Some guys don't work on their own stuff either, You can't explain it to them. Try some of them damn bypass hoses, the ones that are about 4" long with a 90* bend - where there's not enough room to get your finger around it to pull and there's no way to twist it. How about where there's really not enough room to get your hand into the cavity without dismantling 1/4 of the engine compartment just to get your hand on the hose. Or maybe a hemi engine in a 32 with a radiator hose that needs a 120* bend with a twist thru it. That's where is too short to get on and if you do manage to get it on it is then too long. Make it shorter and start over again. Or when the damn heater core nipple springs a leak because the wiggle on it was too much. It's all fun stuff. Building a chassis from scratch is way easier than the detail stuff, the little details will keep you off the road if they aren't correct.
Well said.Actually seeing something through to the point where you can hop in,turn the key,and take off down the road is a very far departure from just mocking up and fabricating.....it can be a challenge to get around those little obstacles that pop up. Scott Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
well painting the nibs on the outlets with epoxy paint works great to keep them from sticking , corrosion and rust always makes them stick . silicone hoses work grat also if you can afford them , also tightening them to the correct spec helps also overtightening them glue them to the nibs . they only need a few inch pounds of tightening to hold them . not 150 foot pounds
Twisting to remove often helps break things loose. Like others said, Next is sliding a dull pick or small philips screw driver deep along the hose ID. The non-hardening brown permatex #2 is pretty good but danged messy, so I'd probably only use it on a fitting that was corroded enough I was concerned about leakage. And then I'd probably use RTV anyhow. The tube of Perm #2 I have is going to last a lifetime because it is so sticky and messy. It's one claim to fame is gasoline resistance. I generally wipe on a thin film of Sil-glyde, NAPA's cheap ( 6 bucks for a big tube) silicone grease. I might think twice about using sealer if a fitting lacked a raised retaining ring. http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/dt69nova/2010-06-21_190924_pic.gif
Not knowing what you are doing. How about leaving the hoses long then you can make the adjustments on the end that you can reach easily.
Here's my vote. I use it on my boat hoses, so I can easily remove them to drain the water for winter storage. It's never degraded the rubber, just a bitch to get off your hands or any place you don't want it.
From the RC world(radio control),The shock lube that is used is a silicone base oil,It works great on any rubber. Pete
Hahahaha....that's good. All seriousness aside, I use a dab of hand cleaner when I install new hoses. Don't know if aids in disassembly but it couldn't hurt.
I do the opposite: i coat the inner mating surface with gasket sealer....to help hold the hose on if the clamp works loose. I'd rather stay cool.
If you run coolant in the proper ratio to water and start with dry hoses and dry fittings, use nothing. The biggest problem is overtightening hose clamps. Tighten until the hose will not turn, run the engine. If drips form, tighten until the stop. Proper sizing (hose/clamp/barb) is key. Same thing with battery terminals - tighten until the terminal doesn't move on the post, not until you close the gap on the clamp.
Craftsman cotter pin tool works great for slipping under the hose and breaking the seal. Long enough to reach past the sealed edge and is bent just right. Never could get the damn tool to work for cotter pins, always use it on hoses and installing windshields.
I usually have trouble installing radiator hoses in close areas like the lower front hoses on flatheads. I found that Vaseline and oil work the best. Slicker than shit. Normally during removal I find it helps seal and easily breaks loose if you use a good tool to fish between the seal.
I have used a product called AQUALUBE. It is available at swimming pool supply stores. Doesn't hurt the hose, yet it allows easy assembly and disassembly.
Yep, twisting is a sure way to break things, including the solder joint at the heater core. Never again, now I use silicone spray on hoses and if they dont come off easily they get the razor blade. Clamps hold them on plenty tight.
The Jalopy Journal
