Rust busting - a new way

One of my former bosses said I had lead in my a_ _, guess I should have ate more oranges and more lime in the coronas.
Going to try the citric acid stuff, can't hurt tried all the other and still is alot of work.

 

In my original post I mentioned my concern about cold weather. I put two new pieces of rusty stuff in the jar yesterday to see how it works in the cold. Last night it dropped down to 23 degrees. This morning the jar was full of a very light slush. Too soon to see progress on the rust removal front, but I'm pleased resistance to freezing. Its supposed to drop to 20 tomorrow with a high of only 33 and the rest of the week is the same. I'll check it tomorrow.
Norm

 

You can buy white vinegar at Sam's Club in a 55 Gallon drum. Not sure of the price.

 

I love vinegar on Fish n Chips,lol Gaz!

 

I've always used vinegar and the price is right. Coca Cola works great too.

CRUISER

 

Muriatic acid is another name for hydrochloric acid.

 

Stumble on a thread on muriatic acid and thought those thinking about using it should read it. Like I said I don't anything about it, but now I know enough. I'm hoping this patch works.
Norm

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=813794&highlight=muriatic

 

Is there a particular ratio of baking soda to water to neutralize the acids after effects?

 

Soap and water works well.

 

That's interesting, I wonder what strength it is.

 

I use this citric acid, 4 bags 25kg to 1000 litres, have had the same mix for over a year and cleaned a lot of panels, starting to fade now and take longer so will use this tank as a initial dip then another clean tank for finishing. Hose off residue or presure wash is best especially inside door panels etc, dry then a wipe or spray with phosphoric acid and it can sit for months in the shed as is. Sometimes the mix starts to go mouldy or stagnant, throw a litre of Janola bleach in, good as gold. I wouldnt advise using acid on any cast parts that come under stress, front axles, lifting hooks etc on account of electrolysis, I did read on here a while ago about the causes and reactions with the metal of this but cant find it again.
this process removes rust really well, is safe as you can find and reasonably fast, a very rusty panel will take 1-2 days, heavy flakey rust maybe a week with a clean wash half way thru, as said before doesnt remove grease orgood paint but will soften most old primer enough to be power washed off to bare metal. I repair the panel straight out of the dip once washed and good to tig weld. I even drop all my original bolts and nuts etc in for a few days and it cleans them up excellent, a rinse a quick buff and paint them in zinc then back on the car

 

Are you using 25kg total with 1000 liters of water? Or four 25kg bags with 1000 liters of water?

 

Also 1-2oz of orange oil added,use in daytime.

 

Beater40
Thanks for your input on the longevity of the mix. I, also would like a clarification on mix ratio. Can you tell us what kind of bleach "Janola bleach" is?
On the freezing front, 20 degrees last night and still slushy and it seems to be removing rust. Pictures to follow.
Norm

 

Must be a down under brand. http://www.janola.co.nz/

Click on the big bottle in the center.

 

I always used Metalprep, which was a phosphoric acid based product. I liked it because it would stabilize the iron oxide in the little pockets that weren't removed by sanding by turning it into a hard stable phosphate compound . My son has some 47 international fenders that have some surface rust on them, and I am going to give the citric acid a try.
When you think of it, Coca Cola is a blend of phosphoric and citric acid, with other additives, and I can't see why it wouldn't work as a mild rust remover. It would be a lot cheaper than the alternatives.
Bob

 

The following before and after pictures show some '30's spring parts that have been in the mix for 3 days and a model A roof bracket thats been soaking for 1 1/2 days. sorry, the before picture is a mating part that wouldn't fit the jar, but was in the same condition. These parts have been in a slushy mixture in sub freezing temps almost the whole time. I'm coming to the conclusion that temperatures have minimal effect on how it works. The temps are going to dip to 15 degrees tonight. I'll see if it freezes.
Norm

 

My memories from chemistry class tell me that the reaction speed doubles with each 10 degree increase in temperature. Not sure if that was 10 degrees F or C though.

 

Someone posted a picture of Evaporust earlier.
Anyone know if it is citric acid?
It works good but is expensive.

 

Yes, I like it also. Works great but am also interested in 'home-brewed' alternatives. Will be watching for an answer too.

 

I have a model a dash I'm going to try this on. I ordered a lb off flea bay. That should be enough for 2-3 gallons. Depending on how well it comes out I have a pile of suspension parts that will get a dip. I'll post some pics when the powder get in and I get started

Sent from my LG-P769 using H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Day four for the spring parts and two and a half for the bracket. The mix seems to become semi solid at about 20-22 degrees and as far as I can tell still works pretty well. Four days seems to be about what it takes for "normal" rust. That's about a third of the time it took with molasses. A far cry from what we started with.
Norm

 

Now that I'm done with the testing I've got to think about when to make a tank full of this stuff. I've got at least a load of stuff I really want to clean, but these single digit temperatures have me spooked. Its rather early in the season for temps this cold. January and February are normally the coldest months. I do have a stock tank heater, but will it be enough if it gets down to "0". Anyone out there know? Then when I pull the parts out of the tank and wash them down? I can wait a few days or a week until it gets above forty, but thats still damn cold when you're washing down parts with a hose. Especially when you're a wuss. Choices, choices,choices..........
Norm

 

I would rather Sand Blast & Spray with KBS Rust Proofing. They have some great products.

 

thats 3-4 25kg bags to 1000 litres, or if you want a small sample, about a kg to 20litres is handy in the shed. I had a tank sprung a leak, cause it was old and brittle not from acid reaction and it did eat into the cement floor a bit and stained it also, something to think of. I had it in a small leanto shed and never had any noticable fumes. If you want to neutralize the acid, add some lime, did this by mistake in a small container and it didnt clean any parts after that

 

Hey,that looks great. Looks like a Chevy fender too.

 

George, Redi-Strip in Delta do the electrolytic removal, although I dont have a lot of trust in them. I paid to have my frame done, and it looked great, until I flipped it over and found the area they missed with the "sand blasting".

 

the Janola bleach is just a household chlorine bleach, will try take a couple before and after pics of the dipping

 

Hello Norson
I used citric acid granules found in a grocery store in the baking section. Little canisters just like you'd buy pepper in.
Cheap as, and I first tried the disc rotors from my Jag front end. Since, I've used a tub or 2 for doing panel braces, window surrounds, etc. All turn out clean after a week in the bath. A little agitation with a dunny brush every 2nd day or so, pull 'em, wash 'em with a garden hose. Then I either drop the parts in a tub with a little baking soda added (acid + base = salt + water) then the parts are put in a vise, heated with a primus torch to remove the moisture, then treated with stuff we have down under called "Ranex rust buster" a phosphoric treatment. I have parts in the garage treated 2 years ago, still dull grey and no cancer.







cheers Mudgy

 

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