Does anyone have a print showing the bolt locations mounting the body to the frame? Any helps aporeciated. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Look up the Bob Drake catalogue. Go to body mount rubber pad kit. It shows rubber mount location which is also the bolt locations. If you have a hard copy catalogue it shows it clearly. However it does not give bolt length per location. The lengths vary but are not hard to figure. It will help you to ensure all bolts are removed before attempting to raise the body. If you are preparing to remove the body bolts it may help to go under the body and wire brush and lube up the caged nuts to ease removal of the fine thread bolts.
can you find the mistake on that drawing? go to the rear center line, move your eyes to the left, see 23 13/16 well that's wrong.
I am curious as to why there is a single pad on the rear cross member on the right side and none on the drivers side? When I removed the rusty rear floor section on my coupe I found this in the original configuration as well as the replacement kit as shown in the drawing you have posted.
I think that pad just sits there. Maybe to hold the floor pan up from rubbing? I can't figure why either. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
On my coupe there's a space of at least 1/4 to 3/8 in. between the top of that rubber pad and the floor pan. The same is true on the opposite side where there is no pad. Perhaps other models using this frame had a different floor pan configuration.
I thought a vibration may have revealed itself in an earlier model that featured this general body floor system. I can imagine Henry telling his engineers "fix it" and bam rubber cushion= done?
You could do that with some very careful planning and execution. The thing is determining the lifting points in relation to balancing The entire assembly. Also you would not want put any stress on the fenders. The front fenders in particular. The hood and inner fenders all land at the front of the fenders. without the chassis for support the front fenders could be over stressed and damaged. (kinked). If you have multiple overhead points to pick from it would be better. One central pick point would be more difficult. If the trunk lid is removed it would be helpful along with the hood as well. It would then be easier to add multiple attachment points to adjust the rigging points for level body lifting.
DON'T DO IT. Lifting the 40 body off the frame in one piece with the front fenders attached is a very bad idea. Too much can go wrong. THE CHANCES FOR IRREPAIRABLE DAMAGE IS HUGE. If your front fender and hood assembly accidently sags, drops or bends you will damage your grille, your cowl, inner cowl firewall and every piece of front end sheet metal. You will be crying in a world of hurt. When I lifted my 40 coupe body off the frame I first removed the hood, the rear bumper braces and bumpers and the rear fenders. Then the front grille. Then the front fenders with the inner fender panels still attached. I left the doors on and made sure they were closed tightly so as not to distort the door frame and hinges. I also left the trunk lid on. Then i lifted the body off. I did this all by myself with the engine out.. Even if you have a helper, it's not worth the risk. Don't take shortcuts as it will cost you in the end. Take plenty of photos as you go. Good luck.
I agree with disassembly of the front group and rear fenders as well. I removed the body of my 40 coupe after all the fenders hood and grill assembly were removed. I would not care to remove the body as complete unit. I was just accessing a method that could work if someone was determined to do it that way It seems Jato is of that frame of mind.