Alright I need to know how to reverse the eyes on a model A rear spring? Now this is something I should know how to do, but I will call it old age as I can't recall what we use to do back in the old days. It has only been about 50 years since I wanted to do something like this and belive me I have burned that brain sell a long time back. Way to many beers. Thanks for any help.....
remove the main leaf from pack draw spring arc on floor with chalk bend the spring back the other way till it matches the arc on the floor. installation is reverse of removal
Check this out,,tech archives. HRP http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90824&highlight=how+to+reverse+eyes+on+springs
Hell of a job if you're going to try the "chalk on the floor" method. I would think the smartest way to do it would be a new main leaf from a spring shop. Or maybe they can unroll/reroll the eyes and re-temper the whole thing? Or... find another way to get the whole thing an inch lower?
Best advice so far- and the safest ! These are the only 2 ways that I would go about it or else start with a completely new spring.
I agree, I did the chalk on the floor method on my last car... ...Bought them on the new one. They are about 100 a leaf.... ..It's kinda a question of how much is your time worth?
I've often wondered if a reversed eye spring has ever opened up, or started to unroll with the weight of a heavy engine say a Chrysler Hemi? Bob
The A spring being a different shape than that of a '40 style rear, would be way more difficult to reverse the eyes in the way most of them are done. I would look at getting a new main leaf. Allot of times the original main leaf with have a crack around the allignment bolt in the center. I did my own '40 front spring, but the shape and goal was pretty simple.
I reversed an A front spring with the chalk and press method like the tech article. It's a lot of work. The closer together you mark the press points the better it works. Bring the press down to touch and press the same number pumps per line. As careful as I was it still came out lumpy. I went so far as to make a press arbor that was as wide as the spring, 1/2" thick with a rounded surface on the bottom so it wouldn't make a sharp mark in the spring. I also made a 2 sided jig that would keep the leaf 90° to the arbor. Still looked like shit. I can't even imagine trying an A rear leaf. Bottom line, buy one.
They don't actually "re-roll" the eyes on the spring. I'd never trust that much distortion. I de-arc all my own springs. Very easy to do as explained above. Do a search to find photos of it being done in the shop with common hand tools. No heat is required and a decent shop vice is all that is needed. I'm too cheap to spend money on a simple task once you realize how it is done. I'll save that 100 bucks for old speed equipment
I had mine re-rolled for about $50 at a spring shop. A little needs to be trimmed off each end in the process. Otherwise, it will be slightly longer after reversing. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Thanks to everyone for the information posted I like the37kids idea of the new main leaf as you all know the A rear spring would be a tough one to reverse.
That's incorrect in my experience.Been a long time since I had a main leaf rerolled, and the shop that did it is unfortuneately closed and gone. But they heated the eye red and rerolled in reverse. Then they retmpered the whole leaf. They do have to trim a small amount off the ends in the process. I was allowed to stand nearby and watch the whole process, and still remember it. Wish they were still around as the rear spring mainleaf on my roadster is just a tad too long and this allows the shackles to be a little more near vertical than I like. If transverse spring shackles are just a bit more near horizontal than 45* there is less potential for sway.
Here is a T that was done many years ago, who ever did the work did a great job, it would be a challenge for sure.
The shop press method works well, I have done that..just go slow and make small moves. I've also had good luck with a big-ass slip roller...still a ton of work. Either way, you CAN do it yourself. Have fun with it.
Some guys time is extremely valuable and limited. I can buy two of those in the time it takes to make one and my time is limited. I'd rather be making money and spend it. Than trying to "save" by doing it myself. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Its all about time isn't it? I can understand the fixed income thing and what not. I was just pointing out why some of us, who have reversed them ourselves before, now choose to buy. I certainly wasn't making the money I am now, when I first did one. Believe me when I say, I wish I had the time.... ...as I am wasting time on the hamb waiting on an appointment.... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I managed to reverse rear main spring on my A last week. Used a janky hydraulic tubing bender like the ones you get at harbor freight or whatever. The spring was cheap,(bought a used one as to not mess up my original) and bender was given to me. I mainly did it because I had read about other people doing it and wanted to know that I could do it. It did take a couple hours though.
I just like doing it myself. I get some pride from it. Ive never been one to get pride from writing a check. Even if I could afford it.
Thats cool, don't get me wrong, I think doing it yourself is rad and I get the pride in doing it yourself. It's almost like a drug. I've done it before and If I had more time, I would do it again. I certainly don't take pride in writing a check for a part. But If I let pride of doing vs. Buying get in the way of building a hot rod I would certainly be alot further behind than I am. I'm really juat playing devils advocate so the OP can decide for himself which way is better for him. And really are we talking front or rear here? Front is easy, and a no brainer. Mine on the pickup was already done.. ..The rear on the other hand is a complete pain in the you know what, to reverse. , Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I'd like to see anyone who replied to this thread de-arch/re-arch the spring mentioned in the original post. And go check the original post we are talking about a REAR model A spring here. I have de-arched and reversed a few springs so I'm not some "checkbook hot rodder" haha. I'm just smart enough to know when my own time is more valuable than the end product.
Well, looks like someone did it so... huh. More drive than me at this point I suppose. I think I would have raised the crossmember an inch before going through that. Any pictures of the process? Edit: Wait, you said "rear main leaf on your A" but was it a model A rear spring?
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