Not sure the era but I being a budget guy I am forced to find used affordable stuff. I found a complete 70's-80's built hilborn stack injected 354 that a guy had in his garage for 20 years. He said it was an 800 horse motor. It has connecting rods that were re-enforced with metal welded to the sides and then heat treated after, dig those kooky main caps!! Supposedly it has a crower 600 lift cam with stock ported heads with stainless valves. I'm going to strap an 871 bowers to it and hope it doesn't go KABOOM!! I wonder if I should change the caps to 4 bolt or just run it. I would love some racers opinions!
Those were quality performance upgrades from the period that motor was built. It may have to much compression for a blower. Probably would run well with a healthy multi carb set up.
Nice! Strapped mains and boxed steel rods were more common in the 60's and then faded away in the 70's when 'better' products came to the marketplace. If it ran, or was intended to run, with injection then you likely have some serious compression. Any external boost would cause it to self destruct quickly. Don't waste it. .
Is this a 3NE56,NE56 or CE56 block? The 3NE56 is the hi performance block for the Chrysler 300 B series cars . If the heads are matching to this block they are desireable and hard to find .
Posts like this...always give me a CHUCKLE..."Being a Budget Guy"..hahahahah I guess his budget and other budget...are WAY DIFFERENT !!!!! affordabe stuff and Hemi....don't belong in the same paragraph....Just One Mans Opinion
That is quite a find, I share the opinion of others on the compression issue. You might want to be in the 6 to 1 range, with that blower and displacement. You can always speed up the blower some to compensate. The other thing to mindful of, is total tooth count on your drive ratio, and making sure you can get a belt to fit. We used a 57" belt that was standard for blower to crank centerline on the early Hemi engines. I would do some serious research before buying pistons and re-balancing the engine.
^^^what Marty said... It is not just a bolt-it-on and go like hell kinda deal. The assembly needs to be disassembled and fully checked to make sure that all is right. Buying new pistons is easy, every custom shop has them for about $1k, but the rest of the package has to be rebuilt around the amount of boost you plan to generate. If the work on the rods and caps is well done then I'd work with/around them. Kerry runs a blown 354, perhaps he'll jump in. .
Well every other race engine i looked at recently was around $8000 WITHOUT injection and this one is $3000 with injection. However if I'm going to need to rebuild the entire thing then you are right, maybe not a good deal!!
I want to strap a bowers blower with a 4 port and race the crap out of my willys!!! NO STREET DRIVING!! I only have these pics for now, I'm going to pick up the engine in a day or two, then I can see first hand. It looks like I may have to leave the hilborn stack injector on the 354 and figure something else out for my blower.
If that engine is a proven combination a newer cam setup just might make enough power with the injection to give you a tingle in your shorts without the blower. That would save a complete rebuild with new pistons, rebalance and whatever else needs to be replaced for the blower setup. If you've never had short wheelbase racer before that Willys with the Chrysler could "entertain" you for awhile. Frank
not knowing the compression ratio makes it harder if you run alcohol you could run the blower and adjust the drive ratio to get the boost you want
I agree with Fab32, Why not put the injectors back on and put that in your Willys? You know, there were LOTS of A/G and B/G cars running back in the day, they werent all blown. With a modern cam and tires, it should go nines in a Willys, just how much do you need?
X3 If it was built serious enough back in the day to have injectors,strapped main caps,and boxed rods,it was one hell of a serious motor. Just check it over,reassemble it and run it! Scott Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I'm only lookin to go in the 9's but I just love the blower look!! Since I have the blower already I'll just start shopping for 392 parts to build a blown motor and that can be my backup Bullet if the injected one goes kaboom!
I would rebuild it to check everything so you know what you have. A set of gaskets is cheap insurance. I personally would also replace the rods with a set of modern H-beams - again cheap insurance. You will know what you have, and it would be bulletproof. Then you could decide what to do with it.
Nice find, I would like to know if the block has been filled and also the bore of it, it also looks like the crank may have been blown a time or two from the marks on it. If it was an 800HP motor from several decades ago I am guessing that it was a fuel motor with the injection setup and pump that is shown.
In the early '60s we ran a blown 392 Hemi in our AA/D. We learned a lot over a three year period about the engines. Boxing the rods then having them checked and rebalanced was necessary until we came up with enough money to buy real quality aftermarket stuff. We never tried the straps on the main caps but did buy a one piece main girdle and had it align bored to the block. We used to buy forged pistons from Ford cheap and ran them. After a few passes the skirts would crack and we drilled a stop hole in the end and ran them until they melted. When you pulled the spark plugs after a pass and they looked like they had been sprayed with Aluminum paint it was a sure sign you were running lean. It was fun being young and dumb and willing to sleep in the truck and eat concession stand Hot Dogs just to keep the car running.
The nozzle size and and the number of the first digit on the front of of the pump, will go a long way in determining what type of fuel this engine was run on. If it was a high percent nitro engine, the 1st number would likely a (1), and a (0) pump as shown is normally only good enough for methanol. At least that is what I remember.
Yea good thought on the number and nozzle size, do you remember or know if that is true for both type of pumps, Distributor driven or cam driven pumps or just the cam driven ones
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