Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects finally got my long desired 34 3 window

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by hotrodderhaag, Jul 19, 2013.

  1. Mat Thrasher
    Joined: Nov 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,168

    Mat Thrasher
    Member

    Theres nothing wrong with a model 40 sedan. Hope it works out for you!


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  2. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,140

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    Brian
    Correcto... Flathead guys, chill. It's not permanent . I was looking at my budget till speed week of 2015... There isn't a spare 8 grand for what I had planned . Not saying a flatty is expensive or unreliable. The one I am building is expensive as hell! And it will be an animal when it's done . But this little 1966 327 small journal is gonna carry me to Bonneville an back for my first time worry free.. It's been totally rebuilt. I picked it up for next to nothing from a good friend. Brought it home and tore it all down. Went through every inch of it. It's almost a new engine. And for less than a grand, i purchased everything to set it in an go. Ram horn manifolds, tri five 3 bolt starter, old school mallory dual point dizzy, old school 12v generator. Wilcap adapter. Everything!
    This is what started it, my $40 swap meet find :
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1397765234.513043.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1397765245.316529.jpg
    Then my $450 327 with a new gasket set and a mallory dizzy
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1397765284.944875.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1397765312.787838.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1397765325.220123.jpg

    Now. I still need a good Rochester 2 jet 2 barrel with the 3 1/4 bolt spacing cause the one I got is newer and it's 3 3/4 ..
    This engine will be all black. A simple... " leave the hood closed and blow by people" kind of engine. I also picked up a nice older t5 with mechanical speedo. But that's not going in. Not yet anyways. I wanna run the 39 trans and torque tube . So when my flathead is done , it can slide right back down in.
    Chevy guys, I'd prefer a flatty , but you can't beat a sbc if it's correctly done. My 70 something year old buddy Alvin said this , and I quote : " hell when I was a kid, you got picked on for running an old tired flathead, back in fifties and sixties, a small block was the hot rod engine to have! Not some vortec headed junk, we're talking a good old corvette motor or some other hot car motor" " hell we used to drop those flatheads out like panties on a prom night" Ha!
    So I don't feel so bad... This guy is a real hot rod dude from way back. Two of his 33's have flatheads and his driver 33 5 window has a sbc . But old school sbc like mine will be when it's in there. No fancy gold chainer stuff...
    Whatever it takes to make my bonneville trip happen, and when I'm cruising down the road with the cowl vent open and the windows down, you will never know te difference, and I'll be smiling to much to give a damn if you did or not :)


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 18, 2014
  3. Congrats...hope you get that sedan. Chopped sedans are killer.
     
  4. brian55lvr
    Joined: Oct 24, 2010
    Posts: 603

    brian55lvr
    Member
    from ma

    :cool: cant beat the price
     
  5. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,625

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Haag...Did you notice the rear body mount holes in the Gennie Henry frame being 3/4" off? (drivers side, IIRC)
    Former 'Thirty Four Store' owner and operator Wayne Bloechl and humble self were surprised to find that situation when drilling a 'glass '34 body to fit Gennie rails.
    Not ONE WEEK LATER, a customer of his came in to ask why his Gennie steel 5 window sub rails missed the drivers side by 3/4" on a new TCI frame.
    Wayne had to tell him it was a factory error: the Gennies are drilled 3/4" too far ahead on the drivers side! (rear most hole only)
    Any HAMBERS know why? Been bugging me since '78 or so...LOL

    Oh, and Kudos on having a Chevy V8 backup. (I was SO deadset against this action for so many years...Hated putting Chevys in ANYBODY'S flathead roadsters and coupes...)
    But it's such a practical move, and NO CUTTING...Flathead goes back in just a little more difficult than the Chev! LOL
    Anybody remember the old ad in HRM for a Chevy V8 6 volt starter??? LOL That was a popular swap!
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
  6. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,140

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    Here is some parts a good friend if mine decided to give to me....it's the perfect length drop for my channeled car.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1397788642.490865.jpg
    Also this one of a kind guy, restored me the steering wheel I always wanted! 40 ford.. And it's not a cheap o speedway 15" repop. It's the real deal.
    So he restored it and sent it down to me with the column, drop, and the bell.
    I've always wanted a 40 wheel. He did an amazing job. This wheel was close to junk when he started! And at the same swap meet where I got the wilcap adapter, I found a black 40 wheel with center cap for $25!!!
    Here they are
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1397788812.534642.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1397788822.845684.jpg

    Gonna be a sweet view
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1397788846.468356.jpg

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1397788858.319924.jpg


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  7. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,140

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    This morning my out if state friend went and looked at the steel body for me since it was 12 hours from home.. Ouch!! It was junk.. The roof was smashed down in, the doors were bent straight down over an inch, the floors and sub rails were all made from heavy plate steel, and it was all cut out for a heavy channel, then rear of the car was severely mudded up covering lots of rust, the indent for the windshield frame was all rusted out, and someone cut all the inners out of the body. To top that, the chop was 3/4 inch crooked and very poorly done. The shell was paper thin . If this would have been a coupe, I woulda brought it home. But being a sedan, I'm too far into my car for that kind of a project. That thing needed completely redone, it is savable by a guy with the right tooling and skill. But I'm not there yet.

