History Dodge 413 Engine - Tell me about them...

Edited - looking at the Hughes engines page I see part numbers for 383-440 up to 73, and also bearings listing "narrow flange" so maybe you're on t something there.

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...el1=QmVhcmluZ3M=&level2=TWFpbg==&partid=10835

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxXWjR6q5u4

 

4.18 4.25 4.32

 

My 62 413 was rated at350hp, 470 lbs/ft. torque. The early 350, 361, RB383, 413 were long 8 hole crank flanges. The ind. were361,413 used different heads, water pump , timing gear cover,exhaust manifold,and bell housing , and the long 8 hole crank flange. The motor home used the 413,440 with different heads( water steam holes in the lower part of the head), they used the short crank flange. I have had just about every big block eng that Mother Mopar made at one time or another.

Lee

 

Nope. Same size.

 

Here's a page describing different thrust bearings. It's a difference in the block design, not the crank

http://www.440source.com/bearings.htm

 

Thank you Greg!...
Seems to me all you had to do was bore the 413 block .070" over to come up with a 426...
I think back in them days it was very possible...

 

The thrust faces are wider. You can use these in later blocks but not in earlier blocks. The narrower thrust face can be used in early or late blocks.

It's how they fit in the block, not how the crank fits.

 

the rb engines are all very similar they share almost all the same pieces internally. the only draw back from a performance stand point is the 413 has a smaller bore size that shrouds the valve more than a 426 or 440. the factory tried to help this problem in 63 by machining the head to unshroud the valve. they then increased the bore. also the heads used a 1.60 exhaust valve compared to a 1.74 on a magnum head dont get me wrong here the 413 is a good engine but if you are going to rebuild a mopar rb you will get more power out of a 440. and the cost of pistons for the 440 will save you some cash compared to 413 or 426 pistons. i would also look into the 440 source rb stroker kits. you can make 500 inches with that kit for a cost of about 1200 dollars. compare that to new pistons rings crank grind rod recondition balance and it is very close to even. there are so many good head choices out there now do some research on what will suite you. if its performance look at indy edelbrock max wedge if its more of a cruiser any stock magnum head will work. again compare the price of new valves new guides hardened seats decking disassemble reassemble new springs locks retainers. the new heads outflow the old and usually can be had for around the same money. my son just bought some alum indys for 700 dollars with rockers they were ported also he put them on a flow bench at school and they hit 345cfm at 600 lift. intake his ported big valve 906 heads only hit 260 cfm he then wrote a paper on hp potential comparing the two. mopar heads have come a long way over the past 15 years or so

 

Great thread, I like the wedge motors!

 

As for the song! As a Max Wedge owner/racer in the day I never had a 63 Fuel injected Stingray give me any sort of race at the drags or on the street. Would get me off the line but at half track it was like they shut off. Several magazines have duplicated this race (Hot Rod, Popular Hot Rodding, Ect.) and the results were always the same. Vett looses every time. Now the 409 63 factory race cars were a different story. They could run with the Max sometimes. That's my real life expereince.
Dan

 

Ya gotta keep in mind the Beach Boys were probably smokin' wacky tobacky and digesting all sorts of pills every chance they had. So things might not have appeared as they actually were.

 

I have a 1963 361 with a 727 push button trans. Love it!

 

For your viewing pleasure...'62 Dodge powered by a 413

 

In stock form the Mopar B & RB engines are powerful pieces. The best part is that there are still plenty of them available, and craigslist is my favorite hunting ground.

As to being big-bulky-heavy, I call bullshit. Anyone ever try carting around a BBC head or an FE intake??

.

 

all of the go-fast goodies for a 440 will fit the 413. if it needs a rebuild, pistons are a little pricey. watch out for some of the motor home/ind. motors. they have an eight bolt crank flange that only a standard flywheel will fit. starter on the steering box side. you may need to use a mini one. external oil pump lower left front. might hit stock front cross member. you will have to make your own mounts, no aftermarket ones i know of. i have a 426 (same basic motor) in my '40 ford. took some doing. but cleared the fire wall and fender wells good. had to move the radiator foward though. a notched firewall would have taken care of that. if you need a rear sump oil pan, you can use one from a dodge pick-up 383, 400, or 440. gene.

