Oil pickup tube extention

So I put a Poly in what once held a "baby Hemi". The Hemi was a front sump oil pan. The Poly has mid sump pan. The oil pan now rests on the power steering unit, not completely but, I can hardly turn the steering wheel. The drain nut is unaccessible (I should have taken a picture). I was thinking of cutting out a piece of the pan and slide the part that is rubbing on the steering unit forward, no more than 2 inches. That would give me plenty of room for the steering unit.
However, the pickup tube would needs to be longer.

Have any of you extended the pickup tube at home? I've looked online for aftermarket oil pickups but, there's not much stuff for these Polys. I'm just concerned with blowing it out if I try to weld a piece of tubing or ending up in an other mess.

Thanks guys.

 

Get a sump, oil pickup and dipstick from an A Series engine out of a van as they have a rear sump. If you get one from a 318 you will be OK but if you use one from a 360 the radius at the rear main will not match. I used a 360 sump on my 318 poly and had to cut and shut the rear main section from a 318 sump into it. You will need the dipstick as it is real long and runs in a tube spot welded to the inside side of the sump. Dipstick tube location does not change.

 

I cut the 241 pan all up. I sectioned it as it was too deep and reversed the sump to make it a rear sump and lengthed the sump to get the capacity back. I also welded on a windage tray. I used a chevy pick up by welding the stub threaded end off the original pick up to the chevy pick up. I welded a piece of pipe thru the side and used a pipe compression fitting to install a chrome chevy dipstick.

 

So, as long as it's a 318, it should be less work, right.

 

The Hemi, along with its oil pan, is on its way to Australia, if its not there already. I was going to add 2 inches of pipe to the pickup tube but was worried I would blow out the pipe due to the thickness of the metal. I haven't found any info on doing this so, I thought welding it was a no no.

Thanks

 

I welded right at end of the pipe where I could see the inside and clean if required. I ran a wire brush in it and blew it out. It is still in service.

 

Engine swapper as well as racers have been slicing 'n dicing oil pans for decades.
You don't give exact details but it appears that you are working with a 318 style Poly..?
All of the 318 pans will interchange, car, truck, whatever, so look around. You might get lucky with oem parts. If not, moving the sump or making a new sump is just a sheet metal welding project. Be sure that the welds are solid and the inside of the pan is media blasted to remove scale. The pickup tube can also be 'fixed' as needed. In fact, if needed, you can use any flexible hose that is rated for the hot oil and solid mount the screen to the pan. You only need some means for the pump to suck the oil out of the sump, wherever the sump may be....
If you are cutting/welding the pickup tube then it will be important to clean out the tube after welding as the high welding temp will produce scale. Yes, an experienced/competent welder will have some tricks to get around some of the problems.
The most important aspect of the tube is that it has a free flowing id and no sharp 90° corners.

.

 

Yep. Sump, oil pickup and dipstick from a van 318 and it's a simple bolt up operation. I gather that your steering is fouling on the deepest part of the sump? If you could measure from the back face of your block to the centerline of your steering rod I could measure my sump and tell you how deep it is at that point.

 

Yep. Sump, oil pickup and dipstick from a van (OR PICK UP)

 

OOPS!! I didn't realise that pickups also ran the rear sumps. BTW we never got Dodge vans or pickups here in Australia so I was just lucky to be talking to a local Chrysler guy who had brought in 2 360's out of vans and was willing to sell the bits to me for my project.

 

Forgot, grab the dipstick tube also! @ least on the vans they are much longer also.

 

Well, yes and no. 318 Polys and 318 may have interchangable pans but, I'm putting it in a '54 Royal. A front sump would hit the crossmember, rear sump puts the oil pan on top of the power steering unit, and the mid sump, which I have, puts the drain plug right up against the steering unit and restricts steering. I sectioned the pan and shifted the drain plug section forward an inch and a half. My neighbor is taking on the tig welding task. He said its a cleaner weld and is easier to control the heat. He owns a machine shop and knows what he's talking about, I just trust him. He said he'd make sure it was a clean inside and residue free.

 

I'm doing the pan, he's doing the pickup tube.

 

I cut & spliced the oil pick-up tube in my daily driver 10 yrs ago to clear steering linkage. Did it using a gas torch, silver solder, & a sleeve over the joint. Got about 70K miles on it now, some on rough county roads. No problem. This is the way refrigeration lines are commonly done, they are subject to quite a bit of vibration in some cases & certainly high press. & heat.