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Projects 36-taildragger.....Made in Sweden

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by Kenneth31coupe, Mar 17, 2013.

  1. Thanks a lot

    You are very welcome.Pleased to be at you´r service.

    Thanks. Stay tuned.

    I´m working after the motto "think twice, cut once ";).You are right about the beltline helps keeping the roof in shape when welding and one more reason for laying the cut there is that grinding and smoothing that area after welding is a lot easier than in the middle of the panels.

    Thanks

    That´s the only positive thing about the winters.Love the time in the garage.


    Thanks
    We are allways at full speed.;)
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. heyitsnate
    Joined: Apr 8, 2004
    Posts: 1,750

    heyitsnate
    Member

  3. Marten
    Joined: Jan 27, 2007
    Posts: 171

    Marten
    Member

    I keep on looking for a friend with your kinda skills, I would be in Hotrod Heaven.All my dreams would come to reality...........and there are so many dreams!
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  4. Thanks Nate

    Thanks Kip

    I can be your friend if you want.:)
     
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  5. Took her out today to get a better look from distance and daylight.Here is the new profile.Think I´m satisfied with the look.


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Now it´s time to stitch it all together again.Cut the front of the door top in a step just to keep the perimeter radius aligned with the a-pillar and to get a smooth radius on the inside against the window.Cut some slots in it so I can bend it to get the radius smooth.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Did the same with the rear .
    [​IMG]

    Here you get an idea of the end result. Still have to connect the door top in the middle with a new piece.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2014
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  6. 53chevtrev
    Joined: Jul 26, 2011
    Posts: 403

    53chevtrev
    Member
    from Langley BC

    Really dig the way you did your chop. Perfect proportions!
     
  7. Wensum Valley Rods
    Joined: Oct 13, 2008
    Posts: 289

    Wensum Valley Rods
    Member
    from England

    Impressive stuff Kenneth. Profile looks really good.

    Paul.
     
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  8. heyitsnate
    Joined: Apr 8, 2004
    Posts: 1,750

    heyitsnate
    Member

    yes yes yes! love the profile kenneth. not much progress on my part, you actually inspired me to finish a bike project to sell to a customer, so i can finally buy a pullmax. until then, its hammerforms and corking tools....very time consuming.
     
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  9. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,970

    Finnrodder
    Member
    from Finland

    Looks great!
    That profile looks pretty sweet.
     
  10. Sledge
    Joined: Feb 5, 2008
    Posts: 1,731

    Sledge
    Member
    from Nor Cal

    Nice Chop!
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  11. Thanks Trev.Have been thinking of this for a long time studying other cars and even got some nice pics from Time Bomb John here on Hamb how he did on his 35.Picked up a few tricks here and there made it to this.

    Hey Nate.That explaines why I can´t find any progress posts from yours.Hope you find a nice one with a lot of tools.

    Thanks man.


    Thanks Kevan.
     
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  12. devilscustom
    Joined: Feb 22, 2007
    Posts: 289

    devilscustom
    Member
    from Sweden

    Looking really good :cool:
     
  13. Beautiful work Kenneth!:cool:

    Love the way you're approaching this, especially how you're keeping the main part of the rear roof/pillar area seam free. I'm taking notes for sure;):D

    Bear:)
     
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  14. Marten
    Joined: Jan 27, 2007
    Posts: 171

    Marten
    Member

    @Kenneth:Yes! haha..had this plan for several years, when my car is done to drive up to Sweden. To visit A-bombers or Jokers-show (last one was last year). One day...
     
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  15. Zed
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 952

    Zed
    Member
    from FRANCE

    amazing skills ! thanks for sharing ;)
     
  16. Wellsville
    Joined: Apr 19, 2001
    Posts: 97

    Wellsville
    Member
    from Sweden

    Hey,, what he says,, goes for me too!!! :)
     
  17. Thanks a lot guys
     
  18. telekenfun
    Joined: Mar 9, 2010
    Posts: 250

    telekenfun
    Member

    Kenneth, Great job on your chop! I Like the cuts you made to save the length of the turret and still keep the crown in the top. Very well thought out, minimal cuts and welds to accomplish the ideal profile. Now I'm looking forward to seeing how you close-up the rear window. Will you widen the upper or narrow the lower parts? Also, are going to fill the top or remake the soft insert? Thanks for your posts on this monumental project. Best Regards and Good Luck with all your endeavors, KB aka telekenfun.
     
