Technical Early Hemi ? Baby Red Ram Crankshaft Question.

Where did you get Venolia pistons for a Desoto? Only thing I have found so far are stock compression ratio cast pistons..

 

I got em from Venolia about 3 years ago. I called about some more the other day and they quoted me $108.00 per slug. Ross also makes em. I got a set from them some time back for a blower application. At that time they were more expensive than the Venolias.

 

Hemi engines are known for very good air flow but another trick you can do to increase the air flow a little more is remove some excess metal in the intake and exhaust side of the heads. I was doing these outside as it is a very dirty job and on top of that it was over 100 degrees and very humid! I remember my friend Doug who built the engine stopping by to check on my progress. I thought I had carefully ground quite a bit in each passageway but I soon found out I was just getting started! I want to caution everyone, make sure an experienced engine guy grinds them or shows you what specific areas to remove!! Doug always says more air flow improved performance ...more HP!!

Build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=862612&highlight=32+spitfire

Todd-32 Spitfire
High Noon Speed Shop

 

I have heads from all the red ram engines. The bump around the intake guide went down with each new engine. The 315 had a small bump but the 325 engine had no bump at all and made a lot more power with a milder cam. I did not want to push the guides out of my 241 heads so I just cut the sides of the hump away. I can feel the power increase.

 

Forgings are available from anyone who makes forgings and has the correct size blank. The small Dodge and DeSoto require a pretty small blank. Yes, we sell them.

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We can make them at CP Pistons also.

 

Great info guys...thanks

 

Then there is the real talented guys who machine and assemble the engine. Where would any of us be without them. I was very lucky on this 32 coupe build and had many old school guys help, each with decades of experience. Here is Mike Shane at his shop truing my 1955 Dodge Red Ram 270 block and checking the fit of the Racer Brown Cam. Special thanks to each one!

Build:http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=862612&highlight=32+spitfire

Todd-32 Spitfire
High Noon Speed Shop

 

I have a suggestion about putting a cam in. The red ram cams don't have holes for bolts so you can get some leverage. I would not put a cam in without turning the engine on end. The oil for mains and rods must have well fitting cam bearings.

 

There is a book you can get on ebay on the old hemis. It has a lot of great info. Everything from cranks to valve spring stats. I'm not able to add a photo right now, but the auction # on ebay is 291088461841. It's worth the money. Bill

 

Dodge hemis oil the rockers from a hole in the cam journals 2 and 4 . With the short block together I take a stick of brass welding rod and stick in the oil passage and slowly turn the engine over until the rod will drop into the hole in the cam then mark the damper. Then repeat on the other side it makes it much easier to the engine in the right place when you are priming to see if oil is getting to the rockers.

 

So do the others.

 

Earlyhemibill,

That is the book I mentioned above. It is an excellent resource that we went to a lot!

Sunbeam,
You are so right! Everyone read his post!! We had a few anxious moments until we figured this out.

Build:http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=862612&highlight=32+spitfire

Here is a photo when the heads returned and a couple old Dodge Red Ram Hemi's waiting their turn someday!

Todd-32 Spitfire
High Noon Speed Shop

 

I think I really need to add the balancer now. It is finally running pretty strong. I had tried to put a 318 balancer on it once before. It did not slide on like the stock hub. I am fine forcing it on if that is the way it is supposed to fit. The key was not the problem. I guess I will buy a stepped key from Tom and redo the timing mark and then fight the pulley. Am I going to have to turn the ID out to fit the crank???

 

I've never had that problem but I've always broached the keyway to early hemi size.

 

I'd measure the crank snout diameter and the damper bore.
I have no Hemi specs, but 0.0005" to 0.0010 " interference fit would be nice. Slip fit dampers usually also have BIG torque requirements to provide enough axial clamping to keep things from wiggling to death.

 

I was in a hurry to get it back together and when the dampener showed no sign of going on, I went back to what had been on it. I was mostly checking anyway as I did not have the key. I will measure as you said and go from there. I have a 325 or something old dampener, a 318 and a racing 360. None were in any hurry to assemble. Andy

 

I did broach open the slot in my damper for the 1/4" key. Then made a bracket to hold a pointer on 0 once the engine was on TDC. I found this to be easier than trying to make a new slot in the damper to match up with the original timing mark.

 

That neutral balancer is
Mopar number 3614369
available from Rock auto and others I'm sure, about $65.00.
Your balancer is not going to just slide on. It will press on by using the bolt. A bit of anti-seize will be good for the next guy. 135 foot pounds of torque on the big bolt.

 

Thank you very much!!

 

Here it is.

 

Here is my friend Doug putting my 270 Dodge Red Ram engine together. (As you can see in the photo it was beans & hot dogs again for lunch!) Doug was the brains on this entire coupe build. This was actually my first engine build as his helper. I did a lot of the work, from original engine(s) disassembly and cleaning to porting the heads and cleaning all the rockers. I even painted the block but Doug did the serious precision work. We are a great team at our High Noon Speed Shop and I've learned a lot along the way!

Coupe build:http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=862612&highlight=32+spitfire

Todd-32 Spitfire
High Noon Speed Shop

 

Here is Doug preparing the Ross Racing Pistons to go into the block.

Coupe build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=862612&highlight=32+spitfire

Todd-32 Spitfire
High Noon Speed Shop

 

There are some cool speed parts around for the Dodge Red Ram "Baby Hemi's" ...here are a few I have collected for a future build.

Here is a Vertex Magneto and an Offenhauser aluminum three carb intake!



Next is a Mickey Thompson Enterprises flywheel in the original box! Don't know if it's rare and I would like someone to explain to me the advantage of his over the regular one?



http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=868261&highlight=32+spitfire

Todd-32 Spitfire
High Noon Speed Shop

 

Light weight (10-15lbs) alum wheels allow for a bit quicker revs and light weight coupes don't need a stock type heavy (28-35lb) wheel to launch, however, the little engines can benefit from a mid-weight wheel since they are 'little'. You can't add weight to an aluminum wheel but you can trim an iron piece.

If the wheel is too light for the car you will find out quickly as you will be slipping the clutch a lot to get the car moving.
My rule of thumb for wheel weight is 1 lb of wheel for 100-125lb of curb weight.
Rear gears also affect the selection. Use a slightly heavy wheel with tall gears to avoid stalling at take off.

I'm sure that others will have their own ideas...


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Jeff how did the crank check out
Bert

 

73RR,

I just weighed the Mickey Thompson flywheel and it came out at 24 lbs. even. So if what you said of 1 lb. to every 100-125 lb. of curb weight this flywheel would have been almost perfect for my coupe which I'm guessing will weigh in at 2400-2600 lbs. (we will weigh it when the weather breaks)

Thanks again for always sharing great information on these old Hemi's!

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=862612&highlight=32+spitfire

Todd-32 Spitfire
High Noon Speed Shop

 

How did you set up the T5 Kirk?
What bellhousing an flywheel?
cheers

 

I utilized a HotHeads Dodge Hemi to Chevy 4 spd adapter. A T5 has the same bolt pattern as a 4spd if you redrill the mounting holes just a bit. The T5 input shaft is approx 5/8" (16 mm?) longer than a 4 spd so the input shaft has to be trimmed down accordingly. Also be sure there is enough travel for the pressure plate also since the input will be shortened up.