    So I passed :/ it wasn't meant to be... So Today I jerked the flatty and installed the new power plant. It fit in great . I still need to fab up the front motor mount plates . But I'm happy with it. Mainly because it's about ready to run and move !
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1397944193.993223.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1397944219.935641.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1397944235.854710.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1397944254.168731.jpg
    And my garage help for the day
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1397944279.674120.jpg


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  8. TiredIronGRB
    Joined: Feb 22, 2009
    Posts: 554

    TiredIronGRB
    Member

    Nice looking assistant :)
     
  9. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,893

    Mart
    Member

    Kinda glad to hear that you passed on the sedan body. The coupe's coming on great. I can see now why the deck lid didn't fit, as pointed out in a previous post. The glass body has the lid lower so the filler can be in the panel above.

    Keep up the good work.

    Mart.
     
  10. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,140

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    Today i worked mainly on the steering column and the drop for it. I ended up shortening the column and shaft a little over an inch for some extra room inside the car. Then I pressed the bell onto the end and it was in a great position. I decided I needed 4.5" of drop to make it easy to see out the windshield and be able to get in and out of the car. Luckily my buddy gave me that tube and drop which was perfect. . The tube was rough so I pulled the drop and am going to clamp it on my new tube.
    I also fused a steel bracket to the inside of the firewall. This is the gas pedal bracket and support. Sitting In this car, everything is in a great spot. I'm very happy so far
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1398048970.533408.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1398048998.075876.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1398049013.485315.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1398049029.452539.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1398049078.436940.jpg
    I also drew up some front engine brackets which I'll make tomorrow. Looks like it will all work great
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1398049116.711904.jpg


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  11. Dude, sorry that the sedan didn't pan out, but, damn, you have more talent than you're giving yourself credit for! You've done well so far, and even if you don't find a steel body you are satisfied with, you've got a great hot rod, despite the NISB*!

    I'd really like a '34 some day...

    * Apologies to the Chebby folk, but No Imagination Small Block. :)
     
  12. Limey Kid
    Joined: Mar 5, 2006
    Posts: 1,024

    Limey Kid
    Member


    Wow, you congratulate the man on his skills, and then criticize his imagination!
    This Hot Rod is a great example of "it's not what it's made of, but what you do with it". he has taken the time, and skill, to add the details that most street rod glass bodies leave out. He has along trip planned to the Mecca, Bonneville. An engine he can get parts for on any street corner makes a lot of sense to me! I'm sure once he is back, and funds allow, he will find some imagination!
     
  13. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,140

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    Front engine mounts
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1398090317.430787.jpg



    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  14. 3banjos
    Joined: May 24, 2008
    Posts: 480

    3banjos
    Member
    from NZ

    Good to see ya back into it Ben. Did you consider a solid Hurst style mount. Made similar myself, and was persuaded toward hurst. Hey, I bet hundreds have done the same split mount as yourself. Be interesting to hear.
     
  15. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,140

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    Going at it full steam again..
    At least till it's ready for primer and it's mobile.
    I was gonna do a solid mount but I'm setting my engine as low as possible since my car is channeled. The solid hurst mount hits the crossmember . Atleast with the way I want the engine I sit .. I may have to weld a cross tie in afterwards , easier to figure out what I may need


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  16. joemac05
    Joined: Jul 29, 2006
    Posts: 438

    joemac05
    Member

    Beautiful work all around but I have just got to say this....

    The front mounting holes in the block were not located to take engine torque or twisting loads, that was taken by rear mounts at the bell housing back in the day. Those locations are too close together. Usually when using those holes in a hot rod a cross piece is used to tie the two brackets into one sold piece. It helps a lot and many many have been used that way over the years without failure in normal use.

    The other thing is, if you should apply enough torque or shock loads (read aggressive shifting and or clutch use) to twist on those bolts you will need a few spare input shafts and cluster gears for that poor old 3 speed tranny.