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  19. Hey KB.
    Still thinking about the rear window but it leans towards narrowing the lower part.Widening the upper part takes a lot more job in widening the inner structure for the roll down window.The top will be filled. First I was thinking of a soft insert but the more I was tinking of it the more I was convinced that a filled top is what a guy in the late 40´s would have done.Building a kustom is a little bit like making the car you starts with look more expensive and luxurios than it does from stock, therefore I will fill the top.
     
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  20. telekenfun
    Joined: Mar 9, 2010
    Posts: 250

    telekenfun
    Member

    Kenneth, On my chop, I left the rear window the stock heighth on my 5 window with the same sail panel cut line as you did. But I did lower all my sills by 3/4". However,I didn't cut upward around the quarter window like you have unfortunately. I think that was the key to your being able to keep a crown to the top. I'm thinking now about cutting and adding those crescent shaped slivers like you have to drop the very rear of my top for more crown as well. I filled my top, then the top gained too much expanse so I was pressed to go back too the insert. It's doubtful that a 3 window would suffer that appearance. I know you are building to a ridgid traditional style so this may not be for you, but I finally resolved to use a sun roof (God forbid, I know I'll lose a lot of you with that one) but I found a huge 99 Grand Prix unit that had the arch and curved corners to almost perfectly mimics shape and look of the original insert. It looks very good and appropriate and functional as well because it retracts into the back of the top. I think it is a better alternative in my case to the leak prone soft top even if it blows the traditional criteria.With the windshield open, rear window down and the top open it is almost like a topless with a roll bar.
    But back to the rear window, the regulator mechanism and glass tracks will not need to be modified if you go wider. You'll only need to widen the top section by cutting at the very center and moving the tops sideways.(I hope you saved a piece of the section you cut off to insert there in the middle, but YOU could make it easily), then cut the bottom off the original glass to still have it open all the way. However if you go narrower you will need to relocate the window channels and make modifications to the regulator to have the glass fully retract. I have adapted an electric opener motor to mine from the same GP so I don't have to reach around to crank it open. However, the look from rear is also of great importance so I'm sure you're thinking about the visual as well. Would the wider create too much of a "mail slot" appearance.
    The more you think about all this stuff, the closer you get to what you really want. Keep it up, you're doing great!
    Best Regards and Good Luck with all your endeavors, KB.
     
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  21. Have been busy the last two weeks with a lot of work so I haven´t done anything to the 36 but things starts to slow down now and it wasn´t long before I was back in the garage. Since I don´t have any donor parts I have to make all the filling pieces my self.Made a new piece for the driprail.


    [​IMG]

    Then I desided to cut out the ugly factory joint and make a new piece to cover it up.
    [​IMG]
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    Here it is tacked in and the door is also filled.Forgot to take pics when making the doors, was too excited getin back to this:)
    [​IMG]

    Now it´s time for the rear window.
    [​IMG]

    Been thinking of it the last few weeks and been sitting and looking at it for several times. Came up with the dessision to cut out the lower corners and cut some slots bouth in lower and upper part so I can make a smooth radius
    [​IMG]

    Moved the cut out corner about 3/8" towards the center to make the radius line up in a smooth curve. Here you can see in the slots how I have shaped the radius.
    [​IMG]

    To cover up the ugly gaps I cut out a bigger part and made a new patch to fill it up.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2014
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  22. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 9,253

    brady1929
    Member

  23. 32coop
    Joined: Apr 20, 2009
    Posts: 131

    32coop
    Member
    from Australia

    Looking great
     
  24. hallrods
    Joined: Feb 21, 2012
    Posts: 1,238

    hallrods
    Member

  25. Looks great Kenneth. The top is coming along nicely.
     
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  26. bengeltiger
    Joined: Mar 3, 2012
    Posts: 469

    bengeltiger
    Member

    Nice work. Thanks for the detail!

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  27. Sledge
    Joined: Feb 5, 2008
    Posts: 1,731

    Sledge
    Member
    from Nor Cal

    More nice work. looking good! I like that you kept the chopped back window in the stock position and didn't drop it closer to the beltline. I did the same with mine!
     
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  28. J.B.
    Joined: Jan 7, 2005
    Posts: 1,246

    J.B.
    Member
    from Sweden

    Looks great, Kenneth! Wonderful work on that rear window.
     
  29. brian55lvr
    Joined: Oct 24, 2010
    Posts: 603

    brian55lvr
    Member
    from ma

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