what problems can i expect putting an 8ba Flathead in a stock 32 Ford 3Window Coupe? And from where can I get the parts?
Front mounts will need welded onto the frame. Use F1 1950's truck pumps. The rear crossmember will have to be either cut or changed within the frame for clearance The oil pan will need to be changed for a truck pan for clearance of steering components. The front pulley will be an issue which can be changed. Clearance issues are also workable for the distributor. Speedway is a good source.
I didn't notch my firewall and it fit. Tight, but it fit. you have to go to a single belt system with the fan on the gen. do a search, there's lot of info on all this. on the steering, you just have to make your application work. i along with many others bought reds headers 32 frame/f1 box but you still have to modify it. i wish i would have just built my from the get go. reds headers are nice, but why spend 200 on something just to cut it all up. you can get the same thing through macs or bob drake i think for 100. i bought speedways at first but they are junk like most everything they sell. youll need your radiator, firewall, steering box, headers to realy get an idea where it goes. as far as the drag links they can be bent or your pan can be modified. have to get it to fit before you worry about those little things
I used truck water pumps, welded in motor mounts flush with top of frame. Raised firewall(and entire body) using 1/4" steel plate under firewall and cut/trimmed conveyor belt material under body. This was done in order to keep from cutting firewall while trying to get pumps to line up with radiator.. Fan is going to be the issue. I wound up cutting the mount off the fan hub trimmed some off and tig welded it back on.. I still only have 1/4" space between fan and radiator. I think the fan was a 60's ford.. Steering clearance, I'm with caddilac coffin.. Sucks to pay Reds for fitted headers only to hack them up.. There is no cutting of crossmember as long as you use a 39 trans.. It's a pain but just take your time and make it work. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
A lot of this info your are getting is BS. You don't need to add engine mounts. Just use 32 Ford mounts. The holes are already in the block for use. The mounts are reproduced. If you use the single belt early system, no front cross member mods are needed. As said, if you use a 39 type transmission, it's a bolt in. It will also work with stock steering and stock exhaust manifolds. There is absolutely NO reason to hack up the firewall. As far as water pump to radiator hook up, just have the lower radiator outlets angled down about 15-20 degrees. No need to raise anything, either. Geeze
Yep, many ways to skin a cat... care to stop by and give a hand when I got to sit the 8cm into my A? I could use your experience..
Thanks for the info. I wanted to use but the crankshaft pulley is too large. which one should I take? pumps must also change, Which? Fan must also change. I do not want A member installed, the chassis must remain original have otherwise brobleme with approval [/QUOTE]
You use either a stock 39 std front pulley, or use a type 59 pulley and remove the front sheave. Yes, there are different ways to do things, but why screw up a good stock frame in order to make something fit that Henry did for you. All flathead blocks are the same in dimensions, other than the 60 horse engine.
Thanks for the help. My 32er is a 18 - 3Window in Original Henry Ford I just want to change the motor with more power. Steering - Brakes Shocks all original
wow some of the guys could really aid in a guy really screwing up his ride and spend alot of money. the block just fits. sounds like its the "how many whatevers does it take to change a light bulb" problem. man im glad that one dude stepped in and saved that guy. good luck im doing the same thing.
boy is my face red but if im cruisin hamb to work on my mill wouldnt it still be just a relavant? but thanks for being the time master
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