 

I'm thinkin that 1961 was the last 8 bolt- long crank flange. 1962 and later had 6 bolt- short cranks. The Torqueflite you want is the 71-78 B727. Count the imput splines. 24 splines lets you use the readilly available aftermarket converter. In 67 I had a 383 that often went 7,800 rpms, a few times in high gear!

 

Oh yea to help you identify raised block 3.75 stroke from low block 3.38 stroke engines look at the front of the engine just to the left(toward the center) of the dizzy. If there is a flat milled surface about 1.5 x 3 inches it's a raised block. The low deck engines had a convoluted cast area there. I raced a cat with a new 69 440 6 pack Roadrunner and after I twisted his tail he said that my car was not a 383 and that he could tell. He asked me to open the hood and put his hand where the flat surface should be but alas it was not there. He turned gray and said "It's a 383"!
Do not try to spin a raised block motor above 6500 or you'll run over the crank.

 

I went to rebuild my 413 and it had a cracked block so after some searching and finding this thread and help from others I went with a 440 block and my heads and crank it cost me 2200 to have it built. .. they disassembled and reassembled the motor also after some advice we went with as close to stock as possible because I have to run my torque converter from the 413 to use my push button transmissions (this is a 59 Chrysler new yorker) .... I now am doing the final assembly and I got a pair for headers that fit the car but I'm in the search for a starter that will work ... I need a mini and I know I'll . probably have to dent or cut and re fab my headers witch is fine cuz I.got them cheap ... the starter I got for summit seems to not fit the block ... for me to line up the bolt hole and line up the gear I would need to twist the starter up but it hits my block ... this is my first build and I'm learning as I'm going any advice would help and thanks for the thread it made my build possible because I know no one that is into mopar ... as of right now I see why this car has been the biggest pain but I don't think to many ppl are building them especially the way I am

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They were, and still are, low rpm and high torque motors. As mentioned earlier in this thread excellent examples are still available for relatively cheap money through Craigslist and other sources. A little stroke and compression creates an interesting ride in a light car, like a Dart. Later examples, like a 400 with stroke (451), makes big power and rev like a mother. From a financial standpoint, they are less costly to make power with than, for example an FE Ford, which I am partial to.

 

When I was 19 two buddies and I took a Corvair Spyder cross country. The Diff had an undetected leak ( my fault) and went to H*ll in Gallup New Mexico. We pulled the powertrain with the car teetering WAY up in the air on a pair of those red HILift farm jacks in a junkyard dirt parking lot beside Rte 40. A young man had a trans shop and offered to rebuild the trans. His ride was an early 50s Chevy pickup with a Chrysler 413 and slicks, and always At least two gorgeous Native American or maybe Mexican girls riding up front with him. At one point He offered us a ride to the parts store. We three Yankees were assigned to sit in the bed, sitting all which way. He showed off with some heavy throttle in first gear, and that Mopar torque tumbled us helpless like puppies to end up laughing in a heap against the tail gate.

I found that inspiring then, and enjoy thinking about it today.

I'm guessing fitting the 413 in there was quite a feat.

He screwed up the trans rebuild guessing how it went together and dropped an interlock pin into the wrong hole or something. No reverse. I drove it home to Massachusetts that way, borrowed a professional Motors manual from the AMOCO gas station at the end of the road, RTFI, and fixed it myself

Dan T

 

Go with a 70s 440 this 413 is nothing but problems if you plan on doing anything but stock and I can't find anything I need !!! I went with a 72 440 block with my 413 heads and my 413 crank to use my stock trans in my 59 Chrysler and it's been a nightmare lol no bolt holes for alternator brackets stater that works and plenty of little things but it's probably. My fault for not researching things instead of listening to ppl. But u will find some.ppl on here that know what they are talking about

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Didn't see the 4 speed ? Answered you should be able to run the 4 speed no problems you need the Bb Bell housing a crank or modify your crank for a pilot bearing and a correct flywheel if you have an older 8 bolt ,shouldn't be to hard to do very few cars came with a 3 speed manual and a 413 the parts are out there good luck

 

I'll look into that ..thanks for the info it's hard figuring everything out with this

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Grandpa had a 413 in an ex CHP car. Was quite the high speed cruiser.. Later he had a motorhome that was 413 powered and that summa-bitch would really stand at attention when he tromped on it.
(my only 2 personal experiences with 413s)