could do this. I installed the trans myself and used a trans jack and didn't hang it (without the jack and trans-to-bell housing bolsts).
Was any of this stuff rebuilt as opposed to brand new? I had this occur twice in the past on a new clutch install - once with a clutch disc with broken springs in the center and another time with broken springs in the pressure plate.
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