    Been there, done that many times, got a closet full of the T shirts. :D :D
     
  17. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,140

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    This car is a driver.. I'm wanting to cruise my way to bonneville. That's it. It will be driven like my model a. Yes it's a hot rod, but it's not gonna be hammered on. I didn't build it for that. I'm not concerned about the trans. Andy Kohler went to bonneville with a healthy y block in front of a 3 speed and banjo..


    To add to the motor mounts:
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1398099657.671354.jpg

    Now that's something to be scared about.. Aluminum. No way! Atleast Mine are heat treated 3/8 plate steel.. I may tie them together once I see what kind of room I have.


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  18. 3banjos
    Joined: May 24, 2008
    Posts: 480

    3banjos
    Member
    from NZ

    Fair call. You want the flatty to slide back in later without having to alter it's mounting pads. This'll be easy after doing those feckin doors..
     
  19. joemac05
    Joined: Jul 29, 2006
    Posts: 438

    joemac05
    Member

    I just had to say something haag, not trying to be banging on you. :) If you drive it sensibly the whole setup will indeed work beautifully. The weak spot is NOT the bolts themselves but the bottom corner of the block breaks off.

    Same thing with the trans, drive it forever no problems until that one time you just gotta grab 2nd gear, or leave aggressively in a bit of gravel and then catch on to some good pavement.

    Trouble with me is hot rod and dive sensibly do not compute... :eek: :eek:
     
  20. joemac05
    Joined: Jul 29, 2006
    Posts: 438

    joemac05
    Member

    If low in the car is the goal then I'm guessing you picture shows the mounts upside down???
     
  21. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,140

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    joemac,
    all in good fun :) MY car is low. the engine mounts are correct in the pic.. this is keeping the single crank pully 1/2 inches off the crossmember. if you look at the pic if the engine in the car, thats what these mounts are designed off of, that height. ill snap some pics when i get home.
    and trust me... i know all about the grabbing second gear, even my blown model a has left a few black marks.. but i have put a lot of time and thought into making this 34 what it is. and after it makes it to bonneville and back, i may throw my T5 in it. who knows.... but my mind is still saying as traditinal as possible, ( returning a flathead in it ) then the other half of me says ROLLING BONES style, y block or built to hell flatty, t5, QC rear, excelsior tires, and drive it cross country all the time.
    we will see what direction the wind blows, that i will determin what ill do in the end.
     
  22. joemac05
    Joined: Jul 29, 2006
    Posts: 438

    joemac05
    Member

    Hey that is what makes this so much fun, drive it and then come home and change something. Every time I drive my A bone I am dreaming of what I can do to it next...

    Some things happen and some do not. Main thing is to keep it not too far from a drive down the road.
     
  23. brian55lvr
    Joined: Oct 24, 2010
    Posts: 603

    brian55lvr
    Member
    from ma

    you yanked the motor?---looks like everyone else was workin while u took pics----lolol---im kiddin----i do the same thing---looks like my buddy is the only one who works --he doesnt take pics-----lookig good man---sorry about the sedan
     
  24. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,140

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    Motor plates are in. They fit perfect to the holes in the frame.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1398124854.351166.jpg
    And i got the column drop installed. Still smoothing out the angled shim to fill the cap between the dash
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1398124933.427637.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1398124999.386879.jpg


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  25. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,140

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    Joemac

    Happy now? Ha :)
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1398181707.327934.jpg



    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
    Atwater Mike likes this.
  26. joemac05
    Joined: Jul 29, 2006
    Posts: 438

    joemac05
    Member

    Bulletproof....

    My soul may now rest in piece.... :p
     
  27. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,140

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1398197062.745473.jpg
    Installed


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  28. MAD 034
    Joined: Aug 30, 2011
    Posts: 775

    MAD 034
    Member
    from Washington

    An observation -- you may experience some fore/aft flex in your front motor mount. I have the same motor/trans as you and I originally was running a Speedway front mount which had considerable flex. I had my motor out over the winter and changed the front mount out to an old Hurst mount which is very stout. The movement I saw was when the clutch was disengaged the motor/trans assembly would move forward and then back on release.

    Continue the awesome work!
     
  29. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,140

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    I made my front out of 3/8 heat treated steel. It's over kill as it is. We had to bend it in a 250 ton hydraulic press. If it flexes, I quit! :)

    I would still like to see some photos of your car ..

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  30. MAD 034
    Joined: Aug 30, 2011
    Posts: 775

    MAD 034
    Member
    from Washington

    I understand the whole "if this doesn't work I am gonna push it out in the street and burn it to the ground" thing. But hey -- we do this because we love it right?

    I have a bunch of pics from when my dad built his coupe back in '53 (mine is a copy of his build) and a bunch of mine. Gotta put it all together and get it posted.

    Keep up the good work -- It's fun to watch.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.