Thanks everyone! Since I have four old cars that needs working on, a full time job, playing gigs every weekend and having a family with four kids, I thought I needed an extra push to get started. So I got a small shop to help me to primer paint and assemble my parts, build the kick up in the rear cross member for the Model T spring and also fix my rear axle with a new Hot Rod Works Quickchange and a shortened drive shaft and tube. Then I got the chassis back home after a couple of weeks. Still lots of work to be done, but at least I had a start. It looks more finished than it is, but it was now rolling. So, I had to try with my body on it and roll it out. It is not the correct wheels either, but it was a nice feeling. The front end will need to be restored and more, but just to see all the stuff together was nice. To use -32 spindles and -40 brakes, you need to use a thin ring inside the brake backing plate opening since the -32 spindle bolt holes are more narrow. Did anyone get my bad english here? I'll show you. You also need to do a thicker ring to put the inner bearing in the correct position. On the -40 spindles this part is longer than on a -32, so we need to compensate that. Pics are stolen from somewhere , but they show how to do it.
J.B. did you use the '32 hubs or the hubs that came with your breaks. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I got the 1940 Ford wheels that I'm going to use painted. I was also lucky to find the exact hubcaps I was looking for. A complete set of 1940 Ford Standard with the V8 pressing. Well used, but not badly hurt. Had to put'em on! I am rapidly working my way up to more recent pics. But the project has taken some time with other projects falling in and other things in life taking up the time. I took my roadster body to my friend Benny to help me do lots of sheet metal work. Here is the roadster getting cut up and split apart for body work at his small garage.
Dang that looks familiar to me with all the 1/4 panel patches! I like the 40 standard caps too. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Benny got most of the roughest bodywork done and I took it home on a trailer to my garage to keep working. Put it up on the chassies And rolled it outdoor This is how far I came with the build up til spring of 2013... Then it was full time rockin' and hot rodding during the summer. Oh yes, I bought a nice 1939 gear box here in Sweden and a nice set of original Lincoln Zephyr gears from Van Pelt and had it all built and done during summer.
I like the plan, looks awesome. Im looking forward to see the progress, the stance is right on. Awesome build!
I love looking at the ass end of a hot rod and the Tranny looks great! <-----this might be the gayest thing I've ever written on the HAMB! Probably not though.
Thanks, man! I will do my best. Thanks! As you can see in the pics outside my garage, it isn't easy to even find a dry SPOT, ha ha.... Now we came up to fall and winter of 2013. 5 years after the car landed in Sweden. Or what's left of it, more correct. So here we are, doing subframe kickups As you saw previous in this thread, the rear rumble floor was REALLY bad. So, I bought a new floor and here is Benny doing the kickup adjustments. Then, put it on and weld it. Done! To give myself the ultimate push to have the car ready this spring, I promised the manager for Scandinavias biggest indoor car show to have it ready for this show on the Easter weekend. Not as a regular show car, of course. But to use in a Bonneville diorama. And that damn show is only a few weeks away from now. Hmmm... what have I got myself in to...
Now it was time to start with the floor and the seating. A dry lake style hot rod requires a low seating position. To be able to sit rather low in a 1928-29 roadster body there are two options. Either by being a natural 5 foot tall person OR lower the floor. For a guy a bit over 6ft 2" there was only one option left. Luckily, I have a -32 frame and some more space between the frame rails. I cut the -28 subframe crossbar and moved it back a bit. Benny did a box and we planned to have the seat with a 2-3" padding and still end up level with the orignal floor. Check it out! I put a thick cushion in the box and borrowed a backrest from my other roadster and pushed it way low in to the trunk. I could barely see over the gas tank and the heavily leaned column made it almost impossible to get in for me, the stiffest man in history. PERFECT!!!
While working away with the build here, I saw that the goal of a 200 hp engine stirred up some attention in the beginning of the thread. I can't promise I will succeed, but I will give it a try. The engine from this car is from my old roadster. A 296" that was built by my friend Andreas 2 years ago. Haven't tested it on the dyno and I will do some other improvements before I do. Andreas is a very skilled guy who also built the fantastic New Panoramic Ford. The engine is a 1946 59AB and got a complete overhaul with 3 3/8" bore and 4 1/8" stroke. It runs a 400 jr cam, bigger intake valves, ported and relieved, Eddie Meyer heads and a Thickstun PM7 intake with 2 new Stromberg 97 carbs. This was done 2 years ago. Any good ideas for the engine's increased power is welcome! Let's take a look inside, The new 3 3/8"bore is nice It's a bit of difference between a stock pistón and these Ross beauties The new Scat 4 1/8" crank in position More to come, I need to hit the sack, man it's late here! 3.15 a.m.
Looks nice JB ! I dont think that the PM7 is good for making that kinda HP, everything I've read/seen points to decent int/exh porting, relieving, a triple intake & carbs (not dual), un-shrouded chambers/valves for max breathing, etc.... You mentioned it was relieved but it does'nt look relieved in the pic? Either that or my eyes are going...
Yep, three 97s is the way to go... And is the ring in the bore the 3rd one? Otherwise the gap is way too big...... Apart from that it looks very cool!
The Jalopy Journal
