Looks nice! but make sure you check one thing. Make sure the exhaust can be removed with the bed in place. Don't ask me how I know the importance of this. Mart.
WOW....everything looks really nice, lots of detail on this one!! It great to see your back posting again...............................
No problem removing the exhaust. I have a sawzall. Don't know why I would have to take it out and would be impossible with out cutting it apart.
This is a great looking build. I like your rear bumper. Did I miss that part of the discussion? Where did you get it?
It was one of those 60° days here in Idaho so I put on my upholstery hat. I needed to block out all the material pieces to see if I had enough. There are a lot of pieces to this one because if the way I”m styling the interior. I have the headliner, door panels, seat, kick panels, firewall panel and panels behind the seat to do. Yup I was short by 5 yds. I just couldn't stop there and started the tuck-n-roll process. I laid a line at 2 3/4” apart to achieve a 2” roll. You top stitch those then turn it over and stitch the back side to hide the stitches from the front. Things were going well so I just made a day of it. I figured if I did the hard part first the rest would go easy. Although the headliners can be difficult to get the wrinkles out of the corners. I plan on doing a tuck-n-roll section down the center. If time is right I may do the seat back tomorrow. I'm on a roll. The Boise Roadster Show is here next week and I usually spend ever hour out there setting in a booth for Idaho's Classic Auto Lobbying Organization.
Mj40s....I see all your pics fine. Not sure why the others can't see em? But what do I know , I still can't post multiple pics from an iPad
MJ, that work looks amazing! You make it look so easy. And your exhaust and chassis looks super nice as well!
Pictures were a problem way back when I started this thread. Todays work. I started on the back of the seat. Finish her tomorrow.
Not much progress the last couple weeks. I do volunteer work for a statewide lobbying organization for the classic car hobby (USRI). I have had a couple car shows to sit in a booth promoting membership & etc. We are up to 950 members now. Still spending time managing my parents care. Yes it is time to spend time on myself!!!! CW'S40TPU- Just looked through your pickup project photos. I only could hope mine comes out as good as yours! Over the top! Is she done yet?
Thanks mj, no not done yet. Low on funds & I had some health issues. I'm a bit overwhelmed at this stage of the build, I'm hoping to get back on it soon............
I understand overwhelmed! I have been doing little things to finish mine. Lots of them left. I made an executive decision and hired a new painter to finish up the bed and tailgate. I need to mount the bed and locate the fender holes and then will take it over to him. Once the bed is painted and mounted for the last time, I have lots of things to do to button things up. My wife retired and she keeps making plans for travel, hope to slow her down so I have some time to play. I really want to drive this thing this summer and enjoy it for the 75th anniversary of the 40's next year.
Today was a good day and I got to spend the day mounting the bed for fender fit and a little wood work getting ready to do the floor. All this is to get the bed painted soon.
Awesome looking good now get that thing in one color you're so close Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I met my goal today and mounted the driver's side fender. As usual things were off and I had to massage the bed back about 1/4" to close a gap at the fender to bed splash apron. Bed is square to the frame and body now so I marked the holes for the fenders bolts to the bed. Tomorrow I will do the other side and then back apart to paint the bed. Exciting when it starts looking like a truck again. My first mistake today was when mounting the running board it looked like the front of the cab needed to come up a little. I jacked up the front and added 1/4" shims. Only to find out that I was using the wrong frame holes to mount the boards. The correct ones made the body too tall in the front. Oops!
I have been hitting it hard the last week or so. Trying to finish up the under dash wiring so I can fire this thing. Wiring can drive you crazy. Yesterday I determined the ign switch was bad and not sending power to the starter pole. Replaced it with another new one and the same results. I do not have the starter wire hooked up to the starter to prevent from turning the motor over. I get a clicking sound from the fuse box area when I turn the key to start and the volt gauge shows a direct short. The high beam light is on also even though the lights are off. That wasn't on yesterday. I think I have a ground problem some where and getting a feed back. Any ideas?????
Hey Mel, I've followed your posts and have really appreciated the tech stuff you contributed over the course of your project. The high beam indicator in the dash should be powered by the same circuit as the lights themselves so you may have the wrong bulb plugged into that hole. That could be your generator light or e-brake which come on with switched ignition power. Headlights don't generally route through the ignition switch (unless you're powering an interposing relay with the ignition for lighting?). The only thing I can think of that would be on the fuse block that should click would a flasher module? As you suggested, wiring may cause headache, stress, or excessive toxics consumption. The problem will definitely be the last place you look. Good Luck!
Because I have used the 40 car column and a real cool turn signal switch, I had to use a 3 prong flasher wired through a trailer light converter box. Both the flashers on the fuse box were removed and jump wire installed. The high beam light is wired through the dimmer switch HB connection and is on with the HL switch off. I also used a dash mounted 60's style add on 4 way flasher. I usually test each system as I'm wiring them and had no known problems. I do not have the headlights installed to check the high beams yet.
I'm pretty sure it is a ground issue. Today I tried testing the high beam wire at the headlight to se if I was getting power up there. The test light was making contact with the wire and when I tried to clamp the ground to the frame, the radiator fan came on and the HB light went out. I shut the fan off by the switch and everything seems to be normal now. Go figure! No clicking now but the volt gauge still goes to 0 on start without the wire hooked to the starter